Tell me about automotive air conditioning...

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I used the DIY kit successfully, but I made sure I bought a can with pure R-134a, not stop leaks or oils.

It sure can be done and only the "do it by the book" crowd seems to have a problem with it. Yeah, there is a chance to screw it up, but that chance is there with every single job, even an oil change.
Should we all stop working on our cars because of the fear of failure?
 
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This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.


You purge the line just before making the connection.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.


You purge the line just before making the connection.

and what of the air that has displaced the refrigerant in the system?
 
Compressors, condensers, etc do eventually wear out. In most cases it just needs a simple recharge. $25-$40 for a r134 with a gauge is a small price to pay instead of some shop charging you $200 for an inspection to tell you it's gonna be $800 for a compressor and labor. I'm sure people have had compressors, dryers and so on go bad on them. Any car I've owned after 2000 has never needed anything other than a recharge and a minimal amount at that. I work on my own cars though. I treat everything from cheapest to most expensive. Like my car overheats, I look at coolant level, radiator cap and thermostat first with a coolant flush. Usually it's one of those things.

AC should come out fast, if everything is 100% ac should start blowing cold pretty quick. The fan in most cars comes on when the actual ac is on at idle so the air will blow cold within a minute. Than cycle off if coolant temp and ac pressure levels change. At least in my last few cars applications.
 
Originally Posted By: mehullica
Barrier hoses leak 1-2 ounces a year. Have the system evacuated,vacuumed, & recharged.



That can't be a hard number, To many vehicles go 12-15 years without any servicing & still freeze you out.
 
Originally Posted By: E150GT

and what of the air that has displaced the refrigerant in the system?


Air does not and cannot displace the refrigerant lost in the system because the system itself has a much higher than atmospheric pressure. Air simply cannot enter it, unless all pressure is lost.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
ALL auto air conditioning systems slowly leak. They have a belt-driven compressor which means they have a rotating shaft seal... and that type of seal is NEVER perfect. It will probably be fine with a recharge.


Originally Posted By: Chris142
All systems leak. Some leak more than others. 15 years is a great run for an ac system. Most of the cars I see are about 5 yrs old and need a recharge. Should add a splash of oil too.


Originally Posted By: KrisZ
No automotive AC system is 100% sealed, it is normal to need a re-charge after so many years. It can be DIY-ed, which will get you a lot of flack in here. But whatever you do, do not add or let anyone else add stop leak to the system.


Can we get these quotes gold plated and automatically added to every post on the site referencing Automotive A/C? The amount of times I see Bubba espousing how his system "still dun blows cold after 20 years and never leaks nothin' so you dun should have to get yers fixed if it ain't cold".

A thousand years ago when systems took several kilos of R12, there was enough gas in the system to allow for a considerable leakage and still perform adequately. Now with r134a (as already said, a much smaller molecule) and considerably smaller refrigerant charges (my wifes car is half a kilo +/- 25g and that is 10 years old, the charges get smaller every revision) you can suffer a much smaller loss before you degrade performance, but worse severely impact oil circulation.

All automotive systems leak, there are no exceptions. These days with low charge systems you should really be having a re-gas done every 2-3 years. That is nothing more than weigh out the charge and weigh in the right charge. By the time you've noticed a degradation in cooling you've already reached a refrigerant level that will impact oil circulation, resulting in more oil stuck in the evaporator and less oil in the compressor. That accelerates seal, bearing and piston wear and exacerbates the problem.

Systems have rotary seals, o-rings, rubber hoses and in Fords case joints designed to last about the warranty period. Every one of those items *is* a leak source and they *all* leak *all* the time. Those leaks add up to the overall system leak rate. They all increase as they age (particularly the rotary seal).

If your car is more than 5 years old, get the charge pulled and weighed. I absolutely *guarantee* it'll be less than went in at the factory. Actually, I guarantee it'll be less if it's a year old, but you need accurate gear to measure that sort of loss.

You change your oil regularly. Maintain your A/C the same way and it'll probably last as long as the rest of the car.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Great post Brad_C.


+1
However, I don't necessarily agree with the recommendation to evacuate and re-charge ever 2-3 years. Why? Because most AC shops will not spend the time to clean up all the connections and purge the lines (purging might even be against the EPA or the certification), so the chances of introducing air and moisture to the system are increased.

If you have a trusted shop and live in hot and humid climate, or better yet you have the equipment and can DIY, it might be worthwhile to evacuate and re-charge periodically, but overall, leaving the system alone and charging only when the performance loss is noticeable, is a perfectly acceptable practice.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.


You purge the line just before making the connection.

How is that done? I don't see any reference to doing so in the instructions I've seen online.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Great post Brad_C.


+1
However, I don't necessarily agree with the recommendation to evacuate and re-charge ever 2-3 years. Why? Because most AC shops will not spend the time to clean up all the connections and purge the lines (purging might even be against the EPA or the certification), so the chances of introducing air and moisture to the system are increased.

If you have a trusted shop and live in hot and humid climate, or better yet you have the equipment and can DIY, it might be worthwhile to evacuate and re-charge periodically, but overall, leaving the system alone and charging only when the performance loss is noticeable, is a perfectly acceptable practice.


It depends on the type of a/c machine they use. Most recycling machines evac the system, pull a vacuum and recharge. You only have to connect the lines 1 time. Our machine even compensates the charge amount to account for the refrigerant that it takes to fill the vacuumed hoses.
 
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.


You purge the line just before making the connection.

How is that done? I don't see any reference to doing so in the instructions I've seen online.


That is a good question. You would have to stick something in the connector to open the valve, then give it a shot of refrigerant.
 
Originally Posted By: AVB
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
This just occurred to me: What happens to the volume of air that's in the hose as the refrigerant is first shot in there? Don't these systems have to be air-free?

No idea, just wondering out loud.


You purge the line just before making the connection.

How is that done? I don't see any reference to doing so in the instructions I've seen online.


That is a good question. You would have to stick something in the connector to open the valve, then give it a shot of refrigerant.


You open the valve, that screws into the refrigerant can, a little bit, let it vent for a second and then connect the hose to the low side port, close the valve.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Let's not also forget the pressure relif valve on some compressors that can vent under extremes. Another way to lose refrigerant.


Most of those are not a "relief valve" as such rather than a burst disc. You *know* if it goes off and you don't just lose a bit of refrigerant. You lose all of it (and all of the oil it carries with it at high velocity). Compressor manuals all have procedures for checking oil levels, so if you do have a catastrophic leak you want to correct that before you seal it up the final time. Often that requires a charge up, run under set conditions, evacuate and re-check oil levels. Again, if you are doing it. Do it right.

As for all the questions on purging and procedure. If your A/C place is that bad that they don't do a bit of prep (clean the connectors) or know how to appropriately ensure there is no air ingress, then you need to be looking elsewhere or buy the tools and learn to do it *properly* yourself.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
You open the valve, that screws into the refrigerant can, a little bit, let it vent for a second and then connect the hose to the low side port, close the valve.

Isn't that just letting pressure out of the can? I'm not seeing how doing so purges the air out of the line.
 
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