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Maybe a good ol coat of fresh varnish.
Pennzoil Platinum to the rescue
- Thread starter The_Nuke
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Maybe a good ol coat of fresh varnish.
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PUP 5w30 oil temp in Maxima 09 averages 198F to 208F these days (noon 90F+ weather). Coolant around 196F
In winter it takes ages to reach 190F.
In winter it takes ages to reach 190F.
197F atf temp maybe ok. Some new 4WD Toyotas operate in 190-220F by design even without towing ... People on Toyota sites argue that's too high and it's designed for mpg gain ... and add their own additional coolers.
30 years old car on syn does sound funny. my old cars are getting dino (1997) and syn-blend (2005) but if mine was running that hot (270F+) I would try syn or take it easy on the 30 years old car. Car must not have overdrive either. What's your rpm at 70 vs. 80 mph?
Btw, I have couple of Flukes and love them. Quality stuff.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that 230F is the max range. Sometimes I drive in lower gear at higher speeds to cleanup the oil. Typically I am 10-40F below that so if I see 270F I will panic
30 years old car on syn does sound funny. my old cars are getting dino (1997) and syn-blend (2005) but if mine was running that hot (270F+) I would try syn or take it easy on the 30 years old car. Car must not have overdrive either. What's your rpm at 70 vs. 80 mph?
Btw, I have couple of Flukes and love them. Quality stuff.
Edit:
Forgot to mention that 230F is the max range. Sometimes I drive in lower gear at higher speeds to cleanup the oil. Typically I am 10-40F below that so if I see 270F I will panic
Last edited:
The automatic transmission Previas never came with a tachometer. I would imagine I’m in the 3,500 to 3,800 rpm range.
I looked at some track use motor oil threads and 270F+ is definitely track use sorts of numbers.
I am now suspicious that my reading was compromised from cross interference from the exhaust headers. I should have been more careful because I was reading 238F at the transmission until I realized the exhaust pipe heat was interfering with my readings.
Today will be 90F+ again, I will do the same drive and see what my temperatures read at. I’ll report back later today.
I looked at some track use motor oil threads and 270F+ is definitely track use sorts of numbers.
I am now suspicious that my reading was compromised from cross interference from the exhaust headers. I should have been more careful because I was reading 238F at the transmission until I realized the exhaust pipe heat was interfering with my readings.
Today will be 90F+ again, I will do the same drive and see what my temperatures read at. I’ll report back later today.
Yes, it's good to run a quality synthetic oil such as Pennzoil Platinum... or Valvoline Advanced... or Castrol Edge... or Mobil 1... or Quaker State Ultimate... or Havoline Pro DS... or whatever is your favorite brand.
224F is not that hot for motor oil. Approx 230F is the "normal operation" upper limit for most modern motor oils, meaning they deliver maximum protection below that temperature. Beyond 230F is an "intermittent band" of approximately 30 degrees in the temperature range (i.e. 230-270F) where the oil is not protecting the engine quite as well as in the normal range -- this is a time when the oil's anti-wear additives are critical. Short periods in the intermittent band are OK but you don't want to stay there long. These are blanket statements and the results will vary depending on application (engine), usage, ambient temps, road/traffic conditions, etc.
My personal limit: I would pull over and shut down if my engine or the oil ever hit 250F... I usually hold onto my vehicles for many years and don't need to invite problems. Besides, if I ever saw 250F, there's a significant problem that needs to be fixed.
224F is not that hot for motor oil. Approx 230F is the "normal operation" upper limit for most modern motor oils, meaning they deliver maximum protection below that temperature. Beyond 230F is an "intermittent band" of approximately 30 degrees in the temperature range (i.e. 230-270F) where the oil is not protecting the engine quite as well as in the normal range -- this is a time when the oil's anti-wear additives are critical. Short periods in the intermittent band are OK but you don't want to stay there long. These are blanket statements and the results will vary depending on application (engine), usage, ambient temps, road/traffic conditions, etc.
My personal limit: I would pull over and shut down if my engine or the oil ever hit 250F... I usually hold onto my vehicles for many years and don't need to invite problems. Besides, if I ever saw 250F, there's a significant problem that needs to be fixed.
DGXR, I appreciate your definitive statements, please let me know your source. I am wanting to put this to rest.
Essentially, from reading your statements I would have to jump to a PAO synthetic such as Amsoil. I’m ready to make the move over, if my oil temps are indeed 270F+.
I am almost certainly convinced now that my IR gun readings were compromised from the close proximity to the exhaust headers. I am eager to take this drive in the afternoon and get a better reading. I’m going to estimate that my readings will be no greater than 255F. Maybe wishful thinking, maybe not
Essentially, from reading your statements I would have to jump to a PAO synthetic such as Amsoil. I’m ready to make the move over, if my oil temps are indeed 270F+.
I am almost certainly convinced now that my IR gun readings were compromised from the close proximity to the exhaust headers. I am eager to take this drive in the afternoon and get a better reading. I’m going to estimate that my readings will be no greater than 255F. Maybe wishful thinking, maybe not
As per the previous link in this post, conventional oil is toast above 250f and synthetic above 300f. I've seen these results in many researches in the past and I believe them. I don't think you have to resort to Amsoil.
Sorry for the false alarm everyone, my IR gun was indeed compromised in its reading because of the exhaust manifold.
This morning driving into work I was doing 80+ mph and the ambient temperature was 71F. I drove for approximately 20-25 mins on the freeway. When I got to work I made sure I was getting a reading from directly beneath the engine oil pan. It read 235F. Very normal temperature.
Then this afternoon it hit 91F again. I did the same drive as before when I supposedly hit 270F, but was not able to maintain the 80+ mph that I was doing previously. I did not go below about 70 mph though. After about 30 mins of driving at this speed the engine oil pan read 235F. So it seems that the temperature of the motor oil is relatively stable despite the ambient temperature between 71F this morning and 91F this afternoon.
I also scanned the temperature of the ATF pan and got an increase to 204F, which I am sure is still fine for Amsoil ATF. Seems like my ATF temperatures went up because of the slight traffic that caused me to brake and disengage the torque converter lockup.
So I was alarmed for no real good reason. Looks like my Previa's engine and transmission will be fine cruising at 80+ mph this summer on Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage and Amsoil ATF.
Thanks for all the helpful replies!
This morning driving into work I was doing 80+ mph and the ambient temperature was 71F. I drove for approximately 20-25 mins on the freeway. When I got to work I made sure I was getting a reading from directly beneath the engine oil pan. It read 235F. Very normal temperature.
Then this afternoon it hit 91F again. I did the same drive as before when I supposedly hit 270F, but was not able to maintain the 80+ mph that I was doing previously. I did not go below about 70 mph though. After about 30 mins of driving at this speed the engine oil pan read 235F. So it seems that the temperature of the motor oil is relatively stable despite the ambient temperature between 71F this morning and 91F this afternoon.
I also scanned the temperature of the ATF pan and got an increase to 204F, which I am sure is still fine for Amsoil ATF. Seems like my ATF temperatures went up because of the slight traffic that caused me to brake and disengage the torque converter lockup.
So I was alarmed for no real good reason. Looks like my Previa's engine and transmission will be fine cruising at 80+ mph this summer on Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage and Amsoil ATF.
Thanks for all the helpful replies!
You would be shocked at some of the new vehicles.
Ford 10R80 Trans Redzone - 302F (150C)
Ford 10R140 Trans Yellowzone - 266F (130C)
People freak out at 220F.
Ford 10R80 Trans Redzone - 302F (150C)
Ford 10R140 Trans Yellowzone - 266F (130C)
People freak out at 220F.
These are newer transmission designs that are engineered to handle that sort of heat continuously. I heard this somewhere, I think it was in a thread here on BITOG, that stated that fluids are more and more thermally stable. They can take the heat continuously, but depending upon your transmission’s internals there may be a hardware weak point.
For example, some of the plastic connectors inside the transmission may begin to deteriorate and cause other issues. Therefore, it is crucial to know what the safe operating temperatures are for your specific transmission is as well.
I haven’t owned my Toyota Previa for too long, but I noticed after initially driving it that it would want to jump/pop into drive/reverse when shifting the lever. I noticed that it would happen after having driven the vehicle for 45 mins or so. I assumed it was due to heat. Therefore, I installed a transmission cooler. This is before I ever had a IR thermometer.
Anyways, after having the transmission cooler in it would not jump/pop into drive/reverse anymore after 45 mins or so of driving. Then it was during stop and go traffic that it would again exhibit that jump/pop into gear behavior. So I figured that the transmission cooler was not getting enough air flow. The way I had it installed half of of the cooler was covered by the bumper, so it never was really able to get adequate air flow. So I installed an electric fan. Solved the heat issue in everything, but the hottest ambient temperatures.
I just recorded 204F at the ATF pan today and it was again exhibiting that sort of jump/pop into gear. I am not sure if that sort of temperature is significantly detrimental for the transmission, but it is not comfortable to see the transmission change in its shifting characteristic because of ever increasing temperatures. I am likely to do an UOA on the Amsoil ATF around 30k and see how the transmission is wearing.
But overall, I am confident that my vehicle will be able to deal with the hot summer days of the Southeast for the time being.
For example, some of the plastic connectors inside the transmission may begin to deteriorate and cause other issues. Therefore, it is crucial to know what the safe operating temperatures are for your specific transmission is as well.
I haven’t owned my Toyota Previa for too long, but I noticed after initially driving it that it would want to jump/pop into drive/reverse when shifting the lever. I noticed that it would happen after having driven the vehicle for 45 mins or so. I assumed it was due to heat. Therefore, I installed a transmission cooler. This is before I ever had a IR thermometer.
Anyways, after having the transmission cooler in it would not jump/pop into drive/reverse anymore after 45 mins or so of driving. Then it was during stop and go traffic that it would again exhibit that jump/pop into gear behavior. So I figured that the transmission cooler was not getting enough air flow. The way I had it installed half of of the cooler was covered by the bumper, so it never was really able to get adequate air flow. So I installed an electric fan. Solved the heat issue in everything, but the hottest ambient temperatures.
I just recorded 204F at the ATF pan today and it was again exhibiting that sort of jump/pop into gear. I am not sure if that sort of temperature is significantly detrimental for the transmission, but it is not comfortable to see the transmission change in its shifting characteristic because of ever increasing temperatures. I am likely to do an UOA on the Amsoil ATF around 30k and see how the transmission is wearing.
But overall, I am confident that my vehicle will be able to deal with the hot summer days of the Southeast for the time being.
I agree that automotive fluids are getting better and better. Improvements just over the last 10-12 years are huge. Even the cheapest "regular" motor oil is a synthetic blend - check the descriptions for 5w20 and 5w30: Chevron Supreme
I'm sure the same is true for other types of fluids, generally.
I'm sure the same is true for other types of fluids, generally.
Curious where your outside temp sensor is located. At 119, seems like it must be about an inch off the pavement. The one in my Focus has maxed out at 102 this week. Tollway and Bush Freeway are hot roads in July.
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The other day my work truck read 109F.
Try the Ultra Platinum 5W/20. Excellent results and my oil samples show it. Difficult to find, but very happy with it.
That was at the tail end of my afternoon commute home yesterday, which consisted of 60 min or so if stop and go traffic covering about 35 miles.
When I first saw that, knowing how many more of those the engine will have to endure in the coming weeks, I nearly broke my arm patting myself on the back for choosing to run a good quality full synthetic oil at the last oil change (Pennzoil Platinum HM 5w-20).
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