Purolator oil filter problem

[DuckRyder]

Eh too late to edit:

57356 and 57356XP

Both appear to have room:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4642025/

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4642023/

 

[countryboy9799]

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Originally Posted By: countryboy9799
Originally Posted By: oldhp
Since the Purolator leaked...... Use the Wix 51358(Napa Gold 1358) or if you want, the longer 51356(Napa Gold 1356).


I am going to start with the oil filter is leaking, either from the gasket or bad filter. It's possible they changed it, what doesn't make sense is that it worked for 2 months and all of a sudden it leaked oil completely down to the oil filter level, I have zero doubts it leaked with no pressure, it was a slow drip that probably went on from the last time I rode it a week ago. I think when I am done I might put it on the polaris just to see if it leaks from that. Luckily the oil filter sits at about the 1 qt. mark so it at least has some oil in it if someone were to run it.

So just want to know what the thoughts are on using the 51356 or Napa gold 1356 since some seem to strongly forbid using anything but the recommended filter. I don't want to jeopardize my engine but I do prefer the longer filter because it has more media and both the Wix and Napa are closer to half the price. I know I have used longer filters many times in the past for different applications and this is my first oil leak I have ever has at a filter.


Have a read through the threads I linked, they explain the problem pretty well, the last one from the FJR site in particular has some details on how to measure.

The 51356 crosses to the other filters so if the tapping plate will allow it to screw on properly no reason it won’t work. I believe I still have one cut open so I will try to get you some measurements. Be aware though that M+H now owns WIX, so even if they work now that could change at any moment.

Assuming I’m right about the issue.



I took a look at it and it looks like this filter will no longer work with my grizzly. I am disappointed that they would change the design of the filter, they should at least change it over to a different number. My filter is a convex one, I am surprised it went 2 months with 5 rides on it and then started to leak.

 

[countryboy9799]

Originally Posted By: oldhp
Since the Purolator leaked...... Use the Wix 51358(Napa Gold 1358) or if you want, the longer 51356(Napa Gold 1356).


After looking into it further I am not going to chance it with the longer Napa gold 1356 because it has a convex shape and it will hit the nut that is on the threads where it comes out of the motor. So since the XG7317 is not the recommended filter do you think I could have the same issue? It is calling for a Fram PH6017A. Looks like it might be the same design though.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: oldhp
Since the Purolator leaked...... Use the Wix 51358(Napa Gold 1358) or if you want, the longer 51356(Napa Gold 1356).

In reference to that, I'd recommend checking the application guide, to differentiate between the 51358 and 51365 on one hand and the the 57356 and 51356 on the other, since those are essentially the same filter and the oversize, but with different plates, as per DuckRyder's mention.

As for bypass, and the like, the G37 used to call for the 51365, now the 51358, though I had no problems with the old 51365. I also have used the 51356 oversize and now am using the 57356 oversize. Obviously, though, there is a reason for the different base plates.

 

[DuckRyder]

The 7317 (PH/TG/XG) crosses to the 14610 and 57356. The FRAM tapping plate is well recessed but the treads protrude toward the engine:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4640931/

Still the ends of the threads are well below the sealing surface, at least 6mm.

 

[countryboy9799]

I think I am going to have to use the recommended filter as there is a nut that is on the threads that prohibits the filter from going on all the way. I suppose I could try measuring how far the threads are sunk in some of the filters too.

 

[countryboy9799]

Well I finally stopped at Napa today and put the shorter 1358 in and it does not appear to be leaking. I would highly recommend staying away from the longer filters if you have the oil filter setup like I have with the big nut on it. I would tell by the PL14610 that it was hitting and not seating all the way. It surprises me that it lasted 2 months but I suppose maybe the gasket shrunk a little and started leaking.

 

[kballowe]

.
Here's the common Yamaha oil filter boss.
.
.

.
.
Like has already been said, the center of the oil filter end-cap bottoms-out on that nut - before fully engaging the gasket and is an issue with automotive filters, not motorcycle-specific filters. Most all of the automotive filters got the re-designed convex end caps a couple years ago. Long filters, medium, and short filters - all the same re-design.

This used to be my favorite motorcycle oil filter (actually an automotive filter, by listing).
Old filter on the left - new one on the right.
.
.

.
.

BTW - The NAPA 1358 is a motorcycle-specific filter and still works just fine. Wix 51358 is the same.


Me? I bought a dozen HiFlo HF303 filters at a discount and split them with a friend. HiFlo makes OEM filters for some manufacturers. They are motorcycle-specific filters. They fit my Yamaha, Honda, and Kawasaki just fine.

(sigh) I sure miss my Bosch filters

.

 

[Black_Thunder]

Originally Posted by DuckRyder
There was some talk about a change in the tapping plate design which caused this filter to no longer work on some motorcycles as the tapping plate bottoms on the fitting on the engine.

This could be what is going on.

Edit, a couple such threads:

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=17157.0

https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/543602-defective-purolator-filter.html




this would make sense as I've used a couple 14612s on my dads cycle which eventually started leaking and only was change the filter. strange.

had that issue on my R1 with a supertech filter and my Kodiak with a purolator.

On my R1 i put on a quakerstate or bosch with no issue and then a Defense on my kodiak no issue.

I'll need to pay more attention to the baseplate from now on.

 

[alarmguy]

I would stick with motorcycle label filters if for no other reason then many times an automotive filter will have a higher bypass valve pressure which could starve the motorcycle engine for oil at start up as typically motorcycle bypass valve pressure will be lower.
You can also check the bypass PSI of the filter to your motorcycle specs if your lucky enough to find it or to the OEM filter itself to see if they match or come close to the automotive.