Sustained, fairly high-speed

[shpankey]

Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Great question here...Even my ATX Mazda3 runs at a little higher RPM than I would like due to gearing. 80 is over 3k, which makes me worry on extended trips at high speeds. I am assuming that RL holds up better due to ester quantity, as well as shear stability. I've ofen thought about RL, even at the higher price. This might push me over the edge. Thoughts?
It's the same for my Mazdaspeed 3. And I have a 6 speed manual. I hate it that I have 6 gears and 80mph runs so high on the RPM's. Seems silly.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
On a very recent occasion, in December on the 10th or 12th, cold as can be in this area, they delivered Castrol 10W40, and the logo was for dino. One tank,all 10W40.


IIRC, that's the oil spec'd in the same engine in older models. Probably a CYA maneuver due to their unusual warranty. They either found it unnecessary, or were sorta "compelled" to alter it to allow production/sale of more units (although I can't see them having trouble meeting CAFE).

2004 HYUNDAI ACCENT 1.6L 4-cyl Engine Code [C] DOHC
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
AMSOIL European Car Formula 100% Synthetic 5W-40 Motor Oil (AFLQT)
XL 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLOQT)
Above -9F......10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50
Above 32F......20W-40, 20W-50
Below 95F......5W-30, 5W-40
Manual Transmission,......GL-4

In regard to your transaxle it appears GL4 is the requirement.

2008 HYUNDAI ACCENT 1.6L 4-cyl Engine Code [C] DOHC
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASMQT)
XL 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLMQT)
All TEMPS......5W-20 [1]
Manual Transmission,M5CF1......GL-4
All......75W-85
XL 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLOQT)
Above -9F......10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50
Above 32F......20W-40, 20W-50
Below 95F......5W-30, 5W-40

 

[garlicbreadman]

your engine is designed to run efficiently at those RPMS. I bet running at 4k rpms hardly phases any quality synthetic oil.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
your engine is designed to run efficiently at those RPMS. I bet running at 4k rpms hardly phases any quality synthetic oil.



Great point. For years the only vehicle I drove that had a tach was my 88 E-150 4.9L I-6. At 4,000 rpms it is just about screaming, I don't think I'd push it past 5K. These newer 4 cyl, and V6 engines were made to be driven at higher rpms. I would do a UOA if I planned on draining the oil at 10K miles just to be safe.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: shpankey

And I have a 6 speed manual. I hate it that I have 6 gears and 80mph runs so high on the RPM's. Seems silly.


This is great, actually.

You have a close ratio 6 speed actually designed for performance.

My Porsche 968 had a six speed where they designed it based on reaching the drag limited speed in 6th at (redline - 300) RPM (or something close to that). Every other gear ratio was designed to integrate well into that end product.

That car ALWAYS had the right gear for any corner.

My BMW 528 is designed to have an "overdrive" and is only a 5-speed. It never has the right gear for any corner (always too low or too high to be right in the sweet spot "on cam").

The Porsche was a 165mph+ car, supposedly, but still turned "surprisingly" high revs on Interstate-class highways. It's the trade off of design for cruising versus design for performance.

 

[mechtech2]

Don't forget that thinner oil runs cooler on the highway than thicker oil. [everything else the same]
It transfers heat better, and does not have so thick of a boundary layer on hot parts.

 

[CBR.worm]

I frequently do that drive from S. Fl where I live to job sites up and down the eastern sea board. My car is another one that the manual has a lower 6th gear than the auto. It will run for many hours a day without dropping below 3k except to fill the tank. The difference is that mine is a big V6 that gets 22 mpg on the highway.

My old bike used to sit at about 7,000 rpm at 80mph. It spent a lot of time at the limiter in top gear at just over 14k - radar clocked over 160 on multiple occasions. Today that would be Childs play - modern bikes are capable of much more. That bike got engine rebuilds every 40k as maintenance. They are proof that small engines can spin. I used to ride that bike from Richmond to Florida frequently, usually at 8k+ rpm.

My current bike has 160hp out of a 1 liter motor and can sit happily at 13k all day. Not that I would do that now that I am older and wiser.