On my carbureted Ford 302 V8, I always pull off the crankcase breather filter and the air filter to tune the carburetor and engine.
Sometimes I leave it like this for 30 min or more.
23 years later the engine runs like new.
In NJ, the air is VERY harsh and nasty. my air filters become opaque after 1 year w/ dirt, cotton fiber, pollen, and insects.
Of course I don't have any Amsoil-like figures and charts to prove how whatever filter I use is best. I just know frequent maintenance is the key thing to keeping your car alive as long as possible. The quality of the product comes next.
For what its worth, I've never heard of an engine failure due to the installation of a K&N. In fact, it will NOT void factory warranty if you use a K&N filter. Ford even used K&N's on some of their high end factory engines.
Just because its not amsoil doesn't make it absolute garbage.
The pre-wrap is used to keep your filter clean in dusty conditions preventing the absolute need to constantly wash the filter.
On my HEPA filter, it has a carbon pre-filter that's less expensive to replace. It catches a LOT of large particles that would otherwise clog the expensive HEPA filter. Instead, I just toss a $2 pre-filter and use the $20 HEPA filter for a year.
Same thing with the panty-hose pre-filter on the K&N. Since you're limited to about 25 washings, a pre-filter will keep your filter cleaner than normal in dusty environments. You just clean the pre-filter and tap out the K&N.
On my K&N filters, I tap them out every 6-12 months. For paper filters in the SAME operating environment, I have to toss them every year!!!!!
And BTW, it costs $16 for a new paper filter for the 2003 E-250. My Accel Kool Blue was $32. The cost of two paper filters. Its the same model filter used in 96-up GTs and Cobras. I have YET to hear of any problems associated with K&N filters used on these normally aspirated vehicles.
That being said, paper is indeed more efficient than oil cotton gauze, but I have yet to hear, read, or see any hard evidence supporting that K&N filters can kill your engine.
Most of the time, a LOT of dirt seeps through PCV seals, crankcase breather seals, or the filter seals. Its not going to kill your engine because you have an OIL FILTER.
On a lawnmower engine like a Tecumseh for my dad's Sears craftsman mower - there's no oil filter. So if you don't keep an eye on the air filter, and it tears or what not - dirt ingestion WILL KILL the engine due to the fact there's no way to get rid of it via a filter medium.
Change your engine oil frequently and use a decent oil filter. This is the mainr eason why I switched BACK to a dino oil. Running 6 qt of Amsoil + Amsoil oil filter gets way too expensive if you do frequent oil changes.
Sometimes I leave it like this for 30 min or more.
23 years later the engine runs like new.
In NJ, the air is VERY harsh and nasty. my air filters become opaque after 1 year w/ dirt, cotton fiber, pollen, and insects.
Of course I don't have any Amsoil-like figures and charts to prove how whatever filter I use is best. I just know frequent maintenance is the key thing to keeping your car alive as long as possible. The quality of the product comes next.
For what its worth, I've never heard of an engine failure due to the installation of a K&N. In fact, it will NOT void factory warranty if you use a K&N filter. Ford even used K&N's on some of their high end factory engines.
Just because its not amsoil doesn't make it absolute garbage.
The pre-wrap is used to keep your filter clean in dusty conditions preventing the absolute need to constantly wash the filter.
On my HEPA filter, it has a carbon pre-filter that's less expensive to replace. It catches a LOT of large particles that would otherwise clog the expensive HEPA filter. Instead, I just toss a $2 pre-filter and use the $20 HEPA filter for a year.
Same thing with the panty-hose pre-filter on the K&N. Since you're limited to about 25 washings, a pre-filter will keep your filter cleaner than normal in dusty environments. You just clean the pre-filter and tap out the K&N.
On my K&N filters, I tap them out every 6-12 months. For paper filters in the SAME operating environment, I have to toss them every year!!!!!
And BTW, it costs $16 for a new paper filter for the 2003 E-250. My Accel Kool Blue was $32. The cost of two paper filters. Its the same model filter used in 96-up GTs and Cobras. I have YET to hear of any problems associated with K&N filters used on these normally aspirated vehicles.
That being said, paper is indeed more efficient than oil cotton gauze, but I have yet to hear, read, or see any hard evidence supporting that K&N filters can kill your engine.
Most of the time, a LOT of dirt seeps through PCV seals, crankcase breather seals, or the filter seals. Its not going to kill your engine because you have an OIL FILTER.
On a lawnmower engine like a Tecumseh for my dad's Sears craftsman mower - there's no oil filter. So if you don't keep an eye on the air filter, and it tears or what not - dirt ingestion WILL KILL the engine due to the fact there's no way to get rid of it via a filter medium.
Change your engine oil frequently and use a decent oil filter. This is the mainr eason why I switched BACK to a dino oil. Running 6 qt of Amsoil + Amsoil oil filter gets way too expensive if you do frequent oil changes.
