POR-15 vs. Ford PM-13-A

[28oz]

My 7.3 PSD oil pan is showing some rust. I haven't started scraping or sanding or anything yet, but it doesn't leak and does appear to be salvageable. Reading the horror stories of having to replace these pans, I think I can just coat it and be done with it for the foreseeable future.

I think I've narrowed my options down to either POR-15 or Ford's purpose-made PM-13-A high temperature anti corrosion coating. I could not find a temperature rating for POR-15, but did notice they make a high temperature version. I know many people use the regular POR-15 for oil pans, but it made me curious what temperatures it can withstand.

Any one have experience with the two, could compare them for me, or help me make up my mind between the two?

 

[bullwinkle]

I'm going to need to do the Dodge Ram's Cummins oil pan before long, let us know how it goes.

 

[KGMtech]

I've tried POR 15 on the lower cabinet shelf (not a high heat area) of my Weber Genesis 320 BBQ, and it is peeling off less than 3 years from the work. Followed the instructions, but the stuff is not as good as their marketing department would have you think.

In your application, I would suggest the thickest paste anti seize available.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

next time you change the oil, wipe some of the old oil on the pan

 

[P10crew]

Not much luck with por here. If you are spraying it on fresh sand blasted metal then yes it works. Other than that I would never use it on anything.
I have used the chassis black on bare blasted frames and I have used their caliper kits. But if your metal is not pristine blasted for get it..

 

[Dave9]

Blasted is bad for areas where POR will be hit by road gravel/etc and flake off. In that case a rougher brushed surface would work better but probably too thin to get away with that where rusted already unless it's a thicker cast piece.

What about high heat enamel paint? Prep work is going to be paramount either way, so surely you're taking the pan off to do that and can get a couple coats of paint on it.

 

[Cressida]

Learn about Epoxy Primer. It is a 2 stage product. I think that is what I'd consider.

 

[samven]

If you just want a quick fix that will buy you a couple years I would try wire brushing all the loose rust off and put 2 coats of spray Rustoleum Rust converter followed by 2 coats of Charcoal Grill High Heat Enamel, although your pan should never really get that hot or you will have other problems. If your going to pull it to do a real job you might as well get a new one.

 

[28oz]

Originally Posted by samven
If you just want a quick fix that will buy you a couple years I would try wire brushing all the loose rust off and put 2 coats of spray Rustoleum Rust converter followed by 2 coats of Charcoal Grill High Heat Enamel, although your pan should never really get that hot or you will have other problems. If your going to pull it to do a real job you might as well get a new one.


I would love to pull it and slap a new one on it. However, to do this on a 7.3 PSD, Ford specifies pulling the engine and letting the engine sit upside down for 24 hours to ensure a good sealant seal. There's really no other way to even get the pan off. Not going to happen since the pan isn't currently leaking, lol.

 

[Donald]

FF or CarWell, that kind of product. Redo once or 2x a year.