Sustained, fairly high-speed

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I'm 6'1", and with the seat all the way back, I'm stretched out. It's quiet enough. You can hear the engine, but it doesn't buzz, probably because of these heavy billet steel harmonizers they have mounted on brackets attached to the block on either end of the engine. It has a right-arm armrest for the driver's seat, and MP3 CD changer, built in XM, 6 or 8 speaker sound system, it's got all I need. Like I said, I get in it, fill it up, drive it dry and do it all over again til I get there. No prob. Easier driving than the Tahoe with it's piggy handling, crummy brakes and breakdown worries, that's for sure.

As for OCI, they spec 7500 for normal service, 5000 for medium, 3750 for severe. I have to put the thing in for 15K service under the warranty, but after that, warranty or no, I have no probs running synthetic for 10K, warranty or not. I haven't had occasion to yet, but I will after this 15K. First OCI was 2500, second at 7500, and this one is going the full 7500, change at 15K. Already been through it with someone here. If I need to so paper purchases to cover the warranty for the 10K drain, it really won't matter. Short OCI, even at 7500 is a bloody waste, especially when I'm doing 3500+ miles a month on the thing. Plus, no small matter, the filter is in an awfull place, requiring the removal of the splash guard to get the filter off. Nightmare.
 
Penny rich and pound foolish to lose your warranty. Change it out at 7500. I always let the dealer do it. Dealer goodwill is important if you have a warranty claim.
 
Well, I have my receipts.. Got news for you about the dealers, at least this one. Wandering behind the service department for years now, I've taken note of the engine oil storage for service, all the hoses and a compressor line hooked into it. Each time there's a delivery, the distributor slaps a sticker on the tank at delivery time. On a very recent occasion, in December on the 10th or 12th, cold as can be in this area, they delivered Castrol 10W40, and the logo was for dino. One tank,all 10W40. Well, with the factory spec being 5W20, maybe I don't want 10W40 in my car in the winter (or summer either). Other times over the years, I've seen 10W30. NEVER 5W20. Other times, the sticker was from some recycling bizz in 10W30, Lorton Petroleum, or some such. But the dealer, probably in violation of their factory charter, saves a few bucks putting swill, wrong vis or grade, or who knows what other [censored] into the tank the mechanics draw from. So if I stretch a truly superior (superior to anything the dealer wants to put in) synthetic another couple of thousand miles and cover it with receipts, the dealer can eeet me.

No offense to anyone on that, but the thievery of these Stealerships is so truly breathtaking on so many levels, I won't lose sleep over this one. Caddy, Toyota, Honda, everyone has gone to oil life monitors and 10K OCI, but the lower level brands, manufacturing the same engines as everyone else, spec shorter intervals to ensure folks get in to get regularly ripped off. Sorry. I ain't buyin.
 
Drain the transmission and put in quality, synthetic Amsoil stuff in there. It may yield fuel economy and give you better shifting.
 
That's one thing I have to give credit to WM for - they are very careful about what goes in the tanks, and what goes in cars. Separate tanks for different grades, carefully marked guns, and if a tech got caught accidentally putting the wrong grade of oil in a car by the manager, it came right back in, and was drained and re-filled. Only what was on the oil cap on the engine got put in, no matter what a customer wanted. If the shop was out of bulk oil in the grade required, bottled name-brand oil off the shelf was put in - no Supertech, unless there was NOTHING else.

Maybe that was just the shop I worked in, but I think overall, WM is pretty good about doing good work to cover their A$$....
 
I take my 5 quart jug of pp 5-20 to the Honda dealer. It's express oil change so I can watch 'em put it in. I also take my car to the dealer for the annual state inspection. Most dealers are smart enough to value a regular customer.
 
toocrazy2yoo, I doubt engines are a weak point on modern Hyundai vehicles. With your thoughtful choice of OCI using good oil, chances are it will outlast the rest of the car. I might be worried about an automatic transmission biting the dust under warranty, but not an engine.

Hyundai dealers seem to try to scare their customers into bringing their vehicle in for every little service, and 3,000mi OCIs. Like you, I don't buy it. How much time will you waste driving to the dealer, waiting for the OC service, and driving back? DIY, isn't this BITOG?
 
Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Drain the transmission and put in quality, synthetic Amsoil stuff in there. It may yield fuel economy and give you better shifting.


I don't doubt that a bit, Sparts. Was thinking of doing that come springtime. One problem, they STILL call for Gl-4 in this tranny. Can't find that anymore. Who but Hyundai, eh? All the gear oil for a 5-speed is GL-5, which, if memory serves, is hard on the soft, or yellow, metals. THAT is something that could get me busted, so I have to stay on spec on that. Good idea, though!
 
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
toocrazy2yoo, I doubt engines are a weak point on modern Hyundai vehicles. With your thoughtful choice of OCI using good oil, chances are it will outlast the rest of the car. I might be worried about an automatic transmission biting the dust under warranty, but not an engine.

Hyundai dealers seem to try to scare their customers into bringing their vehicle in for every little service, and 3,000mi OCIs. Like you, I don't buy it. How much time will you waste driving to the dealer, waiting for the OC service, and driving back? DIY, isn't this BITOG?


All too true. You're right about these engine, too. My 92 Elantra had 288K the week I traded it off the heels of a 500 mile trip from Boston. It was due for struts, tires, brakes, exhaust, I just got tired of keeping up with maintenance, but the thing never broke down, and it always blew a clean EPA inspection, so these engines aren't the problem, long term, it's the rest of the car.
 
I make the trip to Daytona Beach, Florida about 6 times a year in my Toyota 4Runner. It's a little over 1,000 miles and 17 hours one way. The only stops are for gas and restroom breaks.

When I'm running at 80 - 85 mph, with the pack, my RPM's will be between 2.5 and 2.7. My Toyota 4Runner runs extremely well and never have a need for Sea Foam since all the build up inside of the manifold is burnt off. I do use the Chevron Techron concentrated fuel system cleaner, 20oz bottle with every 3 or 4 fill-ups while high speed driving. Most of the time my speed is about 70 to 75 MPH and the occasional 60 - 65 MPH going through municipalities. I really don't consider it to be severe driving since I've made the trip with Valvoline SynPower 10W-30 and TufOil. I have not noticed a breakdown in the oil and it is still clean with a little bit of black when I wipe off the dip stick. Don't forget about all the dust, dirt and road smog you pick up and a good air filter is a must. I like the Fram Air Hog since it seems to trap quite a bit.

My truck runs nice and smooth after the long trips each way since the fluids all get nice and hot for the trip. Tires get hot also with the continuous driving so it's best to keep an eye on those babies.
 
Wow. I find this quite surprising.

I was under the impression that in such an instance one would call for a slightly thicker grade, such as a xW-40 or xW-50, but definately not a xW-20!

I was under the impression that in this instance, the oil would heat up a fair bit due to the sustained higher RPM and that would thin the oil out. In this instance, the thermal load on the oil would be quite high.
This is opposed to city driving where RPM's are generally low and low RPM's equal low oil temperatures.
 
I have used the 10W-30 Valvoline Synpower with the 5 ounces of Tuf Oil for the trip many times with no problems. No breakdown and the oil is clean with a little bit of black when I wipe off the dip stick. The black may be from the darker tuf oil with the high concentration of Moly or else road pollution picked up on I-95 at high speeds.

It appears that the viscosity of the pure synthetics do not suffer as much from high speed sustained driving like the Dino conventions would under similar circumstances.

For my next OCI I will be using Shell Rotella T6, 05W-40 and will see how well it performs in the V6.
 
Originally Posted By: toocrazy2yoo
Well, relatively, anyway. 2008 1.6L four-banger Hyundai 5-Speed, this OCI has about 6K out of 7K on PP 5W20 at Interstate speeds, 65-80 or 85. RPMs run at a steady 80ish around 4000-4400. Gold Purolator filter. Not using a drop, the oil is darker than new, not black. Is this severe service, hard on the oil, or am I not even making a dent in the ad-pack? These are trips north and south I-95, Florida to No. Va., back and forth to New England, fill the car, point it north or south, drive the gas out of it, fill it up, do it all over again. My feeling is, this usage is fine for 10,000 miles, but then I consider the RPM and wonder..
Your engine is happy. That is easy service. The engine at operating temps .The oil is at operating temps, getting filtered and there is oil every where in abundance nothing better. Do a uoa and share it with us at 10,000 miles.
 
toocrazy, you've got nooo problems IMO. Your only concern is the RPMs, and really that's no cause for concern on this small engine. Light internal parts, low reciprocating mass, low load and it being engineered that way are all factors to consider to ease your mind. 5w20 is getting excellent flow throughout your engine (good component lubing and cooling), esp. considering the RPM the pump is spinning at. It's also presenting the least internal drag issues relative to thicker grades, which would do you no good IMO, but rob power. I used to drive a 2.5L V6 that spun about the same speed and higher, even for many hours and it was smooth as silk. According to the SAE paper on that engine, it was most efficient at 3000-4000 RPM. I doubt your engine is much different, or chances are it wouldn't be geared that way! Rest easy
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Originally Posted By: dirtydannyd
Wow. I find this quite surprising.

I was under the impression that in such an instance one would call for a slightly thicker grade, such as a xW-40 or xW-50, but definately not a xW-20!

I was under the impression that in this instance, the oil would heat up a fair bit due to the sustained higher RPM and that would thin the oil out. In this instance, the thermal load on the oil would be quite high.
This is opposed to city driving where RPM's are generally low and low RPM's equal low oil temperatures.


You impressions are correct. Your reaction may not be.

In my observations oil temp is stable as long as cooling system capacity allows stable temp. If you can maintain the thermostat's set point, your oil, at least under sustained output, will tend to peak. Once you run out of reserve capacity, and start advancing the stable temp upward, so will the oil temp climb.

Let me state it another way. It's unlikely that you'll have runaway oil temps with a normal coolant temp.
 
Accents with manual transmissions are a rare beast down here- I guess the dealers just don't order them. I've never seen one.

My Accent turns 3250 RPM at 80 MPH. Although the engine is turning 750 fewer revolutions at that speed than the OP's, my fuel economy is still lower than that of the OP. I can't get anywhere near 400 miles out of a tank- I'm more like 340. I would have thought that fewer RPMs= higher MPG.

I would have thought the Manual has had a taller 5th gear than it does, to get the RPMs down to at least that of the manual, if not lower. It would have made the engine less busy.
 
Originally Posted By: HyundaiGuy
I would have thought that fewer RPMs= higher MPG.

Engines burn fuel more efficiently at higher RPMs -- to a point, of course. Then, on the flip side, you have various sources of drag in the engine that increase with RPMs. The best RPM range for fuel economy will be a balance of those two sets of concerns.
 
Originally Posted By: HyundaiGuy
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I would have thought the Manual has had a taller 5th gear than it does, to get the RPMs down to at least that of the manual, if not lower. It would have made the engine less busy.


I meant to say:
I would have thought the Manual has had a taller 5th gear than it does, to get the RPMs down to at least that of the automatic, if not lower. It would have made the engine less busy

My bad..
 
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