Picking a decent oil...

[VinceF]

Been going around and around about oil. Want to use a decent oil but not spend too much. Been using QS ultimate durability. Who says it is group lll though QS says it's synthetic. I have read an MSDS that says their 5W30 is slack wax and PAO and additives, but then their 10W30 just says PAO plus adds, looking like they forgot to list the slack wax hydrocarbons.

I have always wanted a turbo, so oils were a concern, but got an 07' NA Subaru, but still wanted to use a good oil. I don't put many mi on it so use the drained oil plus 1 qt of fresh oil in an old 86' Chevy that has been through the mill. Overheated it and had coolant in the oil, that I fixed. Figure I can get more use from the oil, and cut costs, and maybe benefit both cars. The Subaru is FI while the Chevy has a carb. QS claims their oil still passes the tests for a new oil when it is time to change. Figure the base oil Might be Shells XMVI, but no one seems to know for sure. QS says that the oil gets thicker when heat or stress is higher, like they have viscosity improvers that respond to the conditions. I like using 5W30 in the winter, and 10W30 in the summer.

I have a friend who swears by Mobil 1, but they have made so many changes, I wonder what they are now? Might be the same as others.

 

[danthaman1980]

I vote you keep using QSUD in the Subie but stop putting used oil in the Chevy. Use PYB or Defy or MaxLife in the Chevy.

 

[pscholte]

Don't "overthink" the decision. Pick an appropriately rated 0 or 5w30 at your price point, change it at 4500-5500 miles and be happy. If you were to insist on a brand I would stick with the QSUD.

PS The mileage numbers are not magic just my comfort zone for your car.

 

[VinceF]

I have been comfortable with the QSUD, but have been wondering if there was anything better, reading about Shell Helix, and Rotella, but am thinking that QS might be using the XMVI base oil.

I don't put a lot of mi on the cars, probably 4-5K between them. Don't think Subaru recommends a 0W for it. When the car was new I went with Castrol conventional for the first 2 changes, about 1500mi each as a break in. When looking for a steady oil, I kept thinking 5W or 10W, thinking 10W would protect better but then thought about winter temps, and the different amounts of VI. Would like to avoid piston slap that Subaru's can get, I imagine because of the horizontal motor.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Having owned a tons of subarus, they like a heavrier oil if you use the power at all - especially the Huge V8-size bore / super short stroke EJ253. So we mixed in 5w30 shell with 10w30 Rotella Triple Protect to get the viscosity that worked well. One (1)qt 5w30 in the summer and 50/50 blend in the winter. NO need for primary grIII/IV synthetics. The EJ253 is probably the EASIEST engine on oil. NO lifters or tappets, Roller followers, a dry cam timing system, High Vol pump. Moly coated piston skirts and split Crankcase capturing the mains.

 

[VinceF]

Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
I vote you keep using QSUD in the Subie but stop putting used oil in the Chevy. Use PYB or Defy or MaxLife in the Chevy.


I put so few mi on the Subie, I figure I can get more use out of the oil. Being a new car with FI, the oil should be in pretty good shape. I add a qt of fresh QS to the Chevy because the oil has some use.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: VinceF
Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
I vote you keep using QSUD in the Subie but stop putting used oil in the Chevy. Use PYB or Defy or MaxLife in the Chevy.


I put so few mi on the Subie, I figure I can get more use out of the oil. Being a new car with FI, the oil should be in pretty good shape. I add a qt of fresh QS to the Chevy because the oil has some use.


It should be fine, just dont make it a regular practice because it is too hard to ensure that there is no cross contamination with all the steps it takes to get oil from one car to another. There could be dirt in the drain pan, stuff blows in from a gust of wind etc. Just use fresh oil next time, it is cheap.

 

[VinceF]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Having owned a tons of subarus, they like a heavrier oil if you use the power at all - especially the Huge V8-size bore / super short stroke EJ253. So we mixed in 5w30 shell with 10w30 Rotella Triple Protect to get the viscosity that worked well. One (1)qt 5w30 in the summer and 50/50 blend in the winter. NO need for primary grIII/IV synthetics. The EJ253 is probably the EASIEST engine on oil. NO lifters or tappets, Roller followers, a dry cam timing system, High Vol pump. Moly coated piston skirts and split Crankcase capturing the mains.


How did you determine oil weights?

What's with the name, ARCO G? That goes back a few yrs. A friend said that the filter probably picked up the particles.

 

[pscholte]

Originally Posted By: VinceF
I have been comfortable with the QSUD, but have been wondering if there was anything better, reading about Shell Helix, and Rotella, but am thinking that QS might be using the XMVI base oil.

I don't put a lot of mi on the cars, probably 4-5K between them. Don't think Subaru recommends a 0W for it. When the car was new I went with Castrol conventional for the first 2 changes, about 1500mi each as a break in. When looking for a steady oil, I kept thinking 5W or 10W, thinking 10W would protect better but then thought about winter temps, and the different amounts of VI. Would like to avoid piston slap that Subaru's can get, I imagine because of the horizontal motor.



You fit right in with the BITOG crowd always looking for something better. One thing I recommend: unless you see compelling empirical evidence pointing to use of a certain oil, use what you like that meets OEM specs. Constantly looking for something better can drive you nuts Like I'm...you know...like a basket case

Besides sine the Elves retired there are no more magic oils...just well-engineered ones.

 

[VinceF]

Because I use 5W in the winter, and 10W in the summer, what I drained from the Subie sits for 6mo. Just have to mark the used oil jug right, whether 5 or 10W.

 

[bigt61]

The Chevy is more than happy to get used synthetic from the Subie. Sounds like a good plan to me. You're getting maximum usage out of that oil and saving a few bucks.

 

[VinceF]

Pscholte..

Just like to be happy with what I am doing. If I had a turbo it would be more important I think. Just trying to sort out what is true. With all the Gr 111's being called synthetic, I like to know what is what. I learn a few things about what makes a good oil good. Over the years I have had some issues with oils, and I think gummed up rings. In one I switched brands, and stopped using oil, and in the one with the rings I went from 30mi to a qt to 550, pouring a little CC flush down the carb, pulling the coil wire and cranking the motor a bit, and letting it sit overnite a few times.The mileage would increase and then start falling off. It worked using a Sears flush, and then stopped. The car was old and thought the rings finally quit, but then remembered the label on the can of flush changed. Now I think the formula may have changed. Telling a mechanic friend, he said he used to pull the plugs and squirt some flush in the cyls, and had never thought of pouring it down the carb.)) Another mechanic friend said. I just got oil around the rings. Don't think the flush would have sealed and lasted so long.

 

[VinceF]

Originally Posted By: bigt61
The Chevy is more than happy to get used synthetic from the Subie. Sounds like a good plan to me. You're getting maximum usage out of that oil and saving a few bucks.


It's easy to justify using a better oil in the newer Subie that way, and usually don't use it for short trips. I liked getting a motor up to temp even if not driving it far.

 

[pscholte]

Originally Posted By: VinceF
Pscholte..

Just like to be happy with what I am doing. If I had a turbo it would be more important I think. Just trying to sort out what is true. With all the Gr 111's being called synthetic, I like to know what is what. I learn a few things about what makes a good oil good. Over the years I have had some issues with oils, and I think gummed up rings. In one I switched brands, and stopped using oil, and in the one with the rings I went from 30mi to a qt to 550, pouring a little CC flush down the carb, pulling the coil wire and cranking the motor a bit, and letting it sit overnite a few times.The mileage would increase and then start falling off. It worked using a Sears flush, and then stopped. The car was old and thought the rings finally quit, but then remembered the label on the can of flush changed. Now I think the formula may have changed. Telling a mechanic friend, he said he used to pull the plugs and squirt some flush in the cyls, and had never thought of pouring it down the carb.)) Another mechanic friend said. I just got oil around the rings. Don't think the flush would have sealed and lasted so long.


VinceF,

Fully appreciate your wanting to get to the truth behind the advertising (is it a synthetic or not) and wanting the best for your engine. I think you may find, though, the longer you hang out with us, the time will come when, even if you are using an oil you are completely pleased with, you'll say, "Wow, everybody is talking about xxx and yyy. Maybe I need to switch.". And it will happen again and again. It's OK, many of us understand. Cheers

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: VinceF
Because I use 5W in the winter, and 10W in the summer, what I drained from the Subie sits for 6mo. Just have to mark the used oil jug right, whether 5 or 10W.

So you're actually reusing the oil after 6 months?

We're all a little crazy when it comes to motor oil. If you were running a mineral oil that might make some sense, but with a synthetic it doesn't. Just you a 5w30 syn' year round.

 

[VinceF]

If the QSUD was what I thought was a true synthetic I would feel better about just using the 5W30 yr round. I need to learn more about the VI's with Gr 111's to decide. I still don't understand how a true synthetic doesn't need them. I figure the QS oil uses them, and maybe more to handle more heat and stress that they say, like a 2 stage sys. Still need to find out if the UD uses Shell's XHVI. That might be a point. Like I said, one MSDS said the 5W30 used the slack wax base. The 10W30 didn't list it, and what I thought might be an omission.

 

[Stang40]

VinceF,

Fully appreciate your wanting to get to the truth behind the advertising (is it a synthetic or not) and wanting the best for your engine. I think you may find, though, the longer you hang out with us, the time will come when, even if you are using an oil you are completely pleased with, you'll say, "Wow, everybody is talking about xxx and yyy. Maybe I need to switch.". And it will happen again and again. It's OK, many of us understand. Cheers[/quote]

This is verryyyyy true....atleast now i know I'm not the only one with issues...haha

 

[Clevy]

Use a cheap,on sale 5w30 in the chev and a good oil in the Subaru. Don't re-use oil. That's crazy. Unless you are changing oil in a sterile environment te chances for contamination are very high.
Not worth the risk when you consider a jug of cheap on sale oil is under 10 bucks at Walmart.

 

[crazyoildude]

there are a lot of "better oils" according to a lot of people but how much better do you need?
qs is a good oil for the price but if the price goes up go with one that is on sale!
we got a little over 400,000 miles on an 83 oldsmobile custom cruiser with the 5.0 307 v8
and it ran good when it left here. that was on pyb 10w40 and group 7 filters we have at the shop.

 

[VinceF]

QS has looked pretty good, and guess I will stay with it till I am sure there is something better for the price.


Doesn't oil added go through the pickup screen, the oil pump and then the filter? Should remove any debris that gets in before it can get into the motor.