Seepage from Power Steering Reservoir

[Shel_B]

Before I tear into this, I'd like some idea of what to expect. The hoses seem to be secure, and it looks like the seepage is coming from somewhere on the reservoir itself. Is that possible? Maybe a small crack?

I cleaned the area as best I could this morning with the hope of seeing where the seepage is coming from. You'll note that there's a bit of a mess on the fender below the reservoir, so it may need attention in the very near future.

What's the best way to fix this? I'm thinking a new reservoir and replacing the hoses and clamps is the way to go. I'm definitely open to a less expensive and time-consuming approach. Has anyone dealt with this problem on their Camry, and how did you fix it? I understand this is not an uncommon issue, especially on a 10yo+ car.

 

[GSCJR]

There's nothing to fix, just top it off (ATF) and stop looking for problems that are not there.

 

[MattPersman]

Yep that’s a leave it be “repair” not worth it by any means

 

[GSCJR]

Yep that’s a leave it be “repair” not worth it by any means

More like an "adjustment"!

 

[Tomioka]

I find the return hose (small diameter) to be brittle from age (especially if it's the original hose) and they start weeping. Replacing it with a cut to length ATF hose should fix that.

LOL some of you guys love leaks and staining places wherever you park. That **** gets written up instantly when operating a commercial vehicle.

 

[Shel_B]

I find the return hose (small diameter) to be brittle from age (especially if it's the original hose) and they start weeping. Replacing it with a cut to length ATF hose should fix that.

LOL some of you guys love leaks and staining places wherever you park. That **** gets written up instantly when operating a commercial vehicle.

I don't need or want a mess, nor do I want to make a long trip as is planned for late spring and early summer, and have to be concerned with topping up my reservoir or having the seep turn into a leak.

I'll look into getting some hose and give your suggestion a try. Are the clamps reusable? I seem to recall that some style clamps don't lend themselves well to being reused.

Thanks for jumping in.

 

[mk378]

Yes it looks like the smaller hose is turning into a sponge and seeping all along its length. The plastic reservoir is probably fine.

Those spring clamps are absolutely reusable and the preferred type of clamp to use, but they are matched to the OD of the hose so if you use generic hose it may not fit.

 

[wpod]

Clean the dirty areas ,let it dry and inspect in a few days.

 

[Tomioka]

Are the clamps reusable? I seem to recall that some style clamps don't lend themselves well to being reused.

Universal ATF hose have thinner walls than the factory hose so the spring clamps won't clamp as well. When I did the same to my Tundra I used German style worm clamps and called it a day.

 

[MattPersman]

If that ever even made a drop of fluid on the ground yet that would be amazing. Likely look the same 5 years from now

 

[Greasymechtech]

PSF level is low.

Not known if leakage or splash from refilling/filling.

Siphon out the old, refill with HM ATF if it takes dex equivalent, like Maxlife synthetic, Simplegreen and hose off all that crud, and monitor for leakage. If it takes PSF, and it looks like red ATF, then use a full synthetic PSF... like Gunk, Prestone, Bardahl..

 

[supton]

Pretty minor leak, IMO. Just top off the fluid.

I had the same problem. My fix? Take a pair of pliers and move the clamp to the right in your photo. Like most fittings, there is a barb at the end of the plastic fitting. Move the clamp towards it. The rubber under the clamp right now has shrunk a bit--if you take the clamp and move it away, you'd see the imprint of the clamp. Getting onto fresh rubber will have it "thicker" under the clamp, and the clamp will do its job. Move towards the barb a bit, doesn't have to be on the barb, just someplace where the clamp can be felt to be doing something.

 

[vavavroom]

I wonder if the hose barb has a fine crack, maybe even along a mold line. While this happens more often with a screw clamp it can happen with a constant tension clamp. Old plastic likes to crack. I'd suck out some fluid until I can pull off the hose without fluid leaking and then I'd inspect the hose barb for damage.

 

[blufeb95]

The return hose appears to be quite rotted, just replace it first, I'd say replacing the reservoir is a good idea but, the Toyota one is ridiculously expensive, I've replaced a similar style reservoir on an Honda and it was well under $20 not $70+ like the Toyota.

 

[atikovi]

The reservoir from Toyota is over $200 and the hoses about $80 each.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Looks like the hose; is that the high pressure or low pressure? I think it's the high pressure hose, but I haven't worked on that car. They get brittle and leak.
Probably not cheap, as others have said. The spring clamps should be fine.

You MIGHT wanna try using 1 or 2 full circumference hose clamps, not too tight. If not, my guess is you need a new hose. Ultimately the right fix is the best fix...
Good luck.

 

[Nukeman7]

Shel,

I just replaced a P/S reservoir on a similar vintage Accord that was exhibiting the same exact condition. I started by replacing the clamps, then both hoses. After the seepage continued to migrate out, I finally resolved the leak by replacing the reservoir with an aftermarket unit. I could not detect any hairline crack or deformities on the old leaking unit. Here is a cost effective option for your Camry.

 

[Nick1994]

Degreaser, brush it, then hit it with the pressure washer at the quarter car wash and see how bad it is.

My Camry's has looked like that for years. I've topped it off once, maybe twice.

 

[Shel_B]

Degreaser, brush it, then hit it with the pressure washer at the quarter car wash and see how bad it is.

My Camry's has looked like that for years. I've topped it off once, maybe twice.

I've already cleaned it. I know how much I've lost in the past couple of months but I don't have a clear picture of the rate of loss. It needs to be repaired and, based on what's been said here, I've decided to replace the hose and clamps when the car's on the lift for its next oil change, which won't be too far off. Meanwhile, I'll top off the reservoir and clean around the area so I can better monitor the seepage or leak. I won't let it go unrepaired as some have suggested. Thanks for jumping in.

 

[AZjeff]

If there's any slack in that wet hose you could take it off and nip 1/2" off and push it back on and reuse the clamp. I just did this, I had a drip and it fixed it. In my case it was the return line. A turkey baster works great to empty the tank. Put fresh back in. Constant tension clamps are better than worm drive.