I use Synthetic (PP, PU, SynPower, M1, Amsoil) in winter and Dino (Chevron, PYB, GTX, MC) in summer. Change oil twice a year (7500 OCI). I also add a 1/4 can of MoS2 and 1/4 Qt G-Oil (a Group 5 ester) for better protection.
Switched from Synth to Regular oil.
- Thread starter thunderchild
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Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My RX has a 5qt sump, and a relatively small oil filter. I`m not interested in an extended drain for this vehicle. Wife`s car (her old one anyway) had something like a 7-10 qt sump and a fleece oil filter. Much better scenario for a long drain interval. How many uoa`s on Conventional oil have we seen on here where some Guy`s even comment how it looks just as good, and even sometimes better than a Synthetic uoa? (givin a reasonable oci of course) I never go past 5,000 miles anyway.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
The current ILSAC GF-5 "resource conserving" oils must show a fuel mileage increase over a test STANDARD PAO true synthetic oil. I would hazard a guess that the OP mileage increase was due to a "greatly decreased" HTHS over the "too viscous" RT6. Also recall Your PP, RT6 and 5 ,QSUD and Most M1 are NOT true synthetic so there is only a tiny performance gap between a good group II+/ III/ V blend (your dino oil with FAE friction modifiers)" and a Group III up blend. They are all petroleum oils. and "conventional" is LONG dead in the PCMO realm.
forgetting rebates or discount codes, just the average monthly deal at autozone, advance, etc i costs on average for lets just say vwb (or similar) for 5 quarts and a fram orange can (or similar) of $21 or so, OR i can buy lets say 5 quarts of M1 EP (or similar) and a M1 filter (or similar) for $32 or less, plus icrease my oci. (please, for you that are politically correct, im not, so i hope you can understand my point in this post) I think its a no brainer. on a side note, i dont/wont run syn in my lawn equipment, but do in my vehicles.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
My info is correct as to what i have witnessed in my own vehicle. The oil prices have gone up here in Maryland the last time I bought oil. I will check WM this weekend to see if they have in fact gone down. My gas mileage average DID go from 24.6 or 7 to 26.1. I drive the same route with the same heavy foot. Nothing has changed. My "coolant" temp HAS gone down 2 ticks since I have started using the 5w30 instead of the 5w-40. These are MY observations on MY vehicle. YMMV.
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
My info is correct as to what i have witnessed in my own vehicle. The oil prices have gone up here in Maryland the last time I bought oil. I will check WM this weekend to see if they have in fact gone down. My gas mileage average DID go from 24.6 or 7 to 26.1. I drive the same route with the same heavy foot. Nothing has changed. My "coolant" temp HAS gone down 2 ticks since I have started using the 5w30 instead of the 5w-40. These are MY observations on MY vehicle. YMMV.
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I`v switched too, couldnt be happier. If it doesnt call for Synthetic, or has other issues i.e known sludge motor etc, no need for it. I`m using GTX, and VWB, runs terrific.
I used to use GTX in my Durango. Great oil that kept her in fine shape. I sold her and she was running like a clock when I did. She was on synthetic for a very short while.
I`v switched too, couldnt be happier. If it doesnt call for Synthetic, or has other issues i.e known sludge motor etc, no need for it. I`m using GTX, and VWB, runs terrific.
I used to use GTX in my Durango. Great oil that kept her in fine shape. I sold her and she was running like a clock when I did. She was on synthetic for a very short while.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
+1
+2
+3
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
+1
+2
+3
Originally Posted By: thunderchild
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
ok, considering that, ill assume you dont go over 3k on dino. and the cost is a mere $10 difference for the syn and your going 2k more, getting under the car less often, not to mention a "better" filter given its an oil change monthly special. doesnt it make sense in a way to just pay $10 more?
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
ok, considering that, ill assume you dont go over 3k on dino. and the cost is a mere $10 difference for the syn and your going 2k more, getting under the car less often, not to mention a "better" filter given its an oil change monthly special. doesnt it make sense in a way to just pay $10 more?
Actually I use P1 filters and plan on going 5K OCI's on the Dino. I have been reading here about how good the quality of the new dino's are. I believe with this PYB I can still keep my 5K OCI's. I change my own oil so I will be able to keep an eye on things.
Originally Posted By: thunderchild
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
Where's dnewton on this post.
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
Where's dnewton on this post.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My RX has a 5qt sump, and a relatively small oil filter. I`m not interested in an extended drain for this vehicle. Wife`s car (her old one anyway) had something like a 7-10 qt sump and a fleece oil filter. Much better scenario for a long drain interval. How many uoa`s on Conventional oil have we seen on here where some Guy`s even comment how it looks just as good, and even sometimes better than a Synthetic uoa? (givin a reasonable oci of course) I never go past 5,000 miles anyway.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
I agree with Lexus114-whatever works and makes them feel warm and fuzzy!!!-I use both dino and synthetic. Havoline in my Buick till it dies, dino is all its seen and it runs just fine on it. QSUD in the Corolla, cause when we bought it the previous owner used synthetic so we decided to stay with it even though he used M1, we like the QSUD better. I've settled on Maxlife for the Rav--seems to be just fine also, so with that being said I've got representation from all positions in the outfield--Left (syn), center (synblend) and right (dino)--How's that for an analogy.
______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 Havoline and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 VML and Wix filter
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
I agree with Lexus114-whatever works and makes them feel warm and fuzzy!!!-I use both dino and synthetic. Havoline in my Buick till it dies, dino is all its seen and it runs just fine on it. QSUD in the Corolla, cause when we bought it the previous owner used synthetic so we decided to stay with it even though he used M1, we like the QSUD better. I've settled on Maxlife for the Rav--seems to be just fine also, so with that being said I've got representation from all positions in the outfield--Left (syn), center (synblend) and right (dino)--How's that for an analogy.
______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 Havoline and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 VML and Wix filter
Originally Posted By: Nodak
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My RX has a 5qt sump, and a relatively small oil filter. I`m not interested in an extended drain for this vehicle. Wife`s car (her old one anyway) had something like a 7-10 qt sump and a fleece oil filter. Much better scenario for a long drain interval. How many uoa`s on Conventional oil have we seen on here where some Guy`s even comment how it looks just as good, and even sometimes better than a Synthetic uoa? (givin a reasonable oci of course) I never go past 5,000 miles anyway.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
I agree with Lexus114-whatever works and makes them feel warm and fuzzy!!!-I use both dino and synthetic. Havoline in my Buick till it dies, dino is all its seen and it runs just fine on it. QSUD in the Corolla, cause when we bought it the previous owner used synthetic so we decided to stay with it even though he used M1, we like the QSUD better. I've settled on Maxlife for the Rav--seems to be just fine also, so with that being said I've got representation from all positions in the outfield--Left (syn), center (synblend) and right (dino)--How's that for an analogy.
______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 Havoline and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 VML and Wix filter
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Too many people here are on the Synthetic band wagon.....flame suit donned.
My Scion tC also has a ridiculously tiny oil filter for a 2.4L engine compared to my Civic 1.8L oil filter, which is much bigger.
That said, recent 10k OCIs showed insolubles @ 0.2 with wear metals looking great, oil condition is great and engine performing flawlessly.
btw, the factory specified OCI for my 06 tC is 5k maximum, so i'm doubling the OCI on the tiny oil filter and would gladly go longer.
Your statement on the tiny oil filter and extended OCIs as a result of that tiny oil filter don't make any sense to me.
As for the topic on hand... I also have quite a stash of synthetic, synth blend and dino oils that were bought for $1 a quart during Kmart's clearance sales. Brands include: Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Valvoline Maxlife, Pennzoil yellow bottle, and the list goes on.
I've also bought jugs of Mobil 1 from Autozone for $3.70 a quart with FREE SHIPPING to my home, when there was an online sale.
Oil filters are no different. P1's for $3 each. M1's for $6 each and tons of FREE oil filters after FAR oil change deals, not to mention the FREE oil itself.
Great oil deals are out there. You just have to pounce on them when you see them and buy a few oil changes worth in advance (or a few years worth, like me and other members do). Then your oil changes with a name brand synthetic oil and high quality oil filter = UNDER $15!
Now why would anyone pay retail for conventional oil (or even on sale) is beyond me.
Like I said, "To each their own re; this matter."
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cwing6
I agree with tig. I have enough PP to last a year for my four vehicles. After the coupons and rebates, I am under $2.00 per quart. Using AAP codes and sales for P1 filters, I am under $14.00 for a complete DIY OC with a great synthetic oil and a terrific filter.
I dont like to be bothered with rebate`s, or waiting for sales. To each there own with this matter.
I agree with Lexus114-whatever works and makes them feel warm and fuzzy!!!-I use both dino and synthetic. Havoline in my Buick till it dies, dino is all its seen and it runs just fine on it. QSUD in the Corolla, cause when we bought it the previous owner used synthetic so we decided to stay with it even though he used M1, we like the QSUD better. I've settled on Maxlife for the Rav--seems to be just fine also, so with that being said I've got representation from all positions in the outfield--Left (syn), center (synblend) and right (dino)--How's that for an analogy.
______________________
97 Prk.Ave.-5-30 Havoline and Wix filter
03 Corolla-5-30 QSUD and Wix filter
04 Rav4-5-30 VML and Wix filter
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: thunderchild
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
IMO....This is the real issue with you as far as costs are concerned....the fact is that you are locked into 5000 mile OCI's on synthetic.
If your doing mostly highway driving....you should easily be able to do 7,500 up to even 10,000 OCI's on a quality synthetic like M-1 or PP.....while on a dino, 5,000 would be about normal for most dinos.
IMO....You were just under utilizing the synthetic with shorter OCI's....and thus wasting $$$, time...and good oil to boot.
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
IMO....This is the real issue with you as far as costs are concerned....the fact is that you are locked into 5000 mile OCI's on synthetic.
If your doing mostly highway driving....you should easily be able to do 7,500 up to even 10,000 OCI's on a quality synthetic like M-1 or PP.....while on a dino, 5,000 would be about normal for most dinos.
IMO....You were just under utilizing the synthetic with shorter OCI's....and thus wasting $$$, time...and good oil to boot.
I like running synthetic as it makes me feel a little more confident to do slightly longer oci's and I do a lot of miles.
I've found that no matter what you use, dino or synth, in any of the trusted brands, Castrol, Shell-Penz, Mobil or Valvoline etc. As long as you keep a good maintenance schedule the engine survives about the same amount of time. That time being the point where the wife gets a hole in the radiator (or an oil leak) and drives without coolant (or oil), all idiot lights showing, until it's dead.
I've found that no matter what you use, dino or synth, in any of the trusted brands, Castrol, Shell-Penz, Mobil or Valvoline etc. As long as you keep a good maintenance schedule the engine survives about the same amount of time. That time being the point where the wife gets a hole in the radiator (or an oil leak) and drives without coolant (or oil), all idiot lights showing, until it's dead.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Originally Posted By: thunderchild
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
IMO....This is the real issue with you as far as costs are concerned....the fact is that you are locked into 5000 mile OCI's on synthetic.
If your doing mostly highway driving....you should easily be able to do 7,500 up to even 10,000 OCI's on a quality synthetic like M-1 or PP.....while on a dino, 5,000 would be about normal for most dinos.
IMO....You were just under utilizing the synthetic with shorter OCI's....and thus wasting $$$, time...and good oil to boot.
+1. With 10K OCIs there is no savings with dino and lose the benifits of synthetic oil as well.
Originally Posted By: thunderchild
I did not go over 5000 mile oil changes while on synthetic. I just felt more comfortable with that OCI. I know others here do, but I do not.
IMO....This is the real issue with you as far as costs are concerned....the fact is that you are locked into 5000 mile OCI's on synthetic.
If your doing mostly highway driving....you should easily be able to do 7,500 up to even 10,000 OCI's on a quality synthetic like M-1 or PP.....while on a dino, 5,000 would be about normal for most dinos.
IMO....You were just under utilizing the synthetic with shorter OCI's....and thus wasting $$$, time...and good oil to boot.
+1. With 10K OCIs there is no savings with dino and lose the benifits of synthetic oil as well.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Sorry you feel this way. We all have are likes and dis-likes and are free to express them in a civil tone. If that is not for you then BITOG may not be your kind of blog.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Sorry you feel this way. We all have are likes and dis-likes and are free to express them in a civil tone. If that is not for you then BITOG may not be your kind of blog.
Originally Posted By: dan_erickson
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Yes. There is an ignore feature.
In tig's defense he has used mobil 1 for longer than I have been driving and posts his experiences with it. His opinion is a relevant as anyone elses here.
I may feel similar to you however everyone can voice themselves here,and his
experience is as valid as any other poster's.
Edit: can a mod fix the quotes above. I don't know how I managed to screw that up.
Thanks
Originally Posted By: tig1
Much of your info is wrong. For example. M1 0ils by the jug have gone down in price at WM by about $2, and their qt price has remained the same for quite a long while now. Also the same with other brands. As for the mileage, you will open a can of worms for yourself with saying a large increase in MPG has resulted in going to dino. The engine coolant temp is in no way related to the very small increases in oil temp. Coolant temp is controled by the thermostat and by outside air temp to a small degree.
Is there an ignore feature for this site because this guy is very annoying. Who cares about Mobil 1 and how long you run it in your cars.
Yes. There is an ignore feature.
In tig's defense he has used mobil 1 for longer than I have been driving and posts his experiences with it. His opinion is a relevant as anyone elses here.
I may feel similar to you however everyone can voice themselves here,and his
experience is as valid as any other poster's.
Edit: can a mod fix the quotes above. I don't know how I managed to screw that up.
Thanks
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