Supertech 10w-30 synthetic

[tbmmbt]

Hello,

I did a search but came up empty so I'll ask here. Is the synthetic Supertech 10w30 oil a good all around oil? I have a 05 Silverado pick-up I use for work and have always used Havoline 5w30 dino oil in it. I used Havoline 10w30 dino in my 88 Bonneville and when I sold it the mileage was 279,000 and only would be down give or take 1/2 quart at the 3000 mile oil change interval I use. I have heard so many different opinions on synthetic. Some say that the dino packages of today will rival the sythetics and at about 1/3 the price it is hard to argue. Any info or comparisons would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Butch

 

[Triple_Se7en]

They rival the dinos at wear protection. Synthetics are better in overall exteme temps, engine cleanliness & length of oil life.

What I don't understand is how some folks think nothing about spending $25K on a truck, then nickel & dime making their oil/gasoline brand selections.

Super Tech synthetic will get your vehicle to 300K -- so will Havoline dino. You need to decide how often you want to crawl under the truck & how severe your driving habits are. Again, synthetics are better in severe use/abuse -- plus other synthetics like Platinum, Mobil-1 and GC will last longer in the crankcase than Super Tech.

 

[Bill in Utah]

First of all,

If your going to stay with 3k or 3 months, use which ever is the cheapest.

I'm using oil in my 2000 Silverado V8 and what ever was on sale I run. Pennzoil seems to be the best for the few UOAs I've run and Mobil 1 syn was the worst.

If it was me and those two choices(Halovine or Supertech Syn) I'd run the Halovine.

Bump the OCI up to 5-6k miles I'd prob still say Halovine.

I've got (still in the family) a 1986 VW Jetta and it's got 260k miles with nothing done to its engine and all its seen has been Halovine and Valovine dino.

I've run syn and done UOAs and I'll use the good dino oil and save the $$ for other things.

I've opened up quite a few engines and they have been very clean. I don't buy it's going to keep your engine cleaner.

Esp if you CHANGE your oil.

Take care, Bill

 

[tbmmbt]

Triple_Se7en

I see what your saying about the high price of vehicles nowadays so what would you suggest? I have had good luck with the Havoline oil but don't see alot of people blowing Havolines horn here. Thats why I thought that a good synthetic at a decent price would be better than what I have been normally using. I think that the name brand sythetics are in their own way ripping off the public with their $5-$6 a quart so called synthetics when they start with a grpIII dino oil. I just wanted to know about the Supertech synthetic and if that oil was good or bad in everyones opinion or should I consider another synthetic or stay with the dino oil I have been using.

Thanks
Butch

 

[BrianWC]

Bill, where do you get this "Halovine" oil? I go to Wal-Mart and all they have is Havoline!

Sorry, just crackin' a funny!


I'd say you've done good and used an oil highly regarded here. Crisco could probably carry you to 300k.

I have no scientific evidence to prove that for those that want me to provide documentary evidence to prove my statements...

I'd just say whatever's cheapest! You may even consider dino Supertech!

 

[tbmmbt]

Bill in Utah

Thanks for the welcome. I change my own oil as I am one that likes to let the used oil drain as completely as possible. I'm not into this when the stream gets small thats good enough to put the new in. I don't think its difficult to change my oil on my truck as it sits up. Now my daughters Kia is a #%&@% to get under but I change that one also. If I use a dino oil it will be changed every 3000 miles. I just didn't know what kind of difference there was in Supertech synthetic changed every 6000 miles with a filter change at 3000 miles and the more expensive synthetics changed at the same interval. I have a hard time making myself go to 10000-15000 OCI with the way I am used to but I may have to get used to that. Any knowledge is helpful to someone who doesn't know.

Thanks
Butch

 

[AndyH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tbmmbt:
I have had good luck with the Havoline oil but don't see alot of people blowing Havolines horn here.

---

Really? I'd suggest looking around a bit more as Havoline and Chevron conventional oil strike me as two of the most popular conventional PCMOs on BITOG.

quote:

---

Originally posted by tbmmbt:
I just didn't know what kind of difference there was in Supertech synthetic changed every 6000 miles with a filter change at 3000 miles...

---

I wouldn't bother changing the filter at 3,000 miles, most (all?) quality filters today should easily go 6,000 miles, if not longer.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

tbmmbt

I would run Havoline. It has a real good history here.

What do I suggest?
M-1, Platinum or GC in a synthetic. I only like Schaefers in a ready-made syn-blend & either Castrol, Pennzoil or Havoline in dino. The rest all work fine - I just prefer these because I think they are better than the rest commonly found in stores.

I do not consider oils like Motul, Amsoil, Red Line, Synergy... etc... as being "commonly found".

 

[BrianWC]

We've all gone platinum crazy, haven't we? Course, I got a case today!

 

[Triple_Se7en]

So far, the Platinum has shown quietness & good oil pressure for 3K of this OCI. I have my fingers crossed because I have 14 more quarts of it to use.

 

[Blue99]

SuperTech 10w30 is a Grp III synthetic motor oil.

Expect the performance to be a step above a typical dino/conventional oil, but not the same level as a full synthetic , such as Mobil 1.

Grp III base oils have very good high temp properties and also good low temp cold crank ratings.

 

[tbmmbt]

Well thats the kind of info I was looking for. I don't know what GC or PCMO means but the Havoline oil I am used to apparently gets higher marks here than what I thought. I was told by some others that I might want to look into the 5w-40 synthetic Shell Rotella T or the 15w40 Shell Rotella T dino. Either doesn't fall under the 5w30 that my oil cap calls for. Anyone have an opinion on these oils?

Thanks
Butch

 

[BrianWC]

Think of the Shell Rotella T 5W40synth the same as the Supertech synth but with a better additive pack. The 15W40 dino is a bit thicker at startup. Some people care, some don't. It would be much less of a stretch for you to use the Rotella synth. the difference between 30 or 40 weight isn't going to matter that much. On a car w/ that high a mileage, 40 weight may offer you a little bit better compression.

 

[AndyH]

GC = "German Castrol" (Castrol Syntec 0w30 which is made in Germany. A "true" synthetic oil, unlike most of the rest of Castrol's US Syntec line.)
PCMO = Passenger Car Motor Oil

 

[tbmmbt]

I wasn't thinking about the Rotella for my passenger car as I have already sold that. I was thinking about it for my 05 Chevy Silverado.

Thanks for what the GC and PCMO meant. That also gets back to my original point that the synthetics now a days are not true synthetics they are dino oils that they put through a process that they call synthetics.

That's why I wanted to know something about the group III synthetics called Supertech. I just figured that they went through the same process that they call the other synthetics and why should you pay double for the same thing? But, I guess the additive package must make a difference in the synthetics. I am not sure.

Thanks
Butch

 

[thooks]

Keep running Havoline and bump it to 4k intervals.

I'd stick a PureONE filter on it and call it good until 350k miles.

 

[OriginHacker21]

These guys are right - If you are going to change your oil every 3,000 miles then don't worry about the brand (any one will do).

You can use better oil (German Castrol 0w30) and go 10,000 miles or more with superior protection and a cleaner engine.

 

[tbmmbt]

I wasn't thinking about the Rotella for my passenger car as I have already sold that. I was thinking about it for my 05 Chevy Silverado.

Thanks for what the GC and PCMO meant. That also gets back to my original point that the synthetics now a days are not true synthetics they are dino oils that they put through a process that they call synthetics.

That's why I wanted to know something about the group III synthetics called Supertech. I just figured that they went through the same process that they call the other synthetics and why should you pay double for the same thing? But, I guess the additive package must make a difference in the synthetics. I am not sure.

Thanks
Butch

 

[BrianWC]

Yeah, though base oils may be similar, some have accused Supertech and a few others of not having a robust addy pack. It certainly wouldn't (I wouldn't think) have the robust additive pack of an HDEO.

There are so many chemicals and processes involved and oils in general have gotten so much better that I wonder if we are just splitting hairs over what's synth.

The main beef most people have with group III oils being called synthetics is not that they are really that inferior, it's that they are sold at the same price, in many cases, as the more expensive to produce group IV oils.

I think you'd be fine w/ a 15W40, there are a lot of people that run it. I've got it in my car right now! In winter! But in Louisiana. Most people say not to run it below 15 degrees farenheit. I'm in NOO danger of that!

If you aren't deadset on Rotella, Castrol's new diesel oil, Tection Extra 15W40, is freqently put on sale since they are trying to build a base for it. I got 8 gallons for $5 each back in November or December and still didn't take full advantage of the rebates.

 

[Schism]

Triple_Se7en >>>"What I don't understand is how some folks think nothing about spending $25K on a truck, then nickel & dime making their oil/gasoline brand selections.

Super Tech synthetic will get your vehicle to 300K -- so will Havoline dino."

Lol, if nickel and dime making will get me to 300k, why not?! It's funny you said that you don't understand, and then basically said it didn't matter if you nickel and dimed. In 300,000 miles it will be more than just nickel and dimes, depending on your oci. The people getting their oil for .49 are the real winners imo.


Butch i'd keep using the havoline and bump your oci's up to 4-5k.
Don't get confused, as some said, grpIII is better than most regular oil, you can run it a little longer(up to around 8k), as it is more resistant to breakdown. There are other synthetics that are much better like mobil 1 which use a superior base oil. It can be run from 7.5k-15k+ intervals depending on the engine and conditions.