Removing damaged screw...

[GimmeTorq]

In the process of removing the 8 4mm screws that hold the float covers in the two carbs in my Yamaha 650, all but one came out with no problems. The one that's left is now stripped

. I have tried locking pliers but space is tight and I cannot get a good grip. Have anybody used any damaged screw removal tools (like GRAB-IT) in these kind of application? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

 

[c3po]

The only thing I can think of is maybe drilling it out if you can get to it, the other thing is too shoot some WD-40 and let it sit overnite, can you post a picture as this may give us a better idea as how we can help you out. They also make small locking pliers if this helps you out, the only other alternative is too take it too a speed shop or mechanic who is familiar with taking out broken screws because you do not want to damage the carb.

 

[Merkava_4]

What kind of "stripped?" A stripped screw head, or are the threads stripped?

I can't really make any recommendations until I know that.

 

[alreadygone]

Flat? Phillips? Someting else? A impact driver (kind you hit with a hammer) work really well if there's any kind of head slots left. The Left hand rotation bits you chuck in your cordless work fair (I think this is similar to your "Grab-It"). If all else fails, use a standard drill bit to cut head off, then when cover is lifted off there should be enough stem sticking up to remove with pliers since torque of screw head's been removed.

Bob

 

[glennc]

One thing that can work with the carb screws is to use a cutting wheel on a dremel-type tool to cut a flat in the screw, then use a flat-head screwdriver. If that doesn't work you can try drilling off the head, which will let you get the bowl off, and then work on the stub with something like Vise Grips. It is sometimes possible to use an impact driver but you risk damaging the delicate carb bodies.

Are you trying to do this with the carbs on the bike? If so at this point it is probably time to take them off.

 

[tom slick]

Those screws were JIS and made of cheese, as are all Japanese carburetor screws. JIS is just slightly different then phillips and the screws are so soft they strip out easily. replace them with allen head screws and you won't ever have that problem again.
as mentioned, a impact driver works well. you could also try a very small set of vice-grip pliers with regular jaws, not needle nose. both of those have worked for me on many occasions.

 

[-Clayton-]

I have had luck with taking a slightly smaller socket than the head of the screw and tapping it on then backing the screw out.

 

[dwendt44]

Just a thought.
Put the other screws back in to take some of the pressure off the bad screw. Then the WD-40.

A small vise grips might to the trick. A small flat chisel applied very carefully at the proper angle might get it to turn. Once it starts to move, you've got it.

 

[Tosh]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Those screws were JIS and made of cheese, as are all Japanese carburetor screws. JIS is just slightly different then phillips and the screws are so soft they strip out easily.

Would it be better to use a Pozidriv driver on these JIS heads?

Wiki on screws

 

[JTK]

I've also had good luck using an impact screw driver: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530
Not necessarily a China Freight, just threw that in for example!

Joel

 

[tom slick]

Originally Posted By: Tosh
Originally Posted By: tom slick
Those screws were JIS and made of cheese, as are all Japanese carburetor screws. JIS is just slightly different then phillips and the screws are so soft they strip out easily.

Would it be better to use a Pozidriv driver on these JIS heads?

Wiki on screws


I've never tried a posidrive in a JIS so I don't know. what does work is to file just a bit off of the tip of a #1 phillips until it fits snugly into the screw. it seems like the tip of a phillips is slightly longer and more pointed then JIS.

 

[Steve S]

Tom that is a rather conservative description of the screws.

 

[mechtech2]

Glenc has the right idea.
I worked at at a motorcycle shop for years, and Japanese screws are made of butter.
The good news is that it is fixable, but will not be 100% stock afterwards.

 

[GimmeTorq]

Here is a pic of the two carbs... The screws in the pic are not the original ones. The original screws are JIS bronze 4mm screws. The one with the stripped head is the lower left corner of the rear carb.

 

[GimmeTorq]

I hear you... I already bought stainless steel hex key screws (just like the ones in the pic) to replace the original ones... Cool, thanks for all the suggestions. Hopefully I can finally resolve this without damaging anything else.

 

[TexasHonda]

I have had success w/ using a good sharp cold chisel to hit the edge of the screw head. You can exert much higher torque than w/ a screw driver. This would be a final resort after trying other schemes to improve screwdriver bite into the screw head.

good luck

 

[paulo57509]

For the remaining JIS screws you haven't stripped yet:

http://www.rjrcooltools.com/vessel.cfm

 

[GimmeTorq]

Well, I'm a happy camper... I drilled the heck out of the head of the screw and everything went well. I could not find the appropriate screw extractor anywhere near my area so I decided to carefully follow the drilling approach. New stainless steel hex screws and float chamber cover gaskets are in place and the gas leak is solved. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Jim Spahr]

Would the Grab it kit not help remove the stripped screw?

 

[GimmeTorq]

I guess it should have but I could not find the right one for the screw size I was trying to extract. Drilling it worked great in my case though.