One Last Ford Modular Motor Oil Question- Mobil 1

[johnnydc]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: johnnydc
I have a buddy that has 1970 Chevelle with a very big and powerful engine. I don't remember the cid but we figured it out to be 9.2 litres, and runs 10-30 Mobil 1 with no problems. He races this car every weekend also.
And no I'm not a Mobil 1 fanboy, although I have tried it a couple times.


Awesome car. My uncle has the ls-6 454. He bought it brand new in 1970. It's completely stock and rarely sees the light of day. The torque that engine has is incredible and will break the tires loose at will.
He says that his car,because its all original and has the ls-6 engine and colour combo is worth 250000 grand and he has seen them go for more at the Barrett-Jackson auction. He said he bought it for 9000 which in 1970 is the equivalent to something like 80 thousand in today's dollars.
He has already willed it to me when he dies,since I'm the only gearhead in our family.
I'm almost looking forward to him dying(I know,I know but come on,what a car). It's got drum brakes iirc. In the 70s I guess stopping wasn't really a concern.
Hehehe


That car is definitly worth alot of money. I would not change a thing on that bad boy. I'm not a big Chevy fan but them there Chevelles are awesome cars.

 

[johnnydc]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: johnnydc
Originally Posted By: Clevy
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.


Sounds like a nice Mustang. By the way, What oil do you run in that beast?


Before I blew up the 2v I used various different 40 grades. From rotella t-6 with a can of mos2 to conventional hdeos. My cams show no wear whatsoever and I put 100k on it.
The 2v died after it shot out another plug but this time a chunk got ingested and chipped the piston,so this year I've got a 4v installed.
Track days will be the mighty M1 0w-40 with a couple quarts of tgmo to thin it a bit but in between track days,and IF an interval comes up I'll be using whatever 20 grade is on sale or in my stockpile.
I'm running a 2 stage plate kit this season which is capable of 300hp. I'd be retarded to spray that size shot all at once,it will snap connecting rods for sure since the Mach 1's that were matched to manual trannies came with everything forged except the connecting rods,so that's the weakest link.
The auto's had a 6 bolt cast crank and the manuals had an 8 bolt forged crank. The aluminum blocks can withstand 800hp with proper tuning and as long as I spray in stages and don't hit it all at once with that much nitrous I shouldn't have any issues.
I'd rather have boost over nitrous and will at some point bolt the m112 blower I have on top of this car but once I do that's when it will be track only,and no more daily driving. As my summer dd I'd rather have nitrous because the engine is only stressed at the track while spraying instead of running boosted full time.
That's my though process anyways.
I want to build a fox body before this one becomes a dedicated track car. I have a Capri that I'm building with a friend this season. We are welding in a cage because anything faster then 12s needs one. I've got an automatic for it. It's the overdrive version and I was thinking of at least 3600 stall speed for the converter and a trans brake.
I figure the Capri will keep my need for speed at the track satiated and keeps my 2000 as a driver,instead of a trailer queen.
I know,big plans right.
I was considering fuel injection on a 351w but because its a track car we are going with a 750 double pumper,big cam,8000 rpm,tubbed with a narrowed rear end.
It won't have good road manners but should haul in the 1320.


OH NO

Not Mobil 1. It will wear the cams down to toothpics and your pistons will wear down into cones!!!

 

[07GT500]

I'm switching from Mobil 1 5W-50 recommended by Ford to their 0W-40 both oils are carbon copy in add packs except for VISCOUSITY...my 5.4L Supercharged is never abused tracked or raced except for the odd launch comming on a highway ramp or a RICER challenging me and I get !@#$ off and I like to smoke them my Shelby is a SLEEPER stripe delete...drop it 2 nd hit redline (6250rpms) and you're GONE!!! I could probably run a 10W-30 but I like a bit of a cushion I mainly cruise the car to odd Show n'Shine's or on a nice sunny day to a Tim Horton's...I like Mobil products I'm still on the fence for Shell's T6 I've read but GOOD things about it the only thing I don't like it's very HIGH in MAGNESIUM.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: johnnydc
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: johnnydc
Originally Posted By: Clevy
What an absurd comment. There is an RP VS Mobil 1 thread here where the mobil cams had a deeper wear scar but once the scar was measured it turned out to be immeasurable iirc.
I'm no fan of Mobil 1 however to say that Mobil 1 oils are causing engine failures is absurdity.
I'm also a mustang enthusiast and the mod motors do great on the 20 grade oils so going up a grade isn't necessary unless you have a consumption issue or you drive it hard enough to raise oil temps enough that film strength is compromised,which is very hard on the street and would only be a factor during track use.
Ignore the entire comment. The only thing I can say about Mobil 1 in my old 2v is that the engines acoustics became more noticeable(louder valve train). I doubt that the extra noise will contribute to more wear though so I wouldn't and am not worried about it.
I used nothing but 40 grades in my mustang because I felt that 20 grades were evil and my engine would dissolve. I now see how absurd that way of thinking is and 20 grades are not shortening engine life. In fact engines are lasting longer than ever before using 20 grades.
I've now got a 4v from a Mach in my 2000gt. I haven't gotten it dyno tuned yet since I'm running a very big nitrous shot and I've got Mac headers and prochamber exhaust,as well as various intake changes and an oil cooler,so using a 20 grade will not concern me in the least this season.
Just to re-iterate,and remember I'm a thicker is better guy,unless you have a condition that requires thicker oil I would run the recommended 20 grade and enjoy the minor fuel savings and less start up wear,as well as a free'er revving engine.
I'll bet tig is rolling in laughter right now. The guy runs 0w-20 AFE Mobil in his ford engines,at 10000 mile intervals,and his engines are spotless inside and there is no visible cam wear in the pics he has posted.
The only part of the posted quote that is true is that Mobil adjusted their formula,which every oil producer does. Additive costs change as do supply and environmental factors but I doubt the oil is worse performing in 99.99999999% of drivers engines.
And I'm no Mobil fan either.


Sounds like a nice Mustang. By the way, What oil do you run in that beast?


Before I blew up the 2v I used various different 40 grades. From rotella t-6 with a can of mos2 to conventional hdeos. My cams show no wear whatsoever and I put 100k on it.
The 2v died after it shot out another plug but this time a chunk got ingested and chipped the piston,so this year I've got a 4v installed.
Track days will be the mighty M1 0w-40 with a couple quarts of tgmo to thin it a bit but in between track days,and IF an interval comes up I'll be using whatever 20 grade is on sale or in my stockpile.
I'm running a 2 stage plate kit this season which is capable of 300hp. I'd be retarded to spray that size shot all at once,it will snap connecting rods for sure since the Mach 1's that were matched to manual trannies came with everything forged except the connecting rods,so that's the weakest link.
The auto's had a 6 bolt cast crank and the manuals had an 8 bolt forged crank. The aluminum blocks can withstand 800hp with proper tuning and as long as I spray in stages and don't hit it all at once with that much nitrous I shouldn't have any issues.
I'd rather have boost over nitrous and will at some point bolt the m112 blower I have on top of this car but once I do that's when it will be track only,and no more daily driving. As my summer dd I'd rather have nitrous because the engine is only stressed at the track while spraying instead of running boosted full time.
That's my though process anyways.
I want to build a fox body before this one becomes a dedicated track car. I have a Capri that I'm building with a friend this season. We are welding in a cage because anything faster then 12s needs one. I've got an automatic for it. It's the overdrive version and I was thinking of at least 3600 stall speed for the converter and a trans brake.
I figure the Capri will keep my need for speed at the track satiated and keeps my 2000 as a driver,instead of a trailer queen.
I know,big plans right.
I was considering fuel injection on a 351w but because its a track car we are going with a 750 double pumper,big cam,8000 rpm,tubbed with a narrowed rear end.
It won't have good road manners but should haul in the 1320.


OH NO

Not Mobil 1. It will wear the cams down to toothpics and your pistons will wear down into cones!!!

Only if the engine doesn't dissolve using such a 20 grade oil. Hehehe

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: 07GT500
I'm switching from Mobil 1 5W-50 recommended by Ford to their 0W-40 both oils are carbon copy in add packs except for VISCOUSITY...my 5.4L Supercharged is never abused tracked or raced except for the odd launch comming on a highway ramp or a RICER challenging me and I get !@#$ off and I like to smoke them my Shelby is a SLEEPER stripe delete...drop it 2 nd hit redline (6250rpms) and you're GONE!!! I could probably run a 10W-30 but I like a bit of a cushion I mainly cruise the car to odd Show n'Shine's or on a nice sunny day to a Tim Horton's...I like Mobil products I'm still on the fence for Shell's T6 I've read but GOOD things about it the only thing I don't like it's very HIGH in MAGNESIUM.


Nice car. I really don't think you can go wrong with the 0w-40. Great oil and cost isn't insane. Easy to find too. I'm starting to see its many virtues. Might even get a bit of a fuel economy boost.
Does that car have a real oil pressure gauge. If so maybe have a look and make sure you don't lose much idle pressure.
Only 6250 rev limit. I'll be spinning my 4v to 7500,but I don't have that pretty twin screw bolted on top. Not yet anyways.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: 07GT500
I'm switching from Mobil 1 5W-50 recommended by Ford to their 0W-40 both oils are carbon copy in add packs except for VISCOUSITY...my 5.4L Supercharged is never abused tracked or raced except for the odd launch comming on a highway ramp or a RICER challenging me and I get !@#$ off and I like to smoke them my Shelby is a SLEEPER stripe delete...drop it 2 nd hit redline (6250rpms) and you're GONE!!! I could probably run a 10W-30 but I like a bit of a cushion I mainly cruise the car to odd Show n'Shine's or on a nice sunny day to a Tim Horton's...I like Mobil products I'm still on the fence for Shell's T6 I've read but GOOD things about it the only thing I don't like it's very HIGH in MAGNESIUM.


Nice car. I really don't think you can go wrong with the 0w-40. Great oil and cost isn't insane. Easy to find too. I'm starting to see its many virtues.


You mean other than the fact that it's major ingredients were forged in the groin of Zeus and suckled from the breast of Aphrodite?

 

[229]

That excreta sounds nasty.

 

[OVERKILL]

 

[Torrid]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

Awesome

 

[RobbS]

Well, I hope to not upset anyone but I got all my fluids changed out with Amsoil products. For the engine I installed a Mobil1 oil filter with 7 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 OE. I put Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 & Amsoil Slip Lock Gear Oil Additive in the differential. Transmission has Mobil1 ATF & I have a short throw shifter by MGW to put in.
-Everything is smooth & quiet.

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: RobbS
Well, I hope to not upset anyone but I got all my fluids changed out with Amsoil products. For the engine I installed a Mobil1 oil filter with 7 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 OE. I put Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 & Amsoil Slip Lock Gear Oil Additive in the differential. Transmission has Mobil1 ATF & I have a short throw shifter by MGW to put in.
-Everything is smooth & quiet.


Not a thing wrong with Amsoil,besides it's your money,your car,etc.You'll be fine.

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL

 

[buster]

Nothing wrong with Amsoil quality at all. Top notch. It's their slimy marketing and business practices I don't like.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: RobbS
Well, I hope to not upset anyone but I got all my fluids changed out with Amsoil products. For the engine I installed a Mobil1 oil filter with 7 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 OE. I put Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 & Amsoil Slip Lock Gear Oil Additive in the differential. Transmission has Mobil1 ATF & I have a short throw shifter by MGW to put in.
-Everything is smooth & quiet.


The oe line is no better than any API certified oil easily attained from Walmart. I hope you got it cheap.
I like Amsoil but I wouldn't bother with anything other than their SSO line.

 

[Ben99GT]

The only time I've ever seen a Modular cam go "flat" anywhere is when you have PTV contact, then the RFF can slap the cam lobe as it's kicked off during contact.

 

[RobbS]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RobbS
Well, I hope to not upset anyone but I got all my fluids changed out with Amsoil products. For the engine I installed a Mobil1 oil filter with 7 quarts of Amsoil 5W-30 OE. I put Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 & Amsoil Slip Lock Gear Oil Additive in the differential. Transmission has Mobil1 ATF & I have a short throw shifter by MGW to put in.
-Everything is smooth & quiet.


The oe line is no better than any API certified oil easily attained from Walmart. I hope you got it cheap.
I like Amsoil but I wouldn't bother with anything other than their SSO line.

I'm not concerned with the quality lineup of Amsoil products I chose right now because it's done, did, in there. The engine is so very quiet and sounds so happy that I am just enjoying driving the [censored] out of it, but I'll keep that in mind next time around.

 

[Pablo]

OE so far is showing to an excellent oil and an excellent value. Use with confidence.