Sluggish clutch pedal == Summer gear oil?

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The cold weather is making my Honda's clutch pedal move in slow motion. Is it possible my car has "summer" gear oil instead of winter oil? It's supposed to be the stock Honda oil, but who knows what the stealer put in there. (He didn't use Honda engine oil either... it was Valvoline.)

In the meantime I will just warm-up the engine/gears prior to driving.
 
No, gear oil has nothing to do with the clutch. Most hydraulic clutches use brake fluid.
 
You may have moisture in the fluid... Brake fluid systems (and clutches) accumulate water over time. It should be flushed and replaced every two years or so at least. I'd do a flush and replace on the fluid and see if it changes...
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
You may have moisture in the fluid... Brake fluid systems (and clutches) accumulate water over time. It should be flushed and replaced every two years or so at least. I'd do a flush and replace on the fluid and see if it changes...


This. Almost all cars use brake fluid for their clutches. If it's been a while or it's never been changed I would definitely change and bleed the brake fluid.
 
As others have mentioned, brake fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb moisture over time.


I use ATE superblue for all my brake and clutch systems. Works perfect in extreme cold.

Hopefully you have somewhere warm to bleed it out.
grin.gif


You should run the same gear oil through all seasons.

In fact, without knowing what model or year your Honda is, you could have a cable clutch line instead of hydrolic and the cable is binding with the cold.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
In fact, without knowing what model or year your Honda is, you could have a cable clutch line instead of hydrolic and the cable is binding with the cold.

2003 Civic hybrid. The cable binding actually makes more sense, since there's no issue above 30 degrees, and brakes are working perfectly.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg

I use ATE superblue for all my brake and clutch systems. Works perfect in extreme cold.



Where do you get ATE superblue from?
 
Originally Posted By: veryHeavy
Originally Posted By: jayg
In fact, without knowing what model or year your Honda is, you could have a cable clutch line instead of hydrolic and the cable is binding with the cold.

2003 Civic hybrid. The cable binding actually makes more sense, since there's no issue above 30 degrees, and brakes are working perfectly.


I know 25 years ago Honda used some cable clutches but your 2003 probably has a hydraulic clutch with no cable linkage. In that case I would bleed it and use a quality fluid, like the ATE DOT brake fluid.

I have actually boiled DOT 3 after very hard driving in my 240Z. The ATE in the brakes and clutch and it never happened again.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: jayg

I use ATE superblue for all my brake and clutch systems. Works perfect in extreme cold.



Where do you get ATE superblue from?


ECS Tuning but sometimes Oreillys/Napa can carry it actually.
 
veryHeavy, although the clutch and brake systems both use "brake fluid", they are separate systems. The fluid from one doesn't mix with the fluid from the other.

As others have said, replace the clutch system fluid. The guess is that the fluid has absorbed water ("hygroscopic") and turned your clutch fluid into slush below 32 degrees.

If you do it yourself, buy what's labeled "brake fluid" at the store. But be careful; brake fluid is very corrosive. You don't want to spill any. It's also toxic, so be sure to dispose of it properly.
 
Originally Posted By: grumpyoldman
veryHeavy, although the clutch and brake systems both use "brake fluid", they are separate systems. The fluid from one doesn't mix with the fluid from the other.


Although typically not, it does in some cars. My ECHO has a common reservoir.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: grumpyoldman
veryHeavy, although the clutch and brake systems both use "brake fluid", they are separate systems. The fluid from one doesn't mix with the fluid from the other.


Although typically not, it does in some cars. My ECHO has a common reservoir.


As well as many older vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: jayg

I use ATE superblue for all my brake and clutch systems. Works perfect in extreme cold.



Where do you get ATE superblue from?


ECS Tuning but sometimes Oreillys/Napa can carry it actually.


AFAIK it was banned in 2013 have you purchased any recently?
 
Just an FYI, Dot 3 will have better cold flow than Dot4+ if you flush the brake fluid (which is likely the clutch fluid too).
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: jayg

I use ATE superblue for all my brake and clutch systems. Works perfect in extreme cold.



Where do you get ATE superblue from?


ECS Tuning but sometimes Oreillys/Napa can carry it actually.


AFAIK it was banned in 2013 have you purchased any recently?


I was just about comment on the same thing; banned in the US due to non-compliance with FMVSS. ATE 200 is supposedly the same thing (without blue dye), and specs out at:

Minimum Dry Boiling Point 536°F (280°C).
Minimum Wet Boiling Point 388°F (198°C).
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
I know 25 years ago Honda used some cable clutches but your 2003 probably has a hydraulic clutch with no cable linkage. In that case I would bleed it and use a quality fluid, like the ATE DOT brake fluid.

FIRST thanks everyone for the advice. Two, the manual says absolutely nothing about "change clutch fluid". It simply says check the level, and if it's low then add more brake fluid. It says nothing about change-out.

Considering the car spent 3 years in the Vegas and California desert, I would think any water would be sucked-out by the extreme dry climate. (Or that the driving of the car would heat the fluid.) I remember one time I spilled a cooler of water in my car, which created a small pond, but it had disappeared by the next morning. Completely dry both on top & underneath the carpet.



(shrug) I'll ask the stealer for an opinion... of course I already know the answer: "Yes sir you should change the clutch fluid. And the brakes. And the trans. Also we'll do the radiator flush. That will be a mere $400."
wink.gif


ASIDE: Last time I went to a stealer he tried to "resurface" my brake discs, and I said no. He became very stern saying, "You MUST do this procedure, or you might be unhappy with your new brake pads. It WILL vibrate." I didn't enjoy being talked to like a scolded schoolboy, so I asked for the difference in price, which was about $50, so I said "no". 30,000 miles later and I feel no vibration or other flaws that the guy warned me about..... just trying to pad the bill with not-needed work.
 
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