Restoring oxidized, black, plastic cladding....

Messages
5,401
Location
KC
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
The OP's regular treatment lasts 3 months so VRT has no real advantage compared to his current regime. I think the OP's looking for a more permanent fix rather than just constantly treating the plastic.
That would be ideal. Not looking overly realistic at this point. I need to see if I can find reviews on Wipe New. Sounds like it might be the only hope.
 
Messages
635
Location
Norwalk, CA not CT
Wipe new will work, for a time, but be very careful with it. It's basically just a clearcoat in a bottle but uses a very aggressive solvent in order to bond with plastic and so if it gets on paint you'll end up needing to wet sand it off. Also when it does wear out it's likely the plastic will end up looking worse than before. It'll peel, blotch and turn chalky white. Read the reviews on amazon before buying it.
 
Messages
486
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Reminds me of high school. We once used industrial Sharpie's from school on small black exterior plastic parts. Friend no longer had the car about a year later, but it lasted that long. Later in college when we knew how to do a little body work we ended up airbrushing black bumper parts... essentially repainting it. I think now-a-days if you have a hookup repainting a bumper can be about $100 total.
 
Messages
5,401
Location
KC
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
Wipe new will work, for a time, but be very careful with it. It's basically just a clearcoat in a bottle but uses a very aggressive solvent in order to bond with plastic and so if it gets on paint you'll end up needing to wet sand it off. Also when it does wear out it's likely the plastic will end up looking worse than before. It'll peel, blotch and turn chalky white. Read the reviews on amazon before buying it.
Yeah, no go with it. The reviews on autopia indicated it didn't even make it through a couple of car washes before being washed off.
 
Messages
635
Location
Norwalk, CA not CT
If you apply it right it will last months if not a year or more. I know because I helped my uncle apply it to some really beat up plastic. And it did last but when it went, it really went, and the big problem is reapplication is a bigger pain in the butte. You have to strip it because the stuff is clear and an uneven surface with bubbling and hazing underneath will show on reapplication and only lacquer thinner will cut it but that can also severely damage many plastics and your car paint. Not worth it in my opinion. Just keep using the OTC treatments and live with reapplying it, or just use Krylon Fusion paint. When the paint wears off it's just as easy to sand and repaint the piece.
 
Last edited:
Top