Push mower engine cover fell off

Joined
Dec 30, 2019
Messages
234
Location
USA
My trusty old Snapper with the B&S Quantum XS engine had a moment yesterday. This is what I use typically in the spring, early
Summer and Fall to mow the yard. The engine has been burning oil for the past year now - I usually keep it topped up with 10w40 and check the oil pre mow.

Yesterday I ran it for about 20-30 mins. Cold start was normal and it fired up on the 2nd pull. I had to stop it as there were a bunch of tree branches that had fallen down in the wooded area of the lot from the recent storm. When I let go off the throttle, it did the usual bit of sputtering but then it sounded like it back fired which it had never done before. After I had the branches cleared out, started it back up and ran it for maybe 5-7 minutes when the neighbor came over. So I again let it shut off. Spoke to the neighbor maybe 5 mins. Pulled the cord and the engine cover came off. Looks like the pop rivets (3 out of the 4) holding the pull cord mechanism in place came off and the top engine cover fell on the ground. Is there any way to salvage this thing? The deck is in good shape and so are the attachments.

IMG_2837.jpeg
IMG_2838.jpeg
IMG_2839.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Can a nut and bolt be fished in through the space ?
Myself i would run some self tapping screws in it.
 
That is a common problem. The best way to fix it is pull the gas tank and then the fan shroud which is where the pull start bolts to, and then use some small bolts pointing upwards with nuts to secure the pull start. Or you can use a rivet gun from Harbor Freight.
 
I normally use pop rivets to fix those recoil starters. If you have a ratchet set, it is pretty simple to remove the plastic fuel tank/cover and take off the metal engine shroud (5 bolts) to access the backside if you want to use nuts & bolts to reattach the starter. I'd suggest using lockwashers and locktite on those bolts.
 
Go the HF or a hardware store and treat yourself to a proper rivet gun and put it to use.
Another option might be to get some threaded clips to put over the tabs, and use screws to attach.
Simple fix either way.
 
If the original rivets pulled out of the shroud, the holes are likely wallowed out and new rivets will also pull out. As Jeepman suggested, replacing the rivets with screws and nuts is the best way to repair this.
 
Nice Snapper you have there, keep it running and repower if needed ... they're not making any more of them I believe.
 
Nice Snapper you have there, keep it running and repower if needed ... they're not making any more of them I believe.
Yeah it’s been really good. Sturdy, durable and really no upkeep outside of the usual oil changes and blades sharpening. I even have the dethatcher attachment that goes on the front! If this engine dies, I’ll probably get an engine from HF and run this till the deck gives out.
 
If the original rivets pulled out of the shroud, the holes are likely wallowed out and new rivets will also pull out. As Jeepman suggested, replacing the rivets with screws and nuts is the best way to repair this.
I’m tempted to try the Rivet gun method first, having never owned a river gun - this seems like a good enough excuse lol.

For the screws and nuts method - my hesitation would be for a scenario where the nut backs off and the screw falls inwards into the engine cavity. I ask because it’s used about 3 hours each week, so it gets plenty of run time each year and I’d hate for a backed off screw to destroy the engine.
 
I’m tempted to try the Rivet gun method first, having never owned a river gun - this seems like a good enough excuse lol.

For the screws and nuts method - my hesitation would be for a scenario where the nut backs off and the screw falls inwards into the engine cavity. I ask because it’s used about 3 hours each week, so it gets plenty of run time each year and I’d hate for a backed off screw to destroy the engine.
Use lock nuts, then they will never back-off. Screws will never pull back out of the shroud either. Install the screws with the thread side up, nuts mounted on the top by the starter. This would be your most cost effective and permanent repair. This is the way that I would do it at my shop to prevent comebacks.
 
Use lock nuts, then they will never back-off. Screws will never pull back out of the shroud either. Install the screws with the thread side up, nuts mounted on the top by the starter. This would be your most cost effective and permanent repair. This is the way that I would do it at my shop to prevent comebacks.
Sounds good, the lock nuts are a great idea. Thanks!
 
My trusty old Snapper with the B&S Quantum XS engine had a moment yesterday. This is what I use typically in the spring, early
Summer and Fall to mow the yard. The engine has been burning oil for the past year now - I usually keep it topped up with 10w40 and check the oil pre mow.

Yesterday I ran it for about 20-30 mins. Cold start was normal and it fired up on the 2nd pull. I had to stop it as there were a bunch of tree branches that had fallen down in the wooded area of the lot from the recent storm. When I let go off the throttle, it did the usual bit of sputtering but then it sounded like it back fired which it had never done before. After I had the branches cleared out, started it back up and ran it for maybe 5-7 minutes when the neighbor came over. So I again let it shut off. Spoke to the neighbor maybe 5 mins. Pulled the cord and the engine cover came off. Looks like the pop rivets (3 out of the 4) holding the pull cord mechanism in place came off and the top engine cover fell on the ground. Is there any way to salvage this thing? The deck is in good shape and so are the attachments.

View attachment 163933View attachment 163934View attachment 163937
New pop rivits or screws. Very simple fix.
 
Can you go back to wrapping a rope with a handle around the flywheel? The old days.

Another reason to like my Toro Timemaster where the engine keeps running when the blades are stopped.
 
I disassembled the gas tank. I found a plastic piece - any ideas where it goes?

I’m going to try Lowe’s and see if I can get the right sized bolt and lock nuts.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2855.jpeg
    IMG_2855.jpeg
    50.2 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_2854.jpeg
    IMG_2854.jpeg
    45.3 KB · Views: 7
That is one of the two starter dogs that should in the bottom of the plastic rope wheel. When the rope is pulled, those swing out to engage the metal cup attached to the crankshaft and turn the engine. There is a plastic plate that holds them from falling out of the wheel. It's all secured by the center bolt.

If that plastic stuff is mangled it can be replaced or take the whole starter off of a junk engine.
 
Back
Top