P0442 and Capless Fuel Filler

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Sep 14, 2015
Messages
863
Location
NE Ohio
Our recently acquired '14 Expedition is producing a consistently recurring small EVAP leak code. I've done the FordTechMakuloco method of WD-40 and funnel-thrusting to no avail.

I filled it up today, from about 1/2 to full, and after I stopped at the store and got home noticed a gasoline smell. Looking underneath to my relief there weren't any signs of leakage anywhere near the tank. The filler neck, however was wet from the inlet down.

Does this point to a faulty and/or leaking filler neck? There's not a chance that a purge solenoid etc could be causing this, right? Just want to make sure the filler neck is the culprit before I drop $100+ on it.
 
I forgot I had a picture to add.

20230816_181008.jpg

So what's the best method for smoke testing? I see some smoke generators on Amazon for about $90. I'm guessing it would cost that much or more to have someone do that and diagnose. Can't see that it's a loaner tool item at any parts stores.
 
The best way to smoke test the fuel system is to drop a burning piece of oak wood down the filler neck.
I'm not to that level of desperation... yet.

How hard would it be to change it to a capped filler neck? Maybe from a u pull it yard?

From the pick it doesn't look too hard.
I like this idea but I have my doubts that it wouldn't cause even more EVAP issues and I'm not sure that it would fit inside the filler door, the 'EasyFuel' opening sits pretty close to the door.
 
I also find the filler suspect
But are you sure the purge valve is not sticking, being the leak?
Ford's of the era are famous for purge valve issues
A light tap on it with a screwdriver handle, see if it's sticking?
 
I forgot I had a picture to add.

View attachment 173349
So what's the best method for smoke testing? I see some smoke generators on Amazon for about $90. I'm guessing it would cost that much or more to have someone do that and diagnose. Can't see that it's a loaner tool item at any parts stores.
To do the cap less systems you would need an adapter that probably cost more than the cheap tester, that one looks like a real easy swap. It is probably cheaper to change it. The adapter is about $100 alone plus the $100 tester, to have someone do may cost that or more depending on how long they play around looking for it and going by the look of that there is a good chance you need a filler anyway.
I don't like throwing parts at a job and if were a filler that required the tank or rear sub frame to be dropped to change it then definitly diagnose first but when it is this price and this easy go ahead and change it.

 
To do the cap less systems you would need an adapter that probably cost more than the cheap tester, that one looks like a real easy swap. It is probably cheaper to change it. The adapter is about $100 alone plus the $100 tester, to have someone do may cost that or more depending on how long they play around looking for it and going by the look of that there is a good chance you need a filler anyway.
I don't like throwing parts at a job and if were a filler that required the tank or rear sub frame to be dropped to change it then definitly diagnose first but when it is this price and this easy go ahead and change it.

I definitely want to avoid throwing parts at it. I do also know, at least from knowledge gained from YouTube, that the flap/seal at the top of the neck doesn't' seem to be functioning properly. Supposedly it's supposed to 'latch' closed and only be able to be opened when the catches at both sides are pressed in. This one opens easily, though, with no catching.
 
I also find the filler suspect
But are you sure the purge valve is not sticking, being the leak?
Ford's of the era are famous for purge valve issues
A light tap on it with a screwdriver handle, see if it's sticking?
Purge valve would be the one at the back of the intake? I will give it a few taps later today.
 
Our recently acquired '14 Expedition is producing a consistently recurring small EVAP leak code. I've done the FordTechMakuloco method of WD-40 and funnel-thrusting to no avail.

I filled it up today, from about 1/2 to full, and after I stopped at the store and got home noticed a gasoline smell. Looking underneath to my relief there weren't any signs of leakage anywhere near the tank. The filler neck, however was wet from the inlet down.

Does this point to a faulty and/or leaking filler neck? There's not a chance that a purge solenoid etc could be causing this, right? Just want to make sure the filler neck is the culprit before I drop $100+ on it.
Look to see if there is a recall. Second the Expedition forum seems to have alot of responses to this. The most common one is this
"In all my experience, the purge valve up front is the first thing to try. Mine was getting stuck and pulling it apart to test and dropping the hood fixed it."

A smoke test And a bidirectional scanner is better than a parts cannon.

You can use a brake bleeder pump as a vacuum test on the purge valve. It should hold vacuum at engine
 
Look to see if there is a recall. Second the Expedition forum seems to have alot of responses to this. The most common one is this
"In all my experience, the purge valve up front is the first thing to try. Mine was getting stuck and pulling it apart to test and dropping the hood fixed it."

A smoke test And a bidirectional scanner is better than a parts cannon.

You can use a brake bleeder pump as a vacuum test on the purge valve. It should hold vacuum at engine
All clear on a recall VIN search. I found a lot of answers on the Expedition forum too but most were regarding 2nd gen with cap style fuel fillers, this one is 3rd gen. I'm just wanting to make sure that a sticking purge valve can't cause this type of leak at the filler neck. I have slim no no doubt that the filler neck is damaged as to how it doesn't snap closed or seem to seal properly.
 
How is the valve operated? By vacuum or an electric motor? I would try to find if it is even closing.
Both should be pretty easy to test, either apply 12V to the motor connector or suck on a tube going to the valve. It should move freely and easily.

Or are these things simple flapper valves that are spring loaded?
 
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How is the valve operated? By vacuum or an electric motor? I would try to find if it is even closing.
Both should be pretty easy to test, either apply 12V to the motor connector or suck on a tube going to the valve. It should move freely and easily.

Or are these things simple flapper valves that are spring loaded?
The flap at the top of the filler neck is just spring loaded. Should lock with tabs on either side that are unlocked by sticking gasoline nozzle or 'emergency' funnel in.
 
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