Soviet generator revival (2 stroke/military)

P

Peandas

Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
43
Dear friends!
My first post after so many years of giving life to my engines from all your knowledge here on the forums.

So i got this old 1990 Russian/USSR military two stroke genny.. I would like it to work as good as it looks..
- What ratio of oil do you recommend?
-What is that screw where normally you would find the spark plug?
- Apart from pre-lubing the cylinder, any other service advice?(will clean carb/tank install filter).
- BTW what is the MΩ (resistance?) gauge for?
 

Attachments

  • 7DD7A194-1C78-4215-8D11-82899180F896.jpeg
    7DD7A194-1C78-4215-8D11-82899180F896.jpeg
    141.5 KB · Views: 271
  • 58DE86A2-4A14-47D7-BD1E-576A03347B86.jpeg
    58DE86A2-4A14-47D7-BD1E-576A03347B86.jpeg
    127.8 KB · Views: 279
  • 5BC27E7D-6BC8-4229-B010-3929DCE924CB.jpeg
    5BC27E7D-6BC8-4229-B010-3929DCE924CB.jpeg
    91.9 KB · Views: 271
  • 59F3B806-D1F1-46C0-9958-C252A63A2E80.jpeg
    59F3B806-D1F1-46C0-9958-C252A63A2E80.jpeg
    113.9 KB · Views: 263
  • C3289AD8-9647-4327-B089-FF559D4D3CC5.jpeg
    C3289AD8-9647-4327-B089-FF559D4D3CC5.jpeg
    87.7 KB · Views: 250
  • F4C76539-68D2-4754-9301-6D1EBA3F92A7.jpeg
    F4C76539-68D2-4754-9301-6D1EBA3F92A7.jpeg
    136.3 KB · Views: 260
The screw in the top of the cylinder would be a compression relief for easier starting. Crack it open to start then close it to run.

Looks to be built for 220 volts 50 Hz, which is the Russian standard for wall outlets.
 
Last edited:
Motorcycle stuff like Bel-Ray SI-7 or Silkolene. Probably calls for a rich ratio but 50:1 is fine with the new synthetics.

Old-school mineral can be used, as long as it meets TCW-3 and JASO spec.
 
I never saw one of those before, but unlike what mk378 said, I would bet that it actually is a Diesel engine. The screw on top would be for tuning the compression ratio. The plug with the white insulator would be a resistor heater for starting when ambient air temperature is cold. It may have a prime method where you press something ( usually a small rubber bulb ) that injects a little bit of oil from the sump as fuel because when starting oil from the sump actually burns easier than Diesel fuel.

If you can remove the plug with the white insulator and it is not a spark-plug with a gap, but instead is a resistive heater that would confirm it is a diesel. You may be able to confirm that is a resistive heater with an ohm meter set to very low resistance scale to measure from the top of that plug to the case to show that it is a resistor without having to remove it.

If what I suspect is true and it is a Diesel with an oil start prime, the questions would be:

1) What conventional oil should you put in the sump that will both protect the moving parts and burn easy for starting? You would want a Diesel rated oil with a low ( not a high ) flash point temperature. You want it to burn easy during starting when it is the fuel.

2) What voltage should you apply to the resistive heater on cold days?

3) What Voltage does it make:

3a ) AC or DC

3b) Howmany Volts

3c) if it is AC is it single like 120, or multi voltage like 120, 120, and 240,

3d) if it is AC what frequency,

3e) if it is AC is it multi-phase like 3 phase or any other number of phases ( 2, 4, or some other )
 
Last edited:
Many years ago Diesel generators used to power highway construction signs in the United States use to use an oil start prime that used a very small amount of oil from the sump to prime the engine for starting because the oil would burn easier than Diesel fuel during starting when the cylinder was not yet up to running temperature.
 
Last edited:
I finally got the picture with the meters to blowup. Definitely 50 Hz AC very likely around 160 Volts. But if that was peak Volts it still could be around 110 to 120 Volts RMS. Don't forget you have to multiply RMS times the square-root of 2 to get peak. Or divide peak by the square-root of 2 to get RMS.
 
Last edited:
Jetronic said:
the M ohm gauge is to test the wiring for shortcircuits, for whatever you have plugged in. But only the wiring, no actual loads. Measures resistance to ground or between the 2 leads
Click to expand...
Perhaps it had specific use in the military back then?
 
JimPghPA said:
I finally got the picture with the meters to blowup. Definitely 50 Hz AC very likely around 160 Volts. But if that was peak Volts it still could be around 110 to 120 Volts RMS. Don't forget you have to multiply RMS times the square-root of 2 to get peak. Or divide peak by the square-root of 2 to get RMS.
Click to expand...
For sure its a 220/240V 50hz.. Im also on the other side of the pond, so its more useful like that anyway for me.
 
JimPghPA said:
I never saw one of those before, but unlike what mk378 said, I would bet that it actually is a Diesel engine. The screw on top would be for tuning the compression ratio. The plug with the white insulator would be a resistor heater for starting when ambient air temperature is cold. It may have a prime method where you press something ( usually a small rubber bulb ) that injects a little bit of oil from the sump as fuel because when starting oil from the sump actually burns easier than Diesel fuel.

If you can remove the plug with the white insulator and it is not a spark-plug with a gap, but instead is a resistive heater that would confirm it is a diesel. You may be able to confirm that is a resistive heater with an ohm meter set to very low resistance scale to measure from the top of that plug to the case to show that it is a resistor without having to remove it.

If what I suspect is true and it is a Diesel with an oil start prime, the questions would be:

1) What conventional oil should you put in the sump that will both protect the moving parts and burn easy for starting? You would want a Diesel rated oil with a low ( not a high ) flash point temperature. You want it to burn easy during starting when it is the fuel.

2) What voltage should you apply to the resistive heater on cold days?

3) What Voltage does it make:

3a ) AC or DC

3b) Howmany Volts

3c) if it is AC is it single like 120, or multi voltage like 120, 120, and 240,

3d) if it is AC what frequency,

3e) if it is AC is it multi-phase like 3 phase or any other number of phases ( 2, 4, or some other )
Click to expand...
Wilco on your great advice, will check, photograph and get back to you. Thanks for the great insight.
 
No diesel, don't seem to see room for an injector but shielded HT lead and a tank on a carb or so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
86 Mercury 50hp 2 stroke will not run!
Replies
11
Views
2K
BrocLuno
CourierDriver
Gun oil article
2 3
Replies
40
Views
28K
wpod
M
2 stroke oil in a 4stroke engine's fuel
2
Replies
30
Views
34K
tblt44
P
  • Locked
Two Stroke Engine Trouble Shoot.
Replies
8
Views
3K
Panzerman
1
  • Locked
help get 9.9hp mercury 2-stroke running
Replies
7
Views
7K
AVB
Back
Top