Risk of ATF extraction through dipstick?

Joined
Feb 15, 2021
Messages
118
My son has a 2008 Ford Focus that doesn’t have a drain bolt. I used a fluid extractor through the dipstick to siphon out as much as I could, I topped it off and all is well but while I was shoving the tube down I seem to be pushing past things in the pan area. My question is, can this pop the filter or damage a solenoid or wiring if the tube is pushed in to far? I tried to find a picture of where the dipstick enters the pan area but couldn’t find one.
 
I'm sure there's some risk but I would guess this'd be outweighed by the positive benefit of fresh fluid, assuming you were careful. I did this successfully a number of times in my old Buick. But I never forced the tube in, and used a relatively soft and flexible tube. I'd be gentle (perhaps use a smaller-diameter tube) and not worry about it.
 
Although many vehicles are designed for oil extraction through the ATF dipstick tube not all are so. It depends on the oil pan design.
Some may have to go through the designated "Bolt" or tranny cooler lines, ever more complicated! :rolleyes:
 
Is the filter held in place by the pan? I didn’t use too much force but wasn’t easy on it either, If the filter is held in there I guess I’m not too worried.
 
They make drain bolt kits (Dorman?) if you are willing to remove the pan and drill a 1/2" hole in it.

Many of us have removed transmission pans that have no drain hole. You just need a large enough drain pan and deal with the "red bath" once it starts draining.
 
Other option is to unhook one of the cooler lines, start the car and collect 1-2 quartz, add oil, and repeat.

On some of my cars, this is actually easier than the drain pan. Depends upon where the lines connect and how accessible they are. These Volvos are a breeze...

IMG-3210.jpg
 
I’m sure it’s ok but now I’m thinking I need to drop the pan and just go ahead and change the filter. At least I can see where the dipstick is and judge whether it safe or not for the future. It seems to run fine for now. Thanks for all the suggestions and other avenues to look at.

I imagine the filter is held in by the pan, I can’t imagine them just press fitting it up there and expect it not to rattle loose after a while, right? Now I’m paranoid lol.
 
some filters have bolts others are just pushed by the pan, others are just an integrated screen. no problem.

extracting only gets about 3/4 of a normal drain but very easy and no mess.
 
I’m sure it’s ok but now I’m thinking I need to drop the pan and just go ahead and change the filter. At least I can see where the dipstick is and judge whether it safe or not for the future. It seems to run fine for now. Thanks for all the suggestions and other avenues to look at.

I imagine the filter is held in by the pan, I can’t imagine them just press fitting it up there and expect it not to rattle loose after a while, right? Now I’m paranoid lol
why are you pushing the tube down so far? I would just put it 2 or 3 inches into the dipstick tube and let gravity do the rest.
you are totally right, I over inserted it without thinking too much about it, by about 6”. Afterwords I marked Where the dipstick would terminate with a magic marker on the tube
 
I looked for one but came up empty.

This used to be widely available, I swear :oops:

Actually, now that I think of it, Mazda used this transmision in many of their cars, and teh Mazda pan includes a drain plug. Part number FN11-21-51XB

Also, Dorman 265-879 will work :)
 
My daughter has a 2010 Focus and I suck as much oil out as I can , then remove the pan, clean it , then change the filter. easy to do it that way.
 
My daughter has a 2010 Focus and I suck as much oil out as I can , then remove the pan, clean it , then change the filter. easy to do it that way.
Did you happen to notice where the dipstick came out in the pan area? Is the filter held in place by the pan? I ordered a filter and gasket so will be doing the same. I needed to do several drain and fills anyways so no biggie the original fluid looked pretty bad with 87k miles on it. No way I’d wait till 150k to change it. From now on it’s 30k or once a year whatever comes first, drain and fills.
 
Back
Top