Supercharger - Worth It?

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Crank and block are the same. Pistons are different...

Here is the skinny...

Supercharge an N/A 3800

A converted N/A 3800 on the Dyno. Where the L36 and L67 shine is torque. My car is 20 more HP than this and 22 ft/lbs more torque with similar mods.
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Supercharged L36 Dyno
 
Yeah, getting to work in the morning is a bit like that on Australian roads...

This morning a guy in a Hyundai hogged the fast lane, at an increasingly slow speed, flasshed to get into slow lane, nope car there, balked and slowed even more, moved to slow lane with no indicators, and just as the whine started, decide that he was half in the fast lane again...fortunately, I'd boosted ahead of him.
 
Ask my wife and a resounding yes(she has turbocharged subaru).

Typically if car maker did the forced induction right they fortify the motor so they actually last longer if driven reasonably over their lifespan. For example on our Subaru we avoid the headgasket issues ($1000-$1500/fix) since they fortify that portion of turbo motor.

GM likely does the same.

Fuel is still relatively cheap. It just jumps a bit and then drops back in price. If you drive reasonably and use the extra power with reason typically MPG is about the same. Many times to get similar acceleration of natural aspirated motor you press it really hard vs very light on induced motor so I think MPG is a wash.
 
OMG for sure! The difference between the regular N/A Subaru's and the boosted ones is considerable.

Those Buicks were quite strong, my son had one for a while and beat the snot out of it. It ran stronger with age, and extremely mild mods made it quite fast (in a straight line).
 
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Actually the only way that I could get insurance with my current provider on the L67 Caprice was to promise to mod it...thus proving "enthusiast" status, then could do my other car and home/contents.
 
The front passenger-side wheel speed sensor wasn't sending a signal to the computer, so the seller paid to have it replaced (~$380). That didn't take care of the lights and the mechanic traced the issue back to the wiring, as the sensor in the new hub was working but the signal wasn't getting to the computer. He repaired the wiring ($150) and the ABS and TC lights are off.

I picked up the car this afternoon and it is still as fun as I remember when test driving it! My wife took me to pick it up, we stopped to eat, and when we left, I floored it at a light and it took off like a rocket! The kids were in the Burb with my wife and my oldest said, "Wow, he's going fast like a race car!"
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Yeah, getting to work in the morning is a bit like that on Australian roads...

This morning a guy in a Hyundai hogged the fast lane, at an increasingly slow speed, flasshed to get into slow lane, nope car there, balked and slowed even more, moved to slow lane with no indicators, and just as the whine started, decide that he was half in the fast lane again...fortunately, I'd boosted ahead of him.


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Did you have a blue heeler riding shotgun with you? Haha.

Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
The front passenger-side wheel speed sensor wasn't sending a signal to the computer, so the seller paid to have it replaced (~$380). That didn't take care of the lights and the mechanic traced the issue back to the wiring, as the sensor in the new hub was working but the signal wasn't getting to the computer. He repaired the wiring ($150) and the ABS and TC lights are off.

I picked up the car this afternoon and it is still as fun as I remember when test driving it! My wife took me to pick it up, we stopped to eat, and when we left, I floored it at a light and it took off like a rocket! The kids were in the Burb with my wife and my oldest said, "Wow, he's going fast like a race car!"


Hey congratulations on your new ride!

Sounds bad@$$. Please keep us updated with your feedback.
 
Can get a stealth 10psi pulley that looks stock (well it looks new, so better clean the rest at the time that you install)
 
Lots of good info here....

My '97 GTP now has 212k miles and has never been opened up. It doesn't burn oil, gets good mileage if I stay out of boost and has never left me stranded. I run a tuned PCM with a smaller pulley.
 
Do headers and exhaust. leave the pulley alone and you might be able to go with midgrade or regular. I had thought about doing that with an L67 when I get back from the states, and you are making me look into more now. With the L26, you have the better blower. Mine had a fuel leak on the S/C, which I can very much see being a firestarter, and some had some relay or something that went out and caused the car to not start. I really want a TDI, but reading through all this makes me want an L26 GTP now too.
 
Originally Posted By: Shaman
Do headers and exhaust. leave the pulley alone and you might be able to go with midgrade or regular. I had thought about doing that with an L67 when I get back from the states, and you are making me look into more now. With the L26, you have the better blower. Mine had a fuel leak on the S/C, which I can very much see being a firestarter, and some had some relay or something that went out and caused the car to not start. I really want a TDI, but reading through all this makes me want an L26 GTP now too.


They are a great car with a near bulletproof engine. I had a benneville ssi at one point. I loved that car. I had it for 4 months,amassed 2500 in speeding tickets and my insurance went to 4000 a year. Decided it was time to sell it.
I still miss it. It's one of the most fun grocery getters ever built. Could get to hockey in record time and usually the cops don't look twice,unless your going so fast air displacement shakes their parked cruiser.
 
The Bonneville if I remember was with the Park Avenue as an H-body? but I think the engine was the same. I had a Grand Prix coupe, so it "looked fast". Only raced it twice, beat a civic, and was beat by an LT1. Really easy driving on the highway, no need for downshifts with the blower. Only really went over the speed limit when on I-35 after an OU-UT game and 10 over was only enough to keep the semis from blowing you off the road. Counted 13 cars and 5 trucks passing me in 5 minutes in case a cop thought 85 was too fast.
 
My stock 05 GTP walked away from a friends 2010 Hemi Challenger. Admittedly driving had a little to do with it, as his was a 6 speed and he spent most of the race trying to not be sideways.......
 
Those cars can be fast for a little money. When you get one, change the SC fluid. And hold your nose while you do it. I've smelled two week old DOA's that are less pungent.
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Originally Posted By: ls1mike
Awesome have fun with it!
For your shopping pleasure

www.zzperformance.com

You're trying to get me in trouble!

The Burb is my mod ride. I promised my wife the GP would remain stock.

Eh, Buy that stuff. You will feel good about it.
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Plus what Hardcore302 said. That fluid, well it is animal fat based, worst smelling lubricant in any car.
 
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Might start another thread on it, as I feel really good about my L67 at the present.

Been tracking a 2012 Subaru Forester 4WD auto that I've regular contact with, and have been getting 11.7 litres per 100km in mixed highway and small town driving. (on 0W-20 oil)

My 1997 L67 Caprice gets the same mileage (admittedly on premium), in the same conditions, is leather bound comfort, and cost me less than a 1/4 of the subie cost that owner
 
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