Stupid question of the day. Car ramps.

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May 19, 2018
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NORTH CAROLINA
I started changing my own oil again. Changed it twice. What a pain in butt with my fat ass. Not as small and nimble as I use to be. I had these ramps since the mid 90’s. Changed many many vehicles. But they was smaller trucks and cars. The weight sticker is faded. But I believe it’s says 6500 gvw . I don’t want to be squished. I seemingly think about that more now with age. Am I good to go. I think my vehicle says 6200 on the door. If I’m looking correctly. I set the parking brake and chocked the rear tire. Thanks guys and gals.
 

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If I didn't know the rating, I wouldn't use them.

That 6200 # you see on the truck is the max, loaded weight (2-3 passengers, full tank of fuel, and the bed filled with weight).
 
Those ramps are the exact ones that are known for collapsing. My friend had those collapse under a Scion TC. That friend was lucky enough not to be under it at that second. Another friend of a friend unfortunately was crushed to death in 2016 with similar ramps.

I would rather go with the "plastic" ones from AutoZone, 12,000lbs rated ones. Or build some out of wood: cheap, can set your own height, very sturdy usually.
 
Steel is real. No way I'd go plastic over those.

I think the Achilles heel there is that they rely on the bend to hold shape. Add a simple crossmember horizontally near the bottom on each side so the ramp can't "open up." A 10 minute affair with a welder. Add a vertical to form an upside down "T" for bonus points.

Old school steel ramps (they seemed to always be red in color) were often constructed this way. The lower crossmember prevents stacking or nesting so that's probably why they deleted it.

I've used those same ramps since ~1996 on cars and half tons including an '02 Silverado extra cab 4x4.
 
Also if you add a crossmember on the OUTSIDE on one ramp and the INSIDE on the other, they'd still stack.....

And watch classifieds, FB MP etc. Quite often I see the old red ones pop up from some old timer or estate sale cleaning out the garage. Old farms and ranches a solid bet, too.
 
You could make or find something that slips under the ramp cross ways and fills the empty space below the top of the ramp on each side (maybe a couple of 12" long 2 X 6s bolted together). That way you'd have the convenience of those prebuilt ramps with the safety that if a ramp collapses the wheel can't go far.
 
Steel is real. No way I'd go plastic over those.

I think the Achilles heel there is that they rely on the bend to hold shape. Add a simple crossmember horizontally near the bottom on each side so the ramp can't "open up." A 10 minute affair with a welder. Add a vertical to form an upside down "T" for bonus points.

Old school steel ramps (they seemed to always be red in color) were often constructed this way. The lower crossmember prevents stacking or nesting so that's probably why they deleted it.

I've used those same ramps since ~1996 on cars and half tons including an '02 Silverado extra cab 4x4.
My steel ramps are built with steel cross-members on the inside and outside. I bought the ramps on sale at a good price and then had to add a more gradual ramp at the front like the black and red part in the photos above (as both cars were too low to start the climb). The added part cost as much as the ramps.

I don't think they'd stack but I have room for them. There was a bit of rust on the bases last spring from sitting in a damp spot so I cleaned that off carefully and resprayed them.

PS Mine are black.
 
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Those do look a little spooky. I use some that look like those except mine have an additional vertical member at the midpoint of the ramp. Also have a diagonal brace under the wheel platform.
 
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I made some out of 2x12’s that I put my 3/4 ton Ram with a Cummins in it. If I use my ramps I can fit a full sized 5 gallon bucket under there to catch the oil. They were easy to make and I feel very safe under there.

I don’t know that I’d feel safe under those ramps the OP posted.

Just my $0.02
 
The plastic ones can have their issues too. I know I've posted this before:

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I think I went up the ramp too fast and bumped the "bumper" on the end of the ramp too hard. Makes it tough to depend on them when user error can so easily break them!
 
I don't see an issue with the ramp weight rating, since at least some of the vehicle weight will be on the back tires anyway.

It's the poor design of those ramps that would be enough for me to not want to use them. They appear to need a brace that goes from front to back to prevent them from collapsing.
 
I think I went up the ramp too fast and bumped the "bumper" on the end of the ramp too hard. Makes it tough to depend on them when user error can so easily break them!
Those are your ramps ? And they both failed at the same time ? That's freaky if they did.
 
Those are your ramps ? And they both failed at the same time ? That's freaky if they did.
Yes, and yes. I was going up the ramp, and you know how the car will roll back down if you let off the gas too soon? Well, that happened too many times so I must've gone up too fast and didn't stop in time. I think I hit the "bumper" on the ramps and they tilted up and broke.

This was in a 2002 Impala.
 
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You have to hit the front bumper with most tires in order to get the tires fully on the ramps too, so that's scary.
 
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I have a set of the plastic Rhino ramps that I bought at Napa. They offered them in two weight classes. I only intend to use them for my Honda CRV but I bought the heavier weight class because I wanted the extra safety of having ramps that were rated for way more than I would be using them for.

PF52, do you know if the Rhino ramps that you had break on you for the lower rated weight ones or the higher rated weight ones?
 
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