Then you need part number CB0220. Ordering it from Amazon is safe in this case because it's being sold and shipped directly by CTR.
Popped Moog Ball joint boot
- Thread starter Sid6.7
- Start date
Then you need part number CB0220. Ordering it from Amazon is safe in this case because it's being sold and shipped directly by CTR.
I thought the relief was on the opposite end of the ball joint ?
thats where moog said the relief was
it looks like its still sealed I can't move that ring upwards or downwards by hand anyway
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thats out of stock dude
Okay, I have seen it on both ends, I thought it had a little relief flap on the bottom. In any case you may have put enough pressure on it pumping that much grease in there it just came out around it unless you ruptured or dislodged the boot.
ok so you don't think ill will have to replace the ball joint none of the rubber is ruptured it just came out around the seam, I pulled that grease zerk right after i took the picture
If it didn't rupture then you are good to go. There is no engineered seal at the end of the boot like there is with a wheel bearing. The boot just keeps the grease in and the dirt out.
ok cool thank you, I was worried I broke the seal or something and I didn't want to have to take everything apart again in like 3 months if it failed.
Moog boots are garbage and not available separately. Its not if they will split, its when. You can get polyurethane boots but it's pretty tough to find one that fits.
There is no cross reference that I have seen except for a select few. OEM or Sankei 555 are best for Asian cars
There is no cross reference that I have seen except for a select few. OEM or Sankei 555 are best for Asian cars
Moog tells you to pretty much overgrease it because they have their patented relief valve that didn't work
It's listed as in-stock on my end, and I even refreshed it a few times. Price is $22.83 and free shipping.
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Shows in stock for me too!
I am not from the usa its not in stock in canada
Disagree. Besides the brief, initial, break in period when they are a little stiffer, greaseable high quality ball joints are superior if only you DO, grease them.Welcome to BITOG
Those greaseable ball joints are a gimmick, outdated, and stupid.
Instead, consider CTR ball joints. They could've even been Kia's OE supplier.
To be sealed, a BJ usually uses a plastic bushing which deforms with road impacts. Potholes can ruin them much faster.
Sealed, plastic bushing BJs are just part of the disposable society mentality that thinks "I don't want to bother maintaining anything, just throw it away when it fails"... which in this case just means it lasts beyond the warranty period.
Granted, plastic tech is fairly mature and good lifespan can be had from these structurally weaker lubed-for-life BJs, but they are always a downgrade from hardened metal on metal, HQ, lubed as needed, BJs.
Kia's OE supplier isn't saying much. Kias are designed to self destruct around 150K mi. if not sooner. There will of course be people who get more mileage than that, but consider the topic, it needs new BJs which many *cars* don't need in their lifetime.
It does not take a rocket surgeon to recognize that metal on metal is better than plastic on metal for shock and wear, if only kept lubricated.
I don't understand how a "sealed" joint is better than one you can grease, the boots aren't hermetically sealed or something to begin with so being able to push debris out of the joint is a good thing.
fyi kia's aren't designed to explode at 150k miles you can easily get 250k out of them if you look after them.
JHZR2
Staff member
Why?Usually need to replace the ball joint.
I may or may not have done this before.....with a pneumatic grease gun.
Fit ball joints on Mercedes knuckles, folks often remove the boot to use press tools. I’ve also seen MB sell replacement boot kits. Granted that’s a different brand and perhaps design.
OP, is the boot split, or did it just bleed out of the top/bottom? If the boot didn’t split I’d think you’re ok.
Aren’t great able joints supposed to self-flush in some designs?
^ They can self flush to some extent, moving out grease at any gap/vent in the boot, but if contamination gets in deep enough, it's improbable that all will be flushed out, and could pop it off at the seal or rupture a weak boot... though at that point, the boot may not have had much use left before it split anyway.
You'd likely get it flushed better if disconnected from the knuckle so you can articulate it while putting a lot more grease through, but I doubt many people are going to do that, especially DIYers who once they've gotten that far along in the process, can just replace the BJ, or just the boot if they can find the right size and the BJ has no play yet. If replacing the boot on a greaseable BJ, I would flush it out with a lot of grease before putting the new boot on.
Sealed is better for people who don't relube them. This includes if they have someone else do their oil 'n lube, where they seldom check for greaseable suspension parts these days, especially if the originals were sealed or they Just Don't Care.
You'd likely get it flushed better if disconnected from the knuckle so you can articulate it while putting a lot more grease through, but I doubt many people are going to do that, especially DIYers who once they've gotten that far along in the process, can just replace the BJ, or just the boot if they can find the right size and the BJ has no play yet. If replacing the boot on a greaseable BJ, I would flush it out with a lot of grease before putting the new boot on.
Sealed is better for people who don't relube them. This includes if they have someone else do their oil 'n lube, where they seldom check for greaseable suspension parts these days, especially if the originals were sealed or they Just Don't Care.
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these are suppose to have a vent but it obviously doesn't work in my application anyway. the pic below is the moog relief that doesn't work for me anyway
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IMO, since I doubt the average person (or the shop they take it to) is going to pay attention to consistently greasing their suspension parts, a sealed style joint is superior and can be expected to last the lifetime of most vehicles (200-300k) under normal driving. The disadvantage of a sealed joint is they don't take impact load or heat (such as if they are located right next to the brakes) as well as the metal on metal greaseable style.
I have some Moog joints and they relieve out the same way as the OP's, so I don't think it's anything to worry about. The relief on Moog joints is kind of confusing sometimes, but I don't think it's possible to over-pump them. I always pump until the grease starts puking out, otherwise how do you know that the old stuff is getting out?
