Oil Recommendation for 1974 Mopar 318 V8
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Originally Posted By: Oldmoparguy1
OMG! Fabulous!! Is that a resto?? If not, how was it stored. I would love to know it's history..
It is not a resto. It is all original. I am told by the previous owner that it was purchased by an old lady back in 1974. She became ill and could not drive the car. She gave the car to her daughter who stored it for most of the past 40 years in a climate-controlled garage. The guy who sold it to me had hoped to show the car, but he has health issues that prevent him from working on it. It was very difficult for him to part with it. I think he is happy though that it has gone to someone who will preserve it and show it.
OMG! Fabulous!! Is that a resto?? If not, how was it stored. I would love to know it's history..
It is not a resto. It is all original. I am told by the previous owner that it was purchased by an old lady back in 1974. She became ill and could not drive the car. She gave the car to her daughter who stored it for most of the past 40 years in a climate-controlled garage. The guy who sold it to me had hoped to show the car, but he has health issues that prevent him from working on it. It was very difficult for him to part with it. I think he is happy though that it has gone to someone who will preserve it and show it.
Have you decided on an oil and filter?
Maxlife or similar 10w-40
Low miles but old seals, prime candidate for a high mileage oil.
Low miles but old seals, prime candidate for a high mileage oil.
Since it sits a lot, I'd shy away from synthetic because of the low surface tension and the drain-off phenomena. Of course there will be an oil film, but it will be thin.
Almost any good modern oil would be superior to what was available back then
If it were me (and I have 2 1970's vintage cars), it would be Delo400 or Rotella (non-syn), or Delvac - all 15-40. Change it at least once a year with a filter.
Stick a magnet on the bottom of the pan next to the drain plug, and/or add a magnetic drain plug to catch little pieces of Fe that come off now and then (normally).
Drive it enough to make sure it gets good and warm for some miles and have fun
Almost any good modern oil would be superior to what was available back then
If it were me (and I have 2 1970's vintage cars), it would be Delo400 or Rotella (non-syn), or Delvac - all 15-40. Change it at least once a year with a filter.
Stick a magnet on the bottom of the pan next to the drain plug, and/or add a magnetic drain plug to catch little pieces of Fe that come off now and then (normally).
Drive it enough to make sure it gets good and warm for some miles and have fun
I've been reading up on Preservation Class Survivor Cars. It is VERY clear to me that I should change NOTHING on this car unless required for safety. As it stands, this car is 99% original. Although it has aftermarket wheels, I have the original wheels and wheel covers. The car has the original spare tire, inflated and in good shape (original air?). I have the original wiper blades to which I am adding new refills. And although the previous owner replaced the original plug wires, coil, and cap/rotor, he kept the originals and I have them. The car has the original exhaust system. The shocks may not be original. I will need to get a closer look at them. I can document the chain of custody from the original owner. It is dawning on me that finding this car was like finding a Rembrandt in the attic.
Here's what Hagerty says about cars like this.
Hagerty - Presergation Cars
I'm going to go with the Rotella T6 and see how that does. The car does not leak oil. I'll be running a Royal Purple filter.
Here's what Hagerty says about cars like this.
Hagerty - Presergation Cars
I'm going to go with the Rotella T6 and see how that does. The car does not leak oil. I'll be running a Royal Purple filter.
Good oil, but listen carefully on cold start. Some of these older motors will clatter a bit on T-6. If so, just drop back to std Rotella
Given the car will sit for long periods of time, have you considered Castrol Magnatec (sometimes called Start-Up).
It contains some sort of ester, which is supposed to cling to metal and prevent dry starts.
The intelligent molecule marketing is annoying, but I hear, that it really works. It's a very popular oil in Australia and has been for many years. A well tested product that sits between GTX and Edge.
It contains some sort of ester, which is supposed to cling to metal and prevent dry starts.
The intelligent molecule marketing is annoying, but I hear, that it really works. It's a very popular oil in Australia and has been for many years. A well tested product that sits between GTX and Edge.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Is your car older than synthetic itself?
Maybe 15w-40.
Amzoil was founded in 1972... By mid '70s were a handfull of specialty companies marketing synthetic, didn't really take off till Mobil got into the game...
Me I'd use a high mileage oil with additional zinc... Probably 10W-40 Defy if zinc hasn't been cut back like their 5w-30...
Is your car older than synthetic itself?
Maybe 15w-40.
Amzoil was founded in 1972... By mid '70s were a handfull of specialty companies marketing synthetic, didn't really take off till Mobil got into the game...
Me I'd use a high mileage oil with additional zinc... Probably 10W-40 Defy if zinc hasn't been cut back like their 5w-30...
Originally Posted By: Bookmaker
I recently purchased a 1974 Plymouth Duster 318 V8 Auto. It has only 11,000 original miles on the car and engine. I was thinking I would run Rotella T6 5w40.
Any better suggestions?
BTW: The owner's manual recommends anything from 5w20 to 20w50 depending on average ambient temperatures.
Hello Bookmaker — We have a bunch of car guys and gals over here that are extremely jealous of you right now. Sounds like an awesome ride! We suggest you use either our conventional Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40 or our full synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 for your Duster. Both are formulated with extra anti-wear agents (at least 1200 ppm of zinc) which would be ideal for your older flat tappet engine. The decision on whether to go with synthetic our not will be yours, but if your engine isn’t a leaker, then there should be no reason why going synthetic would not be a good/viable option for your 11,000 mile engine. Hope this info helps! - The Shell Rotella Team
I recently purchased a 1974 Plymouth Duster 318 V8 Auto. It has only 11,000 original miles on the car and engine. I was thinking I would run Rotella T6 5w40.
Any better suggestions?
BTW: The owner's manual recommends anything from 5w20 to 20w50 depending on average ambient temperatures.
Hello Bookmaker — We have a bunch of car guys and gals over here that are extremely jealous of you right now. Sounds like an awesome ride! We suggest you use either our conventional Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40 or our full synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 for your Duster. Both are formulated with extra anti-wear agents (at least 1200 ppm of zinc) which would be ideal for your older flat tappet engine. The decision on whether to go with synthetic our not will be yours, but if your engine isn’t a leaker, then there should be no reason why going synthetic would not be a good/viable option for your 11,000 mile engine. Hope this info helps! - The Shell Rotella Team
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
We suggest you use either our conventional Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40 or our full synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 for your Duster. Both are formulated with extra anti-wear agents (at least 1200 ppm of zinc) which would be ideal for your older flat tappet engine. The Shell Rotella Team
So... are you saying that the 894 ppm of zinc in PYB 10w30 is NOT enough for a flat tappet engine??
Inquiring minds want to know...
We suggest you use either our conventional Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W-40 or our full synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40 for your Duster. Both are formulated with extra anti-wear agents (at least 1200 ppm of zinc) which would be ideal for your older flat tappet engine. The Shell Rotella Team
So... are you saying that the 894 ppm of zinc in PYB 10w30 is NOT enough for a flat tappet engine??
Inquiring minds want to know...
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Is your car older than synthetic itself?
Maybe 15w-40.
Amzoil was founded in 1972... By mid '70s were a handfull of specialty companies marketing synthetic, didn't really take off till Mobil got into the game...
Me I'd use a high mileage oil with additional zinc... Probably 10W-40 Defy if zinc hasn't been cut back like their 5w-30...
+1
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Is your car older than synthetic itself?
Maybe 15w-40.
Amzoil was founded in 1972... By mid '70s were a handfull of specialty companies marketing synthetic, didn't really take off till Mobil got into the game...
Me I'd use a high mileage oil with additional zinc... Probably 10W-40 Defy if zinc hasn't been cut back like their 5w-30...
+1
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
It doesn't need any additional zinc, it's a 318, not a Hi Perf 340. I'd use the cheapest 10W-30 SM-SN dino you can find. Synthetic will leak more than likely.
Can that really be said as an absolute or would it be better to say that it doesn't need additional zinc as much since the valve springs aren't as strong?
It doesn't need any additional zinc, it's a 318, not a Hi Perf 340. I'd use the cheapest 10W-30 SM-SN dino you can find. Synthetic will leak more than likely.
Can that really be said as an absolute or would it be better to say that it doesn't need additional zinc as much since the valve springs aren't as strong?
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We do have to be careful of absolutes, but I'd agree with that statement. Motor oils contemporary that time may have not had phosphorous limits, but they tended not to have as much ZDDP as even modern SN/GF-5 oils. Blackstone tested a pile of old oils, and the results were a tad surprising.
Originally Posted By: bigt61
It doesn't need any additional zinc, it's a 318, not a Hi Perf 340. I'd use the cheapest 10W-30 SM-SN dino you can find. Synthetic will leak more than likely.
It needs the additional zinc for the camshaft and lifters. An SN oil is not gonna cut it.
It doesn't need any additional zinc, it's a 318, not a Hi Perf 340. I'd use the cheapest 10W-30 SM-SN dino you can find. Synthetic will leak more than likely.
It needs the additional zinc for the camshaft and lifters. An SN oil is not gonna cut it.
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