PP 0W20 or M1 0w20

[PimTac]

Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: Ram02
M1 has a higher flash point


Using the same ASTM testing methodology? There are two: D92 and D93. One produces a higher number. Can’t remember which.



Looked it up. 0w20. PP is 204c with D93. M1EP is 235c with D92.

Interesting. Thanks for pointing that out. Still, flash point is just one factor just like Noack or any of the other specs.

 

[Voleak]

Originally Posted By: cmlind
I would lean PP just because I don't want to get on the M1 bandwagon.

I have this same question. I have a new Subaru Forester non Turbo. I changed with Mag1 0w20 the first time at 3k, but am contemplating PP or Quaker state.

Valvoline is my favorite and have a stash of 30 quarts of 5w30 synpower that I got for $2.99, but I haven't seen any deals on it lately to get some 0w20. I have a hard time paying more than $4 a quart for oil.


Are you going to use the 5w30 Synpower in your Subaru? Curious, because I am doing my homework now, for future DIY oil changes on my Crosstrek. I want to get away from 0w20 because I live in an area that is hot in summer, and cool - warm in winters. 5w30 might be the ticket for me...still doing homework though.

 

[cmlind]

I have a few months to think about it but if I can get Valvoline on sale I will. Always liked the brand (old habits I guess). I am going to stick with 0w20 in warranty, but plan to move to 5w30 after the warranty is up.

I have 170k on the explorer 4.0 that has used citgo, shell, mobil, quaker state or valvoline with no ill effects and still running like new with 5k changes, so maybe I will end up doing the same thing with the subaru and buy what I can find cheap as it really doesn't matter on brand, but what would we do on here if it were that easy.

 

[53' Stude]

Friend decided on PP 0w20