Stock flat tappet

[Duffyjr]

Thanks to a recent post on zddp I'm now rethinking my decisions. I bought the truck for a good price knowing the engine had low oil pressure and would probably have to put a new engine in it and when the time came my mech had a crate 5.7 with about 12k on it so I had him install it. I started out running VR1 10w30 in it year round. About three winters ago we started getting a lot more days below 0 and quite a few -25 so I decided to use Valvoline Daily Protection 5w30 in the winter but I never felt good about it not having that extra zddp so come March I'd throw the VR1 back in. Now I've decided it's a waste to change it twice a year since I only put about 2/3kish a year on it.

What I have decided is to run 5w30 and it should be synthetic to help with those cold starts and I just feel better when there is more zddp in there.

Out of all the oils RDY4WAR posted the Redline is the easiest to get at Amazon and would actually save me money since I'm going annual. The VR1 has gone up to $50 for a six pack so a little over $41 per change then add in the Daily Protection at $20 so $61 a year and the Redline will work out to $51 a year plus I'll be stepping up to synthetic.

This is my 89 GMC with the stock flat tappet 5.7 and I plan on keeping it since it was my father in-laws and only has 80k on it.

Any opinions on my thinking here?

 

[92saturnsl2]

I'd run a 10w-30 HDEO year round. If you can split up oil changes by season, use 0w-30 or 5w-30 in winter since you're in a colder climate.

I wouldn't be terribly concerned with ZDDP in that engine. This isn't some race engine with super stiff valve springs (correct me if I'm wrong), it's a stock run of the mill GM 350. Millions of miles have been put on these engines using SM and newer oils.

 

[Dinoburner]

Mobile 1 high mileage in the 95 GMC in my sig is doing fine. Takes 2 years tp get 5-6000 mi on it and except for dump runs and occasional grocery getting it`s a winter beater. Body has no rust due to annual oil undercoat. Time will tell if we are doing right by it.

 

[dave1251]

If it is a stock V8 truck engine I would just use a off the shelf PCMO. The "zenk" angle has been overplayed but marketers for too long.

 

[addyguy]

Amsoil HDD 5W-30 would be an excellent oil for that engine. Lots of ZDDP, and still and 5W-30 with great cold-crank values. Win-Win!

 

[Greg L]

Had a 5.7 for years. Sage advice above...do not worry too much about ZDDP all the time. I put in a small bottle about every 3rd or 4th oil change. Never had any cam issue.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Stab a hyd roller.

 

[ka9mnx]

High Zn not required for that engine. Modern oil will work fine. See my sig for what I'm using in my flat tappet F150. SN+, Dex 1 Gen2 and ILSAC GF-5. No problem.

 

[demarpaint]

Rislone makes a ZDDP additive that is a lot less money than the Red Line product. Look into that if you want to tweak your oil.

 

[Lubener]

Anything(5w-30) you put into that 5.7 will do fine. No need for science here.

 

[FCD]

For a well worn in stock flat tappet probably high amounts of Zddp are not necessary.
However it doesn't hurt to use one that has a higher amount of it just to be safe.
The VR1 10W-30 should serve it well for a very long time.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by 92saturnsl2
This isn't some race engine with super stiff valve springs (correct me if I'm wrong), it's a stock run of the mill GM 350. Millions of miles have been put on these engines using SM and newer oils.


Correct. You should be fine.

Worst case scenario, swap in a Summit/Jegs cam & lifter kit down the road for $84.95. I can do one in about 2.5 hours.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by demarpaint
Rislone makes a ZDDP additive that is a lot less money than the Red Line product. Look into that if you want to tweak your oil.


Schaeffer's has a really good moly additive that would protect the cam & lifters as well.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Rislone makes a ZDDP additive that is a lot less money than the Red Line product. Look into that if you want to tweak your oil.


Schaeffer's has a really good moly additive that would protect the cam & lifters as well.

#132? If so good stuff, but more costly than the Rislone product. It's harder to get, and I'm not too sure about how much if any ZDDP it contains. It will "thicken" the oil it is added to, possibly bumping it up a grade..

 

[nascarnation]

What vintage is your crate engine?
I believe GM went with roller cam in 1995 on the pickup engines.

 

[Duffyjr]

Originally Posted by nascarnation
What vintage is your crate engine?
I believe GM went with roller cam in 1995 on the pickup engines.


It's a pre 1996 TBI.

Thanks for all the suggestions and thanks for reeling me back in, I don't know why I get so worked up every time a ZDDP post comes around, I guess having to replace the engine once is enough for me. How ever I do want to stick with an oil that still has the upper limits so I think I'll throw some Advanced in there and hope for the best.

 

[dave1251]

You realize there 600PPM phosphorus is all that is needed in a stock flat tappet if there is no other anti-wear additives and I am certain a modern PCMO has other anti-wear additives.

 

[A_Harman]

Use any good synthetic 5w30, and supplement it with Redline Break In oil additive, enough to bring the Phos up to 1200 ppm. I've been doing that with my Cummins Dodge, and it has brought Iron wear rates down on UOA's. It takes about 3 oz per gallon to bring 800 ppm up to 1200.

 

[ka9mnx]

Originally Posted by dave1251
You realize there 600PPM phosphorus is all that is needed in a stock flat tappet...

I don't think people realize 600ppm was the norm back then.

 

[SR5]

Another easy option is to run M1 or Edge 0W40 A3/B4 that has about 1000 ppm zinc.

That gives you 200-300 ppm more Zn than a standard GF-5 oil, and they are thin 40 grades so close to 30 grade in viscosity plus no problems with cold starts.