I change my oil filter every OCI but change my plugs every other OCI.
Spark Plugs! - This belongs in the oil forums!
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Originally Posted By: rw19
So we have beat the old mobil 1 vs castrol vs pennzoil to death, I have a new topic for the BITOG crew. Do you change your oil after you do your plugs?
I always do I don't want the crud going into the block and recrulating till the pesky filter gets to it.!
Ummmm....
If there's a way for any crud to get from the spark plugs to the oil, you've got far bigger things to worry about. Like a hole in a piston.
The ONE exception might be a vehicle with spark plug "tubes" through the valve covers that are actually held in place by the spark plugs rather than by separate fasteners...but I can't think of an example newer than the 1960s.
So we have beat the old mobil 1 vs castrol vs pennzoil to death, I have a new topic for the BITOG crew. Do you change your oil after you do your plugs?
I always do I don't want the crud going into the block and recrulating till the pesky filter gets to it.!
Ummmm....
If there's a way for any crud to get from the spark plugs to the oil, you've got far bigger things to worry about. Like a hole in a piston.
The ONE exception might be a vehicle with spark plug "tubes" through the valve covers that are actually held in place by the spark plugs rather than by separate fasteners...but I can't think of an example newer than the 1960s.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Lots of v6 minivan owners would be right there with ya. But maybe only a 6-pack required, since the plugs don't generally break off in the head on minivans
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Lots of v6 minivan owners would be right there with ya. But maybe only a 6-pack required, since the plugs don't generally break off in the head on minivans
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
WHOA! You have a V8 with 16 spark plugs? WTH?
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
WHOA! You have a V8 with 16 spark plugs? WTH?
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
WHOA! You have a V8 with 16 spark plugs? WTH?
This engine uses two different types of spark plugs. A total of 16 plugs are used. The plugs are mounted in two rows (banks). The upper row (5) is used on the intake valve side of the cylinder head. The lower row (6) is used on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder head.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I'm not looking forward to changing the plugs on my Ram 4.7, honestly. And its due for the 8 upper plugs. The 8 lower plugs are rated for 100k miles, but they only put 30k rated plugs in the uppers. Seems like a ridiculous way to save a few pennies. :-/
WHOA! You have a V8 with 16 spark plugs? WTH?
This engine uses two different types of spark plugs. A total of 16 plugs are used. The plugs are mounted in two rows (banks). The upper row (5) is used on the intake valve side of the cylinder head. The lower row (6) is used on the exhaust valve side of the cylinder head.
I had a Nissan truck with a 4 banger that had 2 plugs per cylinder. But 16.....
Originally Posted By: rw19
So we have beat the old mobil 1 vs castrol vs pennzoil to death, I have a new topic for the BITOG crew. Do you change your oil after you do your plugs?
I always do I don't want the crud going into the block and recrulating till the pesky filter gets to it.
Chime in, I have yet to find any topics like this on the internet. I know a lot of us soak our plugs in penetrating fluid to get them out easier, this also drips into the oil. Penetrating fluid is more solvent than a lubricant, and do you guys use never seeze after you install the plugs? I used too, but then again that probably seeps into the oil as well and god knows whats in that!
You are making a mistake to start with. Never use penetrating oil or any other kind of oil on the spark-plug threads.
If you do, you will overtorque them, possibly break them, and will have difficulty removing them next time.
Spark plugs must be installed with cleaned and dried threads -- no oil whatsoever. You need to then torque them using a torque wrench to the specified torque. Never overtorque them, which could break them. You should never need penetrating oil when removing them. If there is a problem, it means that someone overtorqued them -- not good. Again, if you use oil on the threads when you install the spark plugs, you will end up overtorquing them.
So we have beat the old mobil 1 vs castrol vs pennzoil to death, I have a new topic for the BITOG crew. Do you change your oil after you do your plugs?
I always do I don't want the crud going into the block and recrulating till the pesky filter gets to it.
Chime in, I have yet to find any topics like this on the internet. I know a lot of us soak our plugs in penetrating fluid to get them out easier, this also drips into the oil. Penetrating fluid is more solvent than a lubricant, and do you guys use never seeze after you install the plugs? I used too, but then again that probably seeps into the oil as well and god knows whats in that!
You are making a mistake to start with. Never use penetrating oil or any other kind of oil on the spark-plug threads.
If you do, you will overtorque them, possibly break them, and will have difficulty removing them next time.
Spark plugs must be installed with cleaned and dried threads -- no oil whatsoever. You need to then torque them using a torque wrench to the specified torque. Never overtorque them, which could break them. You should never need penetrating oil when removing them. If there is a problem, it means that someone overtorqued them -- not good. Again, if you use oil on the threads when you install the spark plugs, you will end up overtorquing them.
Anything that falls into the hole should be blown out the exhaust I would think when it fires up the first time.
the recommendations I've seen is to use anti seize on plug threads. Anti seize is conductive. Go easy tightening plugs. I'd much rather have one pop out from vibration than deal with a stripped head.
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Originally Posted By: gokhan
You are making a mistake to start with. Never use penetrating oil or any other kind of oil on the spark-plug threads.
If you do, you will overtorque them, possibly break them, and will have difficulty removing them next time.
Spark plugs must be installed with cleaned and dried threads -- no oil whatsoever. You need to then torque them using a torque wrench to the specified torque. Never overtorque them, which could break them. You should never need penetrating oil when removing them. If there is a problem, it means that someone overtorqued them -- not good. Again, if you use oil on the threads when you install the spark plugs, you will end up overtorquing them.
I changed the original plugs on my Accord at 166K miles and sprayed some PB Blaster into the wells the night before to assist with removal. 10K miles later, my new plugs haven't blown up due to the PB Blaster.
As far as changing the oil, OP is being a little paranoid.
You are making a mistake to start with. Never use penetrating oil or any other kind of oil on the spark-plug threads.
If you do, you will overtorque them, possibly break them, and will have difficulty removing them next time.
Spark plugs must be installed with cleaned and dried threads -- no oil whatsoever. You need to then torque them using a torque wrench to the specified torque. Never overtorque them, which could break them. You should never need penetrating oil when removing them. If there is a problem, it means that someone overtorqued them -- not good. Again, if you use oil on the threads when you install the spark plugs, you will end up overtorquing them.
I changed the original plugs on my Accord at 166K miles and sprayed some PB Blaster into the wells the night before to assist with removal. 10K miles later, my new plugs haven't blown up due to the PB Blaster.
As far as changing the oil, OP is being a little paranoid.
No lubricant of any kind should ever be used on spark-plug threads, as it results in overtightening because of the reduction in the friction. Spark-plug threads should be clean and dry, free of any lubricant. They should never be overtightened to begin with.
See the instructions and cautions from Nippondenso, the manufacturer of the very best spark plugs in the world. They explicitly caution that no lubricant should be used on the threads:
See the instructions and cautions from Nippondenso, the manufacturer of the very best spark plugs in the world. They explicitly caution that no lubricant should be used on the threads:
If you have steel non coated plugs and aluminum heads there is a galvanic action that takes place which can weld the plugs in.
Yeah, I feel more comfortable putting anti seize on the steel plug going into an aluminum head.
However, you just need to adjust your torque down a lot. I should check, but I didn't tighten mine more than hand tight and they were tight last time I checked. I didn't even use the ratchet - just my fingers and the extension/socket.
However, you just need to adjust your torque down a lot. I should check, but I didn't tighten mine more than hand tight and they were tight last time I checked. I didn't even use the ratchet - just my fingers and the extension/socket.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Yeah, I feel more comfortable putting anti seize on the steel plug going into an aluminum head.
However, you just need to adjust your torque down a lot. I should check, but I didn't tighten mine more than hand tight and they were tight last time I checked. I didn't even use the ratchet - just my fingers and the extension/socket.
I usually tighten mine until I see the back end of the car/truck just starting to move sideways.
Yeah, I feel more comfortable putting anti seize on the steel plug going into an aluminum head.
However, you just need to adjust your torque down a lot. I should check, but I didn't tighten mine more than hand tight and they were tight last time I checked. I didn't even use the ratchet - just my fingers and the extension/socket.
I usually tighten mine until I see the back end of the car/truck just starting to move sideways.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Revised 3Vs heads which used a 1 piece spark plug were released in 2008.
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Revised 3Vs heads which used a 1 piece spark plug were released in 2008.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
No lubricant of any kind should ever be used on spark-plug threads, as it results in overtightening because of the reduction in the friction.
"All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize."
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
No lubricant of any kind should ever be used on spark-plug threads, as it results in overtightening because of the reduction in the friction.
"All spark plugs that have a blackened or dull appearance on the metal body offer no protection against seizing or bonding to the cylinder head and so it is with these spark plugs that anti-seize would be required. A spark plug that has a shiny silver appearance on the metal body usually indicates that the plug is manufactured with metal shell plating and therefore will not require anti-seize."
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Revised 3Vs heads which used a 1 piece spark plug were released in 2008.
I thought it was 2009 which would have made the 2010 the 1st year. Thanx for the information.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
F150 owners with the 3 valve 5.4 engines, built before 2010, usually drink a case of beer before, during, and after a spark plug change.
Revised 3Vs heads which used a 1 piece spark plug were released in 2008.
I thought it was 2009 which would have made the 2010 the 1st year. Thanx for the information.
Very good tech bulletin, Ramblejam, thanks. Few people probably buy really cheap spark plugs without plating or reuse their old spark plugs after cleaning and regapping them. For those, it could be a good idea to use an antiseize lubricant; otherwise, it's not:
If those plugs twisted apart because lube was put on them and torqued to the recommended spec......then they're junk.
I believe those plugs are getting twisted off because of the recommended torque angles in their spec sheet. That's like almost no one can get an oil filter to go 3/4 turn after the gasket touches without way over torqueing. Its a really bad way to specify a fastener torque.
Here's an aircraft company that sells Champion brand anti seize. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ch-2612.html
I don't think there is any right or wrong answer on this. Do what makes you comfortable.
I believe those plugs are getting twisted off because of the recommended torque angles in their spec sheet. That's like almost no one can get an oil filter to go 3/4 turn after the gasket touches without way over torqueing. Its a really bad way to specify a fastener torque.
Here's an aircraft company that sells Champion brand anti seize. http://www.chiefaircraft.com/ch-2612.html
I don't think there is any right or wrong answer on this. Do what makes you comfortable.
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