Replaced brakes on son's 2008 Ford Ranger

Originally Posted by nobb
Awesome. I have one of these trucks in the family too, it seems only the RWD ones have grease-able front hubs. How often are you supposed to do it? I'm thinking maybe every brake job should be sufficient.


Every 30k miles seems to be consensus. Ford doesn't say.

I have gone at least 80k without touching the bearings. The OE Torrington bearings on my 02 2wd lasted over 225k miles with maybe three repackings.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
This is the Ford Ranger where the rotor and hub and bearing are one unit. Brilliant idea. I had Ford Ranger 4x4 many years ago and I believe that was the case. If I remember you needed a large 2" or 3" socket to get the unit apart. I assume Ford assumed on-vehivle rotor turning machines would be used.

Glad they have moved on with rotors design & assembly.

98+ 4wd (and 95 on Explorer 4wd) uses a sealed bolt on hub assembly. All others use separate bearings.

My auto hub 94 Explorer uses the big socket and keyed nut, but is easy in my experience. My 02 Ranger 2wd uses the non keyed nut and is more finicky to tighten, but nothing crazy. I haven't done bearings on my manual hub Ranger, but apparently one nut is around 150 ft lbs torque spec, and there are more pieces. Not looking forward to that one.
 
Originally Posted by 01rangerxl
Originally Posted by Donald
This is the Ford Ranger where the rotor and hub and bearing are one unit. Brilliant idea. I had Ford Ranger 4x4 many years ago and I believe that was the case. If I remember you needed a large 2" or 3" socket to get the unit apart. I assume Ford assumed on-vehivle rotor turning machines would be used.

Glad they have moved on with rotors design & assembly.

98+ 4wd (and 95 on Explorer 4wd) uses a sealed bolt on hub assembly. All others use separate bearings.

My auto hub 94 Explorer uses the big socket and keyed nut, but is easy in my experience. My 02 Ranger 2wd uses the non keyed nut and is more finicky to tighten, but nothing crazy. I haven't done bearings on my manual hub Ranger, but apparently one nut is around 150 ft lbs torque spec, and there are more pieces. Not looking forward to that one.

I've done the manual hub ones before. They're not bad. You have an inner nut, an outer nut, and a keyed washer that goes in between. You tighten the inner nut so it's basically finger tight (like you'd do on a 2wd nut), slide the washer on and make sure it's flush with the inner nut, and install the outer nut and tighten to 150 ft lbs. That's it. The purpose of the washer is to simply hold the inner nut in place and prevent it from tightening more when you're torquing the outer nut down.
 
Originally Posted by tig1
Thursday I did all the work on my son's Ranger. This was on the front so I replaced the rotor- bearing hub and bearings and installed new ceramic pads. I'm 75 so this kind of work is a little harder on me now than years ago, but self fulfilling none the less. My son has a very bad back(disabled) so I manned up and saved him the labor cost. Brakes are now great.



Outstanding tig1
 
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