Now that I have read how well 10w30 HDEO's have done in "Dnewton3's" and "arkapig's" duramax pickups...I was wondering if there would be anymore benefit to running a monograde oil such as rotella's straight 30 wt in the summer time only? I am thinking it would be even more shear resistant being formulated with supposedly no VI improvers. I would not think that this oil would pump much slower at startup in summer temps compared to a 15w40 dino? I could be wrong? Has anybody ran this with good results? Thanks in advance....
rotella monograde SAE 30...
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I can't give you a good reason why, but I would not do it.
Johnny, this currently lists only diesel specs on the container but used to be an SJ if I remeber correctly. I don't think SJ is supported anymore, is it? I use this in my summer power equipment (lawn mower, etc).
So you traded heat and tornados for snow and cold? And the Cowboys for Green Bay? The latter may have been a wise decision!!
So you traded heat and tornados for snow and cold? And the Cowboys for Green Bay? The latter may have been a wise decision!!
The Rotella 30W is great for the diesel applications that call for a straight 30W and it is an excellent oil for the lawn and garden industry.
Well, when you put it that way (heat and tornados for snow and cold) it don't sound so bad. As for as football, flip a coin.
Well, when you put it that way (heat and tornados for snow and cold) it don't sound so bad. As for as football, flip a coin.
Since the 10W30s don't shear anyway, the stated reason for wanting to try it doesn't really apply. The 40C (100F) viscosity of 107 cSt and the pour point of -11 kinda tells you something about cool/cold flow.
The 10W30 Rotella is 83 @ 40C with a -40 PP. 15W40 is 120 @40C but still with a -40F PP.
The 10W30 Rotella is 83 @ 40C with a -40 PP. 15W40 is 120 @40C but still with a -40F PP.
I still have some Chevron Delo SAE30 in my stash from a $.99/gal deal back in '05. I run it in my Jeeps and did 10K+ OCI's in my mother's old Kia Rio.
I don't have the specs of the Rotella, but the Delo has a PP of -24*F and produced some great UOA numbers in my trail Jeep (which sees frequent cold starts and trail beatings).
IMO, it is a good 3-season oil and seems to do well when mixed with a quart of 5 or 10W30 in a 5 quart sump of our newer vehicles. I would run the Rotella without hesitation.
I don't have the specs of the Rotella, but the Delo has a PP of -24*F and produced some great UOA numbers in my trail Jeep (which sees frequent cold starts and trail beatings).
IMO, it is a good 3-season oil and seems to do well when mixed with a quart of 5 or 10W30 in a 5 quart sump of our newer vehicles. I would run the Rotella without hesitation.
This is a monograde I really like:
Chevron Delo 300:
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=77109&docFormat=PDF
Respectably low pour point, TBN = 14. It even has an SJ rating. As well as CF/CD of course.
Charlie
Chevron Delo 300:
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=77109&docFormat=PDF
Respectably low pour point, TBN = 14. It even has an SJ rating. As well as CF/CD of course.
Charlie
During summer temps it will work really good. The cpm[any I worked for used Delo 400 straight 30 in their Ford vans, cars, semi trucks ,forklifts and everything else that used motor oil. I worked there 17.5 years anf the engines outlasted the rest of the vehicles. This was in the San Francisco Bay Area so the start up temps were never too cold for 30 wt.
Sorry if this is slightly off topic. Since the new Rotella 30W does NOT have any gasoline rating, could this come back to haunt me using it in commercial lawn mowers that spec. 30W?
dnewton3
Staff member
In a diesel application, it would depend upon the service/use factors.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
In a diesel application, it would depend upon the service/use factors.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
I just acquired a 5 gal bucket of the John Deere 10w30 oil and thinking along the same lines (running it in everything). I think its probably simular to Rotella in quality and additives etc. The only rig I can't use the Deere oil is my daughters 2008 Tacoma.
In a diesel application, it would depend upon the service/use factors.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
I just acquired a 5 gal bucket of the John Deere 10w30 oil and thinking along the same lines (running it in everything). I think its probably simular to Rotella in quality and additives etc. The only rig I can't use the Deere oil is my daughters 2008 Tacoma.
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I have had good luck with single grades over the years, but I live in Southern California. I ran the single grades in company cars that were mostly driven on the coastal plain. I would not drive them in the mountains or Mojave Desert in winter though.
dnewton3
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
In a diesel application, it would depend upon the service/use factors.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
I just acquired a 5 gal bucket of the John Deere 10w30 oil and thinking along the same lines (running it in everything). I think its probably simular to Rotella in quality and additives etc. The only rig I can't use the Deere oil is my daughters 2008 Tacoma.
The Deere lubes typically perform very well.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
In a diesel application, it would depend upon the service/use factors.
If you used a straight grade 30w HDEO in summer, in a hot environment, in a truck that ran many hours, with very few start/stop cycles, then I don't know that I'd see the harm in using the straight grade. The multi-grade's biggest advantage is it's ability to flex with the temps at start up. However, that's a moot point if you're running long hours in a liquid cooled engine, as the "start up wear" is likely incidental. To the opposite direction, if one were to have a lot of short run, cold cycle starts, I would think the multi-grade would prevail.
And, we have a member here that ran 450k miles on his 6.9L IDI Ford on 30-grade LLG, until the truck was stolen. That ought to count for something. Of course, his OCIs were 4k miles, so that is likely a BIG contributor to the success of this example.
OTOH, the 10w30 really doesn't shear much, if at all, in most cases. And it has the current CJ-4 rating that the mono-grade does not (although I haven't checked recently). Heck, I use 10w30 dino Rotella in a lot of my equipment. I even use it in air-cooled L&G stuff, including my Kawasaki v-twin ZTR. I've never brought myself to do a UOA on these small sumps as the cost of the UOA far outweighs the OCI. It's in my 289 Mustang, my GL1800 'Wing, my Kubota, etc.
I guess the question becomes this; what does one expect to gain by using a mono-grade 30 over a 10w30? I have yet to see a 10w30 HDEO fail to perform. The multi-grades offer, overall, more flexibility with essentially no degredation of performance.
Bottom line; in a warm environment it probably won't hurt or help to use a mono-30 over a 10w30, presuming the API specs are covered. There isn't a reall "winner" or "loser" in this topic. It's the subtle distinction of micro-nuances that will likely never be realized in the real world.
I just acquired a 5 gal bucket of the John Deere 10w30 oil and thinking along the same lines (running it in everything). I think its probably simular to Rotella in quality and additives etc. The only rig I can't use the Deere oil is my daughters 2008 Tacoma.
The Deere lubes typically perform very well.
Probably not much more, as the pump would simply bypass when it hits the upper pressure limit.
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