Pad/Rotor Replacement? Should I go Drilled/Slotted.

Exactly. BMW drilled rotors are not drilled, they are cast with the holes in them. Much stronger than drilling a bunch of holes in a rotor.
A quick check with google shows there is no such thing as cast holes. It's a myth. They are drilled holes in cast iron.

Besides, with what I know about manufacturing, cast holes would not be stronger. The cast surface is rough and has surface effects that make the material weaker and more prone to cyclic thermal fatigue.

They would also be considerably more difficult to manufacture. The sand cores to make the holes would be notoriously prone to breakage.

Or are you talking about radially vented rotors, present on most cars since the 1970s or maybe even earlier?
 
A quick check with google shows there is no such thing as cast holes. It's a myth. They are drilled holes in cast iron.

Besides, with what I know about manufacturing, cast holes would not be stronger. The cast surface is rough and has surface effects that make the material weaker and more prone to cyclic thermal fatigue.

They would also be considerably more difficult to manufacture. The sand cores to make the holes would be notoriously prone to breakage.

Or are you talking about radially vented rotors, present on most cars since the 1970s or maybe even earlier?

Hmm, did some googling, you may be right. I may have been mislead. I will have to look into it more.
 
As far as I know, Redstuff will not handle it well. I have them on Tiguan. They are good on street, but no one is running them on track. Run Yellowstuff if going EBC but there are a lot of complaints about them lately on track.
My choice in that price range would be Ferodo DS2500 or Hawk HP+.
Track days complete. Correct - EBC Redstuff up front didn't work so great, after 2x24 min sessions my f. brakes were garbage...lots of vibration and just poor braking performance from high speeds. Found some Carquest rotors at a nearby Advance Auto and the track support folks (New German Performance) got me sorted with install of the rotors, EBC Yellowstuff pads, and a fresh bleed with Motul RBF600. Second day was great with no brake issues. They work ok around town, but they are a bit noisier and v. dusty. Also not great until they warm up.
 
Track days complete. Correct - EBC Redstuff up front didn't work so great, after 2x24 min sessions my f. brakes were garbage...lots of vibration and just poor braking performance from high speeds. Found some Carquest rotors at a nearby Advance Auto and the track support folks (New German Performance) got me sorted with install of the rotors, EBC Yellowstuff pads, and a fresh bleed with Motul RBF600. Second day was great with no brake issues. They work ok around town, but they are a bit noisier and v. dusty. Also not great until they warm up.
Yellowstuff can get ridiculously noisy, especially when super cold. I had them on VW CC. I mean, your brake utilization will depend on track. Track that I go to has one line where I can develop maybe 120-125mph, but after that it is very technical, and my 230hp cannot develope to much speed between two corners. I ran last time Stoptech Sport just to try them, and they held very good. Not sure though they are any improvement over OEM.
Try Ferodo DS2500 too. I heard greats tuff about them., Also, PFC's are really good.
 
Yellowstuff can get ridiculously noisy, especially when super cold. I had them on VW CC. I mean, your brake utilization will depend on track. Track that I go to has one line where I can develop maybe 120-125mph, but after that it is very technical, and my 230hp cannot develope to much speed between two corners. I ran last time Stoptech Sport just to try them, and they held very good. Not sure though they are any improvement over OEM.
Try Ferodo DS2500 too. I heard greats tuff about them., Also, PFC's are really good.
Driving around today, actually used to the yellows now, really only takes a few stops leaving my neighborhood to get them feeling better. Some occasional squeaks. Dust seems about on part with reds but I only have about 200 miles on them or so. This was VIR in VA - long straight I got it up to 130 but then of course slowing down from that is what cooked them into a left hander. Day 2 with the new brake setup I kept it 120 max on that straight. My car is putting out about 360 crank/310 wheel (or so) and actually could get up to speed through the tech sections pretty well so again, more speed = more brake. My wagon weighs around 3650 or so with 2 people in it in track-day mode.
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The Ferodos DS2500s and PFC PF01s would be one step up above the EBC yellows in feel and heat range. They dust about the same but are far much louder than the Yellows from my experience. In fact in the two sets of EBC yellows I've used for the evo I can only remember them squealing once when it was in the 30s outside.
 
The Ferodos DS2500s and PFC PF01s would be one step up above the EBC yellows in feel and heat range. They dust about the same but are far much louder than the Yellows from my experience. In fact in the two sets of EBC yellows I've used for the evo I can only remember them squealing once when it was in the 30s outside.
Looking at it more, the yellows are really an aggressive street/mild track pad vs. the dedicated track stuff.
 
Looking at it more, the yellows are really an aggressive street/mild track pad vs. the dedicated track stuff.
Yeah, they are track/street, not just track. Noise on mine was coming at stop lights, when slowly approaching. Holy moly, everyone looked at me :)
I had to bed them again several times. But, they were good overall. Dust was much worse than Red Stuff, btu this was some 5yrs ago. Maybe they changed compound since then a bit.
E90 328 xDrive is around 3,600lbs, so you will definitely carry more speed. I know a guy that tracks his 2019 GTI APR Stage I and he moved from Yellow Stuff (kept them in rear) to Carbotech. He is pretty happy with that set up. But, if these fit your style and track, they are pretty affordable.
 
Yeah, they are track/street, not just track. Noise on mine was coming at stop lights, when slowly approaching. Holy moly, everyone looked at me :)
I had to bed them again several times. But, they were good overall. Dust was much worse than Red Stuff, btu this was some 5yrs ago. Maybe they changed compound since then a bit.
E90 328 xDrive is around 3,600lbs, so you will definitely carry more speed. I know a guy that tracks his 2019 GTI APR Stage I and he moved from Yellow Stuff (kept them in rear) to Carbotech. He is pretty happy with that set up. But, if these fit your style and track, they are pretty affordable.
For the couple times I'll track the car, they seem fine. My standard Golf wagon came with 288s up front so I upgraded to the 312s which is the base model GTI size. I really should do the Golf R f. brakes (340s) - my car is big enough/has enough power for them and it's an easy/inexpensive swap if you find someone with an R that is upgraded to a BBK.
 
For the couple times I'll track the car, they seem fine. My standard Golf wagon came with 288s up front so I upgraded to the 312s which is the base model GTI size. I really should do the Golf R f. brakes (340s) - my car is big enough/has enough power for them and it's an easy/inexpensive swap if you find someone with an R that is upgraded to a BBK.
Do you have cooling air duct in bumper? From photo you posted I do not see it. BMW's for example come with air ducts regardless of package, and it helps, a lot.
 
Do you have cooling air duct in bumper? From photo you posted I do not see it. BMW's for example come with air ducts regardless of package, and it helps, a lot.
I do not - I have the Audi RS3 ducts that attach to the lower control arms to help direct some air over there. Have to modify them for the base model Golf but still should get some airflow from them.
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I do not - I have the Audi RS3 ducts that attach to the lower control arms to help direct some air over there. Have to modify them for the base model Golf but still should get some airflow from them.
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Yeah, go with that before dumping some serious cash. Though, if you can find used Golf R calipers it might be worth, but I would still go with ducts.
 
Yeah, go with that before dumping some serious cash. Though, if you can find used Golf R calipers it might be worth, but I would still go with ducts.
I believe you can buy a new f. end bumper cover that has the built in ducts from Europe (the Golf GTI TCR?) but lots of $$.
 
I've been happy with YellowStuff on my '04 350Z solely on the street (non-Brembo brakes). They are wearing well and have been quiet. The shims are key for quietness. If you want loud squeaky pads, try Porterfield R4 with no shims at all. You'll sound like a whole fleet of trash trucks!
 
I use Ferodo ds2500 on the rear of my car and Brembo hp2000 on the front. Front has brembo calipers, rear has floating caliper with handbrake mechanism.

The brembo are whisper quiet and handle more heat than an OEM semi-metallic but aren't available for my rear brakes. I haven't had any overheating issues with these brakes yet but it seems they are not as tolerant to heat as Ferodo ds2500. Probably most comparable to EBC yellowstuff.

The rear DS2500 are quiet when they are stone cold but can develop a low speed squeal when they get some heat into them. Fort street driving only an issue in summer and just before coming to a complete stop. Comparable to the squaeling automatics often develop on their brakes. I haven't tried them when scorching hot so don't know if the squeal gets worse or dissappears again at higher temperatures. With the wintery weather (10 to 15 degrees C right now) there's not enough heat in them to cause squealing in anything that resembles street driving.
 
I use Ferodo ds2500 on the rear of my car and Brembo hp2000 on the front. Front has brembo calipers, rear has floating caliper with handbrake mechanism.

The brembo are whisper quiet and handle more heat than an OEM semi-metallic but aren't available for my rear brakes. I haven't had any overheating issues with these brakes yet but it seems they are not as tolerant to heat as Ferodo ds2500. Probably most comparable to EBC yellowstuff.

The rear DS2500 are quiet when they are stone cold but can develop a low speed squeal when they get some heat into them. Fort street driving only an issue in summer and just before coming to a complete stop. Comparable to the squaeling automatics often develop on their brakes. I haven't tried them when scorching hot so don't know if the squeal gets worse or dissappears again at higher temperatures. With the wintery weather (10 to 15 degrees C right now) there's not enough heat in them to cause squealing in anything that resembles street driving.
From what I heard DS2500 are really noisy after track session. They are OK if bed in again.
 
I suspected as much, thanks. Seems all the better performing pads trade off quiet operation for performance
Yes, those track capable. Problem is trade off performance cold vs. warmed up. Those that are superb on track are not that good in your neighborhood as they need some temperature. I have school 100 yards from my home. First braking is the most important one. OE pads are best in that environment or slightly improved performance pads. I think I will get DS2500 next year when season starts, but probably sue them only during summer. Once they close track, back to OEM.
 
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