I'm trying to replace the front brake rotos on my 92 Accord. This is the PITA deisgn that requires removal of the pressed-in hub assembly. Yesterday I got everything unbolted and loosened and tried to remove the hub. I had bought a puller to do this, but I still can't get it off. I have a feeling I'm gonna have to take the whole knuckle off the car and bring it to a shop so they can press it out. If I remember correctly, the only thing holding the knuckle in is the upper and lower ball joints, the tie rod, brake line and ABS wire. I already have the lower ball joint disconnected. The rest shouldn't be too bad should it? Will this throw off my alignment when I put it back together? I'm not too concerned about the alignment since it's due for one anyway, but I want the thing to livable/drivable until I get around to bringing it in the shop. I think I MAY have bitten off a little more than I can chew this time fellas...
Removing press-in hub assemblies woes
- Thread starter exranger06
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Did you remove the alignment screws from the rotor to the hub?
Most Hondas have them, I had to drill mine out on a Civic. They don't mean anything anyway. Studs line the rotor up.
Did you use a hammer to knock the rotor off the hub? Sometime you have to keep banging it and it will eventually come loose.
Most Hondas have them, I had to drill mine out on a Civic. They don't mean anything anyway. Studs line the rotor up.
Did you use a hammer to knock the rotor off the hub? Sometime you have to keep banging it and it will eventually come loose.
You need to remove the whole knuckle anyway to get at the 4 rear bolts holding the hub assy in they are not pressed in,or did you get them out with the CV axle in place?
That's really a horrible design.
That's really a horrible design.
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I have done this job multiple times on my 94 Accord and once on a friend's 95. It is the same design as your 92.
Yes, the rotor is bolted to the back of the hub which presses into the knuckle. FORTUNATELY, you do NOT need to take the knuckle out or use a press or a slide hammer.
After you get the CV axle out, remove the 4 12mm-head, 8x1.25 bolts that hold the bearing assembly in. Now, find 4 more bolts that are an inch or so longer. Put a little grease on the threads and thread them most of the way into the bearing assembly. There should be clearance between the bolt heads and the knuckle because they are longer than the originals. Now take a hammer and tap the heads of the bolts in a pattern style. This will gently press the hub out of the knuckle. Eventually it will drop out and the four bolts will prevent it from falling. Remove the bolts and take your rotor/hub/bearing assembly out.
When you re-install it, I recommend a light coating of grease on the face where the knuckle and the hub meet. Then just install the hub, put the original 4 bolts back, and tighten to spec. This approach hasn't failed me yet!
Yes, the rotor is bolted to the back of the hub which presses into the knuckle. FORTUNATELY, you do NOT need to take the knuckle out or use a press or a slide hammer.
After you get the CV axle out, remove the 4 12mm-head, 8x1.25 bolts that hold the bearing assembly in. Now, find 4 more bolts that are an inch or so longer. Put a little grease on the threads and thread them most of the way into the bearing assembly. There should be clearance between the bolt heads and the knuckle because they are longer than the originals. Now take a hammer and tap the heads of the bolts in a pattern style. This will gently press the hub out of the knuckle. Eventually it will drop out and the four bolts will prevent it from falling. Remove the bolts and take your rotor/hub/bearing assembly out.
When you re-install it, I recommend a light coating of grease on the face where the knuckle and the hub meet. Then just install the hub, put the original 4 bolts back, and tighten to spec. This approach hasn't failed me yet!
Now THAT is a great idea! I'll stop at the hardware store tonight and pick up some longer bolts. Thanks!
Originally Posted By: Trav
You need to remove the whole knuckle anyway to get at the 4 rear bolts holding the hub assy in they are not pressed in,or did you get them out with the CV axle in place?
That's really a horrible design.
By disconnecting the lower ball joint, I was able to slide the CV axle out of the hub and get those bolts out behind the hub. This is indeed a horrible design. I spent over 2 hours on this yesterday and I didn't even finish one side.
You need to remove the whole knuckle anyway to get at the 4 rear bolts holding the hub assy in they are not pressed in,or did you get them out with the CV axle in place?
That's really a horrible design.
By disconnecting the lower ball joint, I was able to slide the CV axle out of the hub and get those bolts out behind the hub. This is indeed a horrible design. I spent over 2 hours on this yesterday and I didn't even finish one side.
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
Get high-grade bolts (10.9)! If you have to hit them hard to remove it they will bend otherwise...
Will do, thanks
Get high-grade bolts (10.9)! If you have to hit them hard to remove it they will bend otherwise...
Will do, thanks
Another question: should I remove the knuckle from the car before pounding out the hub? Will it screw up the ball joints or anything if I'm beating on it still on the car?
The manual shows it being removed to do this job but that doesn't mean its the only way to skin this cat.
Not having done one on this model i don't know the tricks.
Hitting the bolts with a hammer shouldn't damage anything else,maybe just try hitting the rotor at different places to loosen the hub first.
If the car is from the salt belt and it turns into a real slug fest then i would probably remove it if for nothing more than making it easier to get decent blows with the hammer.
Not having done one on this model i don't know the tricks.
Hitting the bolts with a hammer shouldn't damage anything else,maybe just try hitting the rotor at different places to loosen the hub first.
If the car is from the salt belt and it turns into a real slug fest then i would probably remove it if for nothing more than making it easier to get decent blows with the hammer.
I did not remove the knuckle from the car. I think you have to pop the lower balljoint to remove the CV axle... IIRC I simply slid the lower balljoint back into place to support the knuckle. It didn't take alot of force to press out the hub, but I also live in the Southeast.
Still had no luck removing the hub. I ended up removing the knuckle. Unfortunately, by the time I got it off it was about 6:30 and every repair shop had closed. I have to wait till tomorrow morning so the shop can press it out for me. I'm REALLY beginning to hate this job. I'm debating whether to replace the balljoints since I already have everything apart...
Stupid question-
Did you suspend the knuckle before you tapped on the bolts? If not the hub cant go anywhere when your tapping on the bolts. I did this exact job on my 92 accord the same way that JZiggy did it. I was suprised at how easy it came apart. I did put a little kroil between the hub and the knuckle prior to the tapping. You can do it, just take your time.
Did you suspend the knuckle before you tapped on the bolts? If not the hub cant go anywhere when your tapping on the bolts. I did this exact job on my 92 accord the same way that JZiggy did it. I was suprised at how easy it came apart. I did put a little kroil between the hub and the knuckle prior to the tapping. You can do it, just take your time.
I thought you might have trouble with the car being in the salt belt.
I did hubs on a car from Texas and it almost fell apart,same car from Mass was welded together with corosion,an absolute nightmare.
I have had to use a sawsall on some F150 and Expedition front Rotors to prevent trashing the hub bearins with flame or hammering.
Use a wire brush attachment in a drill and clean the hub and knuckle,put some antiseize on them when you reassemble.
I did hubs on a car from Texas and it almost fell apart,same car from Mass was welded together with corosion,an absolute nightmare.
I have had to use a sawsall on some F150 and Expedition front Rotors to prevent trashing the hub bearins with flame or hammering.
Use a wire brush attachment in a drill and clean the hub and knuckle,put some antiseize on them when you reassemble.
just a heads up but MATCO makes a special press just for this car. I had one when i turned wrenches. I was able to do front rotors both sides on one of those Accords in under an hour.
One step forward, two steps back. Got the driver's side hub off, changed rotor, all reassembled. Started on the passenger side and totally screwed up the lower ball joint because I didn't have the proper tool to separate it. Got the tool, got the ball joint swapped out (now I have to completely disassemble the drivers side again to swap the drivers ball joint). I had the shop press out the passenger side bearing, but the bearing stayed in the knuckle and just the hub came out. The outer race is still on the hub. The guy said I can tap the hub back into the bearing, but I'm having one heck of a time doing it. I think he may have screwed it up. Is my bearing screwed or is there some way I can get it back in?
Originally Posted By: JZiggy
I have done this job multiple times on my 94 Accord and once on a friend's 95. It is the same design as your 92.
Yes, the rotor is bolted to the back of the hub which presses into the knuckle. FORTUNATELY, you do NOT need to take the knuckle out or use a press or a slide hammer.
After you get the CV axle out, remove the 4 12mm-head, 8x1.25 bolts that hold the bearing assembly in. Now, find 4 more bolts that are an inch or so longer. Put a little grease on the threads and thread them most of the way into the bearing assembly. There should be clearance between the bolt heads and the knuckle because they are longer than the originals. Now take a hammer and tap the heads of the bolts in a pattern style. This will gently press the hub out of the knuckle. Eventually it will drop out and the four bolts will prevent it from falling. Remove the bolts and take your rotor/hub/bearing assembly out.
When you re-install it, I recommend a light coating of grease on the face where the knuckle and the hub meet. Then just install the hub, put the original 4 bolts back, and tighten to spec. This approach hasn't failed me yet!
You owe this man beer!!
I have done this job multiple times on my 94 Accord and once on a friend's 95. It is the same design as your 92.
Yes, the rotor is bolted to the back of the hub which presses into the knuckle. FORTUNATELY, you do NOT need to take the knuckle out or use a press or a slide hammer.
After you get the CV axle out, remove the 4 12mm-head, 8x1.25 bolts that hold the bearing assembly in. Now, find 4 more bolts that are an inch or so longer. Put a little grease on the threads and thread them most of the way into the bearing assembly. There should be clearance between the bolt heads and the knuckle because they are longer than the originals. Now take a hammer and tap the heads of the bolts in a pattern style. This will gently press the hub out of the knuckle. Eventually it will drop out and the four bolts will prevent it from falling. Remove the bolts and take your rotor/hub/bearing assembly out.
When you re-install it, I recommend a light coating of grease on the face where the knuckle and the hub meet. Then just install the hub, put the original 4 bolts back, and tighten to spec. This approach hasn't failed me yet!
You owe this man beer!!
At this point I would go ahead and replace the wheel bearing. The Driver's side lower ball joint I would leave alone unless its damaged or sloppy.
Get the race out and change the hub bearing,if it came apart then its pretty much a done deal.
Getting these things out in our part of the country is not "normal" procedure.You can almost count on anything you remove being damaged and needing replacement.
+1 on leaving the other ball joint alone unless its worn and has play.
Getting these things out in our part of the country is not "normal" procedure.You can almost count on anything you remove being damaged and needing replacement.
+1 on leaving the other ball joint alone unless its worn and has play.
How can I tell if the ball joint is bad? If it helps, I didn't need any tool to get it out of the control arm. It basically fell out as soon as I took the castle nut off. Other than that, it didn't really seem bad. But I think it would annoy me knowing the car isn't "symmetrical" with one old ball joint and one new one.
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