Will it run if you take the gas cap off? It's a long shot, but costs nothing to try.
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Old Sears edger just won't start
- Thread starter JHZR2
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JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get it running on carb cleaner then override the governor so it revs to the moon. It's just gotta suck a loogie through the carb, once that's done you're good to go.
That was my initial thought and hope, there is a throttle lever on the machine, but when set to the fastest position, if I play with the governor, there's no more room for motion of the throttle plate inside of the carburetor. It is as wide open as possible when I have it at the fastest setting, so I don't think that I can start the engine with the speed any faster than it is already.
Get it running on carb cleaner then override the governor so it revs to the moon. It's just gotta suck a loogie through the carb, once that's done you're good to go.
That was my initial thought and hope, there is a throttle lever on the machine, but when set to the fastest position, if I play with the governor, there's no more room for motion of the throttle plate inside of the carburetor. It is as wide open as possible when I have it at the fastest setting, so I don't think that I can start the engine with the speed any faster than it is already.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: chad8
First you should spray the carbs outside just for looks.
Then you should remove both needle valves , but screw them in and keep track of their initial setting. usually 1.5 turns out . Take some carb spray with a jet tube and jam it in the needle valve holes. Spray until clean about 3-5 seconds. . Then get an air compressor with a needle inflation valve or any small opening. Hold it tight into the opening and blow them clean.
That should be it.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but there are three screws on the carburetor it looks like. How do I know which ones are which?
I like your concept but given the age is that smarter to just remove the carburetor and clean the whole thing in solvent?
The weird thing about this carburetor is that there is no bowl hanging underneath. Is that normal or just this kind of carburetor being used? I've never cleaned or refurbished a carburetor but I know there are lots of videos out there including a few that were posted right here in this thread. Do you think that I will be able to find parts for whatever rubber items are in this so that I can replace them instead of reusing them? Isn't Tecumseh out of business? I believe that is the manufacturer of this engine but I don't know. How would I best find the carburetor rebuild kit for this engine???
Thanks to everyone for the help on this!!
First you should spray the carbs outside just for looks.
Then you should remove both needle valves , but screw them in and keep track of their initial setting. usually 1.5 turns out . Take some carb spray with a jet tube and jam it in the needle valve holes. Spray until clean about 3-5 seconds. . Then get an air compressor with a needle inflation valve or any small opening. Hold it tight into the opening and blow them clean.
That should be it.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but there are three screws on the carburetor it looks like. How do I know which ones are which?
I like your concept but given the age is that smarter to just remove the carburetor and clean the whole thing in solvent?
The weird thing about this carburetor is that there is no bowl hanging underneath. Is that normal or just this kind of carburetor being used? I've never cleaned or refurbished a carburetor but I know there are lots of videos out there including a few that were posted right here in this thread. Do you think that I will be able to find parts for whatever rubber items are in this so that I can replace them instead of reusing them? Isn't Tecumseh out of business? I believe that is the manufacturer of this engine but I don't know. How would I best find the carburetor rebuild kit for this engine???
Thanks to everyone for the help on this!!
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: chad8
First you should spray the carbs outside just for looks.
Then you should remove both needle valves , but screw them in and keep track of their initial setting. usually 1.5 turns out . Take some carb spray with a jet tube and jam it in the needle valve holes. Spray until clean about 3-5 seconds. . Then get an air compressor with a needle inflation valve or any small opening. Hold it tight into the opening and blow them clean.
That should be it.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but there are three screws on the carburetor it looks like. How do I know which ones are which?
I like your concept but given the age is that smarter to just remove the carburetor and clean the whole thing in solvent?
The weird thing about this carburetor is that there is no bowl hanging underneath. Is that normal or just this kind of carburetor being used? I've never cleaned or refurbished a carburetor but I know there are lots of videos out there including a few that were posted right here in this thread. Do you think that I will be able to find parts for whatever rubber items are in this so that I can replace them instead of reusing them? Isn't Tecumseh out of business? I believe that is the manufacturer of this engine but I don't know. How would I best find the carburetor rebuild kit for this engine???
Thanks to everyone for the help on this!!
The third screw is usually an idle screw. I did not see it , but if it goes in the carb body take it out too. If you want to remove the carb , go ahead but without a carb soak ( I use berrymans at $20 a can) it does little more than I am suggesting and you risk screwing up a gasket. Instead of a float bowl it has a diaphragm fuel pump that operates on vacuum pressure from the motor. Mainly its gravity feed , but used vacuum too. Kind of like a primer bulb. That gasket does crack with age , but that is why I do the cleaner and blow out first. Lots less chance of damaging good parts. Rebuild kits are available for most motors , but I find that I almost never need them. I have at least 10 motors in my garage that almost all had carb issues. The only ones to leave alone or just throw out are blowers and weed whips. These older carbs clog with gas goo and are easily fixed.
Originally Posted By: chad8
First you should spray the carbs outside just for looks.
Then you should remove both needle valves , but screw them in and keep track of their initial setting. usually 1.5 turns out . Take some carb spray with a jet tube and jam it in the needle valve holes. Spray until clean about 3-5 seconds. . Then get an air compressor with a needle inflation valve or any small opening. Hold it tight into the opening and blow them clean.
That should be it.
Pardon my lack of knowledge, but there are three screws on the carburetor it looks like. How do I know which ones are which?
I like your concept but given the age is that smarter to just remove the carburetor and clean the whole thing in solvent?
The weird thing about this carburetor is that there is no bowl hanging underneath. Is that normal or just this kind of carburetor being used? I've never cleaned or refurbished a carburetor but I know there are lots of videos out there including a few that were posted right here in this thread. Do you think that I will be able to find parts for whatever rubber items are in this so that I can replace them instead of reusing them? Isn't Tecumseh out of business? I believe that is the manufacturer of this engine but I don't know. How would I best find the carburetor rebuild kit for this engine???
Thanks to everyone for the help on this!!
The third screw is usually an idle screw. I did not see it , but if it goes in the carb body take it out too. If you want to remove the carb , go ahead but without a carb soak ( I use berrymans at $20 a can) it does little more than I am suggesting and you risk screwing up a gasket. Instead of a float bowl it has a diaphragm fuel pump that operates on vacuum pressure from the motor. Mainly its gravity feed , but used vacuum too. Kind of like a primer bulb. That gasket does crack with age , but that is why I do the cleaner and blow out first. Lots less chance of damaging good parts. Rebuild kits are available for most motors , but I find that I almost never need them. I have at least 10 motors in my garage that almost all had carb issues. The only ones to leave alone or just throw out are blowers and weed whips. These older carbs clog with gas goo and are easily fixed.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get it running on carb cleaner then override the governor so it revs to the moon. It's just gotta suck a loogie through the carb, once that's done you're good to go.
That was my initial thought and hope, there is a throttle lever on the machine, but when set to the fastest position, if I play with the governor, there's no more room for motion of the throttle plate inside of the carburetor. It is as wide open as possible when I have it at the fastest setting, so I don't think that I can start the engine with the speed any faster than it is already.
Yeah but if you start it the governor will slow it down.
I'm assuming it'll run better than it is, I think. This works with stuff that kinda sorta some days runs on gas.
I usually get into this predicament by taking the air filter off and giving it a spritz of starting fluid, cranking it, getting it running, then spraying more in (good way to burn your eyebrows off in a backfire) etc and getting it over-revving to the point where gas starts flowing from all the intake vacuum. You could probably also prop the throttle open with a pen or something but this seems dangerous.
IDK if this even has an idle circuit, it's an edger, it's what it does. Real simple.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get it running on carb cleaner then override the governor so it revs to the moon. It's just gotta suck a loogie through the carb, once that's done you're good to go.
That was my initial thought and hope, there is a throttle lever on the machine, but when set to the fastest position, if I play with the governor, there's no more room for motion of the throttle plate inside of the carburetor. It is as wide open as possible when I have it at the fastest setting, so I don't think that I can start the engine with the speed any faster than it is already.
Yeah but if you start it the governor will slow it down.
I'm assuming it'll run better than it is, I think. This works with stuff that kinda sorta some days runs on gas.
I usually get into this predicament by taking the air filter off and giving it a spritz of starting fluid, cranking it, getting it running, then spraying more in (good way to burn your eyebrows off in a backfire) etc and getting it over-revving to the point where gas starts flowing from all the intake vacuum. You could probably also prop the throttle open with a pen or something but this seems dangerous.
IDK if this even has an idle circuit, it's an edger, it's what it does. Real simple.
It took me years to finally get my 3.5hp craftsman edger running right. I had drunk mechanic #1 fail on it . Finally a good berrymans soak fixed it. Same with a similar older mower.
Both needed the primer bulb pressed to keep running. Yours does not have a primer so I bet that it just can't develop enough vacuum to keep gas flowing with crud lodged in the carb.
90% of the time , a simple spray and blow out works , but 3 motors this year I had to soak.
Both needed the primer bulb pressed to keep running. Yours does not have a primer so I bet that it just can't develop enough vacuum to keep gas flowing with crud lodged in the carb.
90% of the time , a simple spray and blow out works , but 3 motors this year I had to soak.
I see the the first pic with the engine code now and google brings up parts. Wow $100 for the carb, but carb gaskets are cheap and still available and should be the most you'd need. http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=143-774102+Craftsman&pd=carburetor http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=143-774102+Craftsman&dn=EH30135374R-EN
Here Sears has carb parts, carb, repair and service manuals for that model, http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...st=&shdMod=
You can find whatever you made need for the engine with the engine code, 143 774102. But as was mention you might be able to get the carb cleaned through without taking it apart.
Here Sears has carb parts, carb, repair and service manuals for that model, http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...st=&shdMod=
You can find whatever you made need for the engine with the engine code, 143 774102. But as was mention you might be able to get the carb cleaned through without taking it apart.
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