Tacoma Access Cab?

I am a big fan of the 4WD manual transmission Tacoma. In 2016, when I was truck shopping, it was my first choice, but I wanted more margin for towing, and got the Tundra instead. A buddy got one a few years ago, on my recommendation, and he loves it.

That said, @supton , I think you need a 2004-2007 Volvo XC70. AWD. Safe. Rust resistant. A modest 3,500# tow capacity. It is perfect for your mission profile, as described. Find one with complete maintenance records, including the PCV system.
As much as I like the P2 platform, I thought their AWD systems were a little cantankerous?
 
As much as I like the P2 platform, I thought their AWD systems were a little cantankerous?
I wouldn’t call it cantankerous. I would say that it is commonly neglected, to the detriment of the car and the owner’s wallet.

The AWD system is simple a front differential sends power to a rear driveshaft. The rear differential sends power to both rear wheels. 2001-2002 P2 used a viscous clutch between the driveshaft and rear differential, and you could burn it out if you ran tires with different tread depth. No longer a replaceable part. I’ve been diligent with tire replacements on ours, and the viscous coupling still works.

2003-2007 used a Haldex clutch - sensors detect the slip, then the Differential Electronic Module (DEM) runs a tiny pump in the Haldex unit, that engages the clutch. The Haldex unit has a filter and fluid that can be changed. The DEM can be damaged by water intrusion, but parts are still available. It’s a reliable system, and still used on current cars. Other manufacturers use the system. You can replace the DEM, or pump, as needed. My R has the Haldex, the DEM and pump are original, and it has new fluid and filter, along with an aftermarket DEM protection plate.

The front differential, known as an “angle gear” was a poorly maintained part. It takes 700 ml of 75w90 gear oil. No specified fluid change interval. The seals can wear out, and fluid then leaks, leading to unit failure. Checking them once in a while prevents that. I have removed, and re-sealed, the angle gears on all the Volvos I own. I took the extra step of adding a magnetic drain plug when doing the work. I threaded the case on the XC, and when I did it on the R, I used a TimeSert for threads, just for the durability of having steel threads. I wrote about it in this forum years ago.

https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?29700-Angle-Gear-sealing-and-modification/page2

Our 2002 XC still has the original angle gear. The AWD still works. The car has 300,000 miles. Not really cantankerous if you pay attention to the system, but paying attention to anything on a car is not common among most Volvo owners, who tend to be non-car people.
 
I wouldn’t call it cantankerous. I would say that it is commonly neglected, to the detriment of the car and the owner’s wallet.

The AWD system is simple a front differential sends power to a rear driveshaft. The rear differential sends power to both rear wheels. 2001-2002 P2 used a viscous clutch between the driveshaft and rear differential, and you could burn it out if you ran tires with different tread depth. No longer a replaceable part. I’ve been diligent with tire replacements on ours, and the viscous coupling still works.

2003-2007 used a Haldex clutch - sensors detect the slip, then the Differential Electronic Module (DEM) runs a tiny pump in the Haldex unit, that engages the clutch. The Haldex unit has a filter and fluid that can be changed. The DEM can be damaged by water intrusion, but parts are still available. It’s a reliable system, and still used on current cars. Other manufacturers use the system. You can replace the DEM, or pump, as needed. My R has the Haldex, the DEM and pump are original, and it has new fluid and filter, along with an aftermarket DEM protection plate.

The front differential, known as an “angle gear” was a poorly maintained part. It takes 700 ml of 75w90 gear oil. No specified fluid change interval. The seals can wear out, and fluid then leaks, leading to unit failure. Checking them once in a while prevents that. I have removed, and re-sealed, the angle gears on all the Volvos I own. I took the extra step of adding a magnetic drain plug when doing the work. I threaded the case on the XC, and when I did it on the R, I used a TimeSert for threads, just for the durability of having steel threads. I wrote about it in this forum years ago.

https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?29700-Angle-Gear-sealing-and-modification/page2

Our 2002 XC still has the original angle gear. The AWD still works. The car has 300,000 miles. Not really cantankerous if you pay attention to the system, but paying attention to anything on a car is not common among most Volvo owners, who tend to be non-car people.
The wife’s 2002 S60 has been a great car for us. No rust. Runs like a top. I should look into an XC70 for a replacement to the Blazer when the time comes.

I did like the Subaru Forester Wilderness edition. Seems comparable to what I have and it can tow either 3 or 3.5k lbs. Come to find out, the trailer needed breaks. I’m no longer interested.

Does the XC need trailer brakes in order to tow 3.5k?
 
Does the XC need trailer brakes in order to tow 3.5k?
First, what I’ve seen is 3,300lb for the rating. Maybe it varies a bit year to year, and what’s a
Second, IMO you’d have to be crazy to pull a 3k trailer by a 4k car without brakes…. I did it with my Tundra, which was on the other side of 6k I think, and with just a 1,600lb trailer I knew it was back there (forgot about it in some rush hour traffic, thankfully I was far from being in over my head, just a quick “oh the brakes are a bit off…” and took a bit easier from there). The Volvo may have some excellent brakes but 3k has a bit of push and shove when it wants to.

Lastly, state law may require brakes, regardless of what the manual says. In my case, my sub 3k GVWR trailer was legal because it was less than 40% of my tow vehicle’s GVWR (something like that) and less than 3k (going off memory here). Once I read up on it, I became very surprised at how many trailers are sold sans brakes, but it explained why so many are rated for 2,990lb (over 3k and it’s required).
 
First, what I’ve seen is 3,300lb for the rating. Maybe it varies a bit year to year, and what’s a
Second, IMO you’d have to be crazy to pull a 3k trailer by a 4k car without brakes…. I did it with my Tundra, which was on the other side of 6k I think, and with just a 1,600lb trailer I knew it was back there (forgot about it in some rush hour traffic, thankfully I was far from being in over my head, just a quick “oh the brakes are a bit off…” and took a bit easier from there). The Volvo may have some excellent brakes but 3k has a bit of push and shove when it wants to.

Lastly, state law may require brakes, regardless of what the manual says. In my case, my sub 3k GVWR trailer was legal because it was less than 40% of my tow vehicle’s GVWR (something like that) and less than 3k (going off memory here). Once I read up on it, I became very surprised at how many trailers are sold sans brakes, but it explained why so many are rated for 2,990lb (over 3k and it’s required).
The main thing I’d tow is a load of firewood with that vehicle. Maybe 1500-2000 lbs at most. We have the 4Runner for anything else.

The Forester supposedly in all trims is only rated at 1000 lbs for trailers without brakes. I haven’t really looked into it anymore because they don’t interest me.
 
The main thing I’d tow is a load of firewood with that vehicle. Maybe 1500-2000 lbs at most. We have the 4Runner for anything else.

The Forester supposedly in all trims is only rated at 1000 lbs for trailers without brakes. I haven’t really looked into it anymore because they don’t interest me.
Ah. Watch tongue weight, keep speed low, and pretend to be European. Then you can tow whatever you want.
 
I vote XC70, or even FWD V70 if you don't need AWD. The sound of a 2.5L 5-pot Volvo is absolutely glorious. Not many engines compare for me. I like it even more than the Volkswagen 2.8/3.2L VR6 or 4.0L W8 sound. (I'm a JDM boy, so it hurts to admit that best sounding engines aren't Japanese... I do love the VQ though.)

That said - not many OBD2 readers can properly diagnose a Volvo. VIDA/DICE is a great option, but requires a laptop. iCarsoft V2 for Volvo/Saab is also good. Anyone know any other good Volvo diagnostic softwares or tools?
 
I vote XC70, or even FWD V70 if you don't need AWD. The sound of a 2.5L 5-pot Volvo is absolutely glorious. Not many engines compare for me. I like it even more than the Volkswagen 2.8/3.2L VR6 or 4.0L W8 sound. (I'm a JDM boy, so it hurts to admit that best sounding engines aren't Japanese... I do love the VQ though.)

That said - not many OBD2 readers can properly diagnose a Volvo. VIDA/DICE is a great option, but requires a laptop. iCarsoft V2 for Volvo/Saab is also good. Anyone know any other good Volvo diagnostic softwares or tools?
Been a while since I looked, but IIRC a google search will find the answer. Foxtrot 530? going off memory here.

Tempted to email about a 300kmile one... how bad could it be? I had plans to take my Camry past 300k, took my VW past 300k...
 
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