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I always wait till the temp guage begins to move before I drive.
startup in cold weather...how long to warm up?
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If its cold enough that it needs some idle time, then its cold enough that the windows are thoroughly fogged and/or iced up. I'll give it the couple minutes it needs to defog the windshield and keep it defogged. Then I go.
If its cold out but not quite that cold, I'll give it 15-30 seconds for the oil to circulate and the rpm to come down to normal idle. Then I go.
-Spyder
If its cold out but not quite that cold, I'll give it 15-30 seconds for the oil to circulate and the rpm to come down to normal idle. Then I go.
-Spyder
I asked this question last year (as did several others) and most said either to go by the vehicle's manual or by the tachometer. Now what's interesting is that for my GS 400 they essentially correlate. In other words, my manual states that if it is above freezing the Lexus just needs 2-3 seconds and that happens to be the same amount of time that it takes the tach to go below 1000 rpm's. The manual also says that if it below freezing (like today in Tulsa) to wait 1 or 2 minutes,which incidentally is how long it takes the tach to get below 1000 rpm.
The Fit gets started, waits a second or two, then goes. 0w-20 in that car.
The Buick is using an engine heater most days, so it too gets started, waits for the ScanGauge to kick off (3-5 seconds), and goes. Synthetic 5w30 in it.
If it's really cold, both cars (when not assisted by pre-heaters) will get run for 10-15 seconds, babied until the "cold" light goes off in the Fit, or until the coolant reaches over 120*F in the Buick.
On an unrelated note, the Buick burns gas at the rate of 1.2 gallons per hour for the first 2-3 minutes after a true cold start. It's still in open-loop operation for that long.
The Buick is using an engine heater most days, so it too gets started, waits for the ScanGauge to kick off (3-5 seconds), and goes. Synthetic 5w30 in it.
If it's really cold, both cars (when not assisted by pre-heaters) will get run for 10-15 seconds, babied until the "cold" light goes off in the Fit, or until the coolant reaches over 120*F in the Buick.
On an unrelated note, the Buick burns gas at the rate of 1.2 gallons per hour for the first 2-3 minutes after a true cold start. It's still in open-loop operation for that long.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
If it's really cold, both cars (when not assisted by pre-heaters) will get run for 10-15 seconds, babied until the "cold" light goes off in the Fit, or until the coolant reaches over 120*F in the Buick.
Wait, the Fit has a "Cold" light?
If it's really cold, both cars (when not assisted by pre-heaters) will get run for 10-15 seconds, babied until the "cold" light goes off in the Fit, or until the coolant reaches over 120*F in the Buick.
Wait, the Fit has a "Cold" light?
Cars have high initial idles speeds when cold to get oil flowing fast.
Just drive it right away. It will heat up better. Up to 30 seconds is really just about the same. Put on your seat belt, etc..
Often in cold weather, windows need to be scraped and snow removed. I let it run while doing this. Better defroster action and interior heat.
Just drive it right away. It will heat up better. Up to 30 seconds is really just about the same. Put on your seat belt, etc..
Often in cold weather, windows need to be scraped and snow removed. I let it run while doing this. Better defroster action and interior heat.
If temp above 41 F, I warm up for 2 mintues.
If temp below 41 F, I warm up for about 4-5 minutes.
My 2006 Toyota Camry V6 just pass 200,000 miles. No check engine light. My car only seem mechanic 1 time in 4 years for timing belt, water pump, drive belt, transmission oil, coolant, spark plug, air filter, thermostat. ( only cost $600 at local shop).
So I think it is good to warm up your car for about 2 minutes.
If temp below 41 F, I warm up for about 4-5 minutes.
My 2006 Toyota Camry V6 just pass 200,000 miles. No check engine light. My car only seem mechanic 1 time in 4 years for timing belt, water pump, drive belt, transmission oil, coolant, spark plug, air filter, thermostat. ( only cost $600 at local shop).
So I think it is good to warm up your car for about 2 minutes.
Start it and go!!! No sense wasting time or gas, my past cars have gone 300k miles on this formula and still run well.
I do have about a mile of easy residential driving before the interstate on ramp - and its a long one that allows easy acceleration to speed with light throttle application.
Side note: If you are cold, buy a better coat! The HWY patrol noted last winter that remote car starters were encouraging lots of motorists unto the road with only very light coats..... then making emergency rescue calls after their cars were disabled, ditched, whatever.... converting ordinary winter driving conditions into emergencys.
I do have about a mile of easy residential driving before the interstate on ramp - and its a long one that allows easy acceleration to speed with light throttle application.
Side note: If you are cold, buy a better coat! The HWY patrol noted last winter that remote car starters were encouraging lots of motorists unto the road with only very light coats..... then making emergency rescue calls after their cars were disabled, ditched, whatever.... converting ordinary winter driving conditions into emergencys.
Everyone knows that if the oil doesn't reach exactly 212F before you put the transmission into drive/reverse the engine will fail within the next 100 miles.
Originally Posted By: subiedriver
If its sub zero, I like to give it a couple of minutes, my Subie has piston slap and under load it sounds like the motor is coming apart, lol. Once its warmed up, it purrs like a kitten.
My Subaru has horrible piston slap. If its cold, it'll sound like a rod bearing went bad!
But if I'm in a rush and don't have time to warm up, I just upshift really early and try to stay below 3000RPM.
Well, either way, warmed up or not, if it's the first drive of the day, I upshift early, trying to stay below 3000RPM. Although the owners manual states that high-revving is only allowed when the temp gauge is around the middle, I still drive soft for the first 10-15 min on first drive of the day.
Other than that, I'll sometimes hit my redline just for ****s and giggles. Also, love the sound of that Subaru boxer engine!
If its sub zero, I like to give it a couple of minutes, my Subie has piston slap and under load it sounds like the motor is coming apart, lol. Once its warmed up, it purrs like a kitten.
My Subaru has horrible piston slap. If its cold, it'll sound like a rod bearing went bad!
But if I'm in a rush and don't have time to warm up, I just upshift really early and try to stay below 3000RPM.
Well, either way, warmed up or not, if it's the first drive of the day, I upshift early, trying to stay below 3000RPM. Although the owners manual states that high-revving is only allowed when the temp gauge is around the middle, I still drive soft for the first 10-15 min on first drive of the day.
Other than that, I'll sometimes hit my redline just for ****s and giggles. Also, love the sound of that Subaru boxer engine!
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I remember reading (here maybe?) that Ford recommends 10 seconds or so unless it's really cold...like Northern Canada cold. I usually let it go about 20-30 seconds max. when the temp is below freezing and then take it easy until the temp gauge is reading normal.
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Depends on the vehicle.
I know for myself,I will start the Explorer,and I will not budge until the idle drops to around 1000rpm.There's no way I'm moving or dropping the transmission into gear,when the idle is @ 2000rpm or above.
You make a good point, that is an automatic specific rule.. Not an issue with manual trans. I just start, put in gear, go
Depends on the vehicle.
I know for myself,I will start the Explorer,and I will not budge until the idle drops to around 1000rpm.There's no way I'm moving or dropping the transmission into gear,when the idle is @ 2000rpm or above.
You make a good point, that is an automatic specific rule.. Not an issue with manual trans. I just start, put in gear, go
If the car needs to be cleaned off, I'll start it then scrape or brush. If it doesn't, pretty much start and go. I usually turn the ignition on, fasten belt while fuel system pressurizes then start. I don't wait any specific time, idle comes down quickly then maybe a few seconds. I just don't push it too hard till it's warmed up, usually 3000 RPM max.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Depends on the vehicle.
I know for myself,I will start the Explorer,and I will not budge until the idle drops to around 1000rpm.There's no way I'm moving or dropping the transmission into gear,when the idle is @ 2000rpm or above.
You make a good point, that is an automatic specific rule.. Not an issue with manual trans. I just start, put in gear, go
I still don't like letting up a clutch with an engine spinning at 1500-2000 rpms either. I'd rather wait until it comes off the fast idle. JMO
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Depends on the vehicle.
I know for myself,I will start the Explorer,and I will not budge until the idle drops to around 1000rpm.There's no way I'm moving or dropping the transmission into gear,when the idle is @ 2000rpm or above.
You make a good point, that is an automatic specific rule.. Not an issue with manual trans. I just start, put in gear, go
I still don't like letting up a clutch with an engine spinning at 1500-2000 rpms either. I'd rather wait until it comes off the fast idle. JMO
Wow, I'm shocked.
Usually when we have these warm up threads I'm almost all by myself in the "start it and immediately start driving conservatively" camp. Weird.
My current car is at 1998 BMW 528 sport driven year round. It always gets start-then-drive treatment. It's tight, consumes no oil, has great performance and fuel economy, and the UOAs show almost no wear (including from the winter). It warms up very fast when being driven and not at all if you just leave it idling.
I don't see it getting any better than I've experienced in terms of wear or longevity with these winter habits (which are also what the owner's manual says to do, for what that's worth). Following what seems to be common German convention, there is no "fast idle" to worry about. They fire off the cats using other methods.
Usually when we have these warm up threads I'm almost all by myself in the "start it and immediately start driving conservatively" camp. Weird.
My current car is at 1998 BMW 528 sport driven year round. It always gets start-then-drive treatment. It's tight, consumes no oil, has great performance and fuel economy, and the UOAs show almost no wear (including from the winter). It warms up very fast when being driven and not at all if you just leave it idling.
I don't see it getting any better than I've experienced in terms of wear or longevity with these winter habits (which are also what the owner's manual says to do, for what that's worth). Following what seems to be common German convention, there is no "fast idle" to worry about. They fire off the cats using other methods.
I'm more concerned with the drive train than the engine when its cold out. Once the engine oil is moving driving easily is a good thing. It is slamming the transmission into gear, or slipping the clutch at higher than normal rpms that concerns me. When the tach hits 1000 rpms I'm comfortable putting an AT into Drive or Reverse, or letting my clutch up to take off.
What counts is splash lubrication.
The crank (and most cam) bearings are pressure lubricated. But the pistons, rings and bores are splash lubricated.
I once watched oil getting splashed around a motorcycle engine with a clear inspection window on the camshaft drive. It took about 15-20 seconds for it to be covered in oil.
So, I'd say, based on that experience, one should let an engine run 15-20 seconds before you drive off. That's the time taken to buckle up and check mirrors.
The crank (and most cam) bearings are pressure lubricated. But the pistons, rings and bores are splash lubricated.
I once watched oil getting splashed around a motorcycle engine with a clear inspection window on the camshaft drive. It took about 15-20 seconds for it to be covered in oil.
So, I'd say, based on that experience, one should let an engine run 15-20 seconds before you drive off. That's the time taken to buckle up and check mirrors.
I'd always done the same as many--start the car, let it warm for 30 seconds or so, then take off and drive somewhat gently for a while.
I just got a car that has an oil temp gauge though, and was surprised at how long it takes the oil to even reach human body temperature when the outside temp is in the 30s. It took a few minutes for the oil temp to even budge at that ambient temp. And of course that doesn't include transmission or PS fluid. So I may let my car warm up a bit more this winter before putting any load on it.
I just got a car that has an oil temp gauge though, and was surprised at how long it takes the oil to even reach human body temperature when the outside temp is in the 30s. It took a few minutes for the oil temp to even budge at that ambient temp. And of course that doesn't include transmission or PS fluid. So I may let my car warm up a bit more this winter before putting any load on it.
I am not aware of a single contemporary automobile engine in ANY car that uses splash lubrication for the piston, rings, bores, etc.
Can anyone name one?
Most automakers go to great lengths to isolate the spinning crank from the oil and avoid splash, as it wastes power/economy.
Can anyone name one?
Most automakers go to great lengths to isolate the spinning crank from the oil and avoid splash, as it wastes power/economy.
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