I'll look into it...
fyi...not blown...still NA
got a vacuum pump with tank too
fyi...not blown...still NA
got a vacuum pump with tank too
oil for drag racing
- Thread starter HighStrung
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to:HighStrung why do you ask for advice on oil but not tell us what bearing clearance or rpm range you run.
Penn Grade 1 is hard to beat. For example my friends vega ran 9.50's 2 days a week every week for 5 years and the engine was never once torn down. This is back when it was kendall green oil. Still the same oil today. Amsoils Dominator is another very fine oil along with a few other good oils. Flip a coin and any of the top racing oils will serve you well.
EDIT: I should mention he only changed the oil twice a year. He tried every other weekend but it made the car less consistent and in bracket racing consistency means everything.
EDIT: I should mention he only changed the oil twice a year. He tried every other weekend but it made the car less consistent and in bracket racing consistency means everything.
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Havoline 20-50 Racing blend is a good cheap oil that protects well and hangles contaminates with less breakdown then others. Used it in my alcohol drag engine with "no" bearing wear or scoring after 70-80 1/4 mile runs. Would change oil every other race. If a vac. pump is used then you can get by changing out every 4 races.
Running meth I would run eather VR1 20/50 or brad penn 20/50
The meth gets into the fuel and destoys it very quickly.
The meth gets into the fuel and destoys it very quickly.
Renegade Racing oils are great for Methanol engines. We run a big block dragster and was having problems with the meth washing down our cylinders if we was running fat. Once we swaped to Renegade we have not had a problem sence, and its alot cheeper than any other race oil, and it has high level of zinc, 3000ppm
I would use one of the Redline oils in a wt that provides the correct oil pressure. I would probably stick with the weight the builder recommended.
I personally would not use the Brad Penn oils if they are blended at the refinery site in Bradford, PA. I had a project there and was around the refinery for about a year. I wouldnt trust a blend from there.
Even so, most big name oils blended today are pretty good and should work. You mentioned the roller cam so you are aware of ZDDP. Even though ZDDP may be low in most oils, no modern race engine needs it. There are no contact pressures high enough to activate the zinc in the cam, rocker or timing system and it has no effect on plain bearing life.
I personally would not use the Brad Penn oils if they are blended at the refinery site in Bradford, PA. I had a project there and was around the refinery for about a year. I wouldnt trust a blend from there.
Even so, most big name oils blended today are pretty good and should work. You mentioned the roller cam so you are aware of ZDDP. Even though ZDDP may be low in most oils, no modern race engine needs it. There are no contact pressures high enough to activate the zinc in the cam, rocker or timing system and it has no effect on plain bearing life.
Let me guess, you probably wouldn't use Quaker State either since it comes in a green bottle? Brad Penn racing oils are top-notch quality oils for any kind of high performance use. I've used the stuff for several years and never had a single issue. If it's so bad then why do THOUSANDS of engine builders and racers rely on it?
I choose Red Line for everything when it come to racing, oil, tranmission, rear end. water wet..... I like K&N oil filter when it come to racing.
i worked the mile hi nationals this pass weekend i got to talk to alot of the pro's etc.john force, the great shirley muldowney was a guest...alot of these top fuels,funny cars,stock cars use red line,lat (lubeatech advance engineering oils),torco, kendal most use a 60-70wt.stainless steel oil filters i even saw a fram and a k&n filter..the meet was a awesome three days.. i was with alot of the mopar corp ,castrol guys on a interesting note, brad penn oil just took over the old kendal ref but did not get the old kendal formulation!! found out the crews love lubeatech oils!!and red line..
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Originally Posted By: HighStrung
Hello all,
I am looking for some more opinions on oils for drag racing with a Meth engine and some recommendations on weights.
I have a 15:1 565 BBC in a M&M 4 link. Terminator. Runs 7.5's At 178 on mule and a small plate to get to teens when I have to qualify. I have been using Schaeffer's Micron Moly for the last few years with great success. Change it around 30 to 40 runs. BTW I have a new unopend 5gal pale of RP XPR 10w-40. $200 + the ride. [email protected]
Hello all,
I am looking for some more opinions on oils for drag racing with a Meth engine and some recommendations on weights.
I have a 15:1 565 BBC in a M&M 4 link. Terminator. Runs 7.5's At 178 on mule and a small plate to get to teens when I have to qualify. I have been using Schaeffer's Micron Moly for the last few years with great success. Change it around 30 to 40 runs. BTW I have a new unopend 5gal pale of RP XPR 10w-40. $200 + the ride. [email protected]
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
REdline, or RP XPR 3.1. FYI oil opinions are like religions everybody WORSHIPS one...but some are just CRAZY. A$$holes is when some people's opinion stinks...HHHAAAHHH
RL 2wt (KV100 3.0cSt) and RP XPR 3.1 (KV100 3.1cSt) are extremely light drag oils intended for use where oil temp's don't have a chance to get very high at all; likely not even 40C.
But these are very low VI race oils; in the 130 range.
I've always thought the new crop of synthetic ultra low vis,' high VI hybrid oils which happen to contain a boatload of moly would be great drag oils. The best example of this would be the EOM made Toyota 0W-20. Due to it's 214 VI it will be as light at room temp as RL's 5wt (0W-5) race oil with the added viscosity protection of being a 20wt oil should the oil temp's get unexpectedly high.
In any event, the oil viscosity selected should be based on oil pressure which is a function of oil temperature.
To maximize power, you want to run the lightest oil possible that still provides the optimum minimum OP when the oil is as hot as it ever get under full throttle and maximum rev's.
REdline, or RP XPR 3.1. FYI oil opinions are like religions everybody WORSHIPS one...but some are just CRAZY. A$$holes is when some people's opinion stinks...HHHAAAHHH
RL 2wt (KV100 3.0cSt) and RP XPR 3.1 (KV100 3.1cSt) are extremely light drag oils intended for use where oil temp's don't have a chance to get very high at all; likely not even 40C.
But these are very low VI race oils; in the 130 range.
I've always thought the new crop of synthetic ultra low vis,' high VI hybrid oils which happen to contain a boatload of moly would be great drag oils. The best example of this would be the EOM made Toyota 0W-20. Due to it's 214 VI it will be as light at room temp as RL's 5wt (0W-5) race oil with the added viscosity protection of being a 20wt oil should the oil temp's get unexpectedly high.
In any event, the oil viscosity selected should be based on oil pressure which is a function of oil temperature.
To maximize power, you want to run the lightest oil possible that still provides the optimum minimum OP when the oil is as hot as it ever get under full throttle and maximum rev's.
my choices are:
red line
lubeatech
motul
torco
amalie
brad penn
red line
lubeatech
motul
torco
amalie
brad penn
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I've always thought the new crop of synthetic ultra low vis,' high VI hybrid oils which happen to contain a boatload of moly would be great drag oils. The best example of this would be the EOM made Toyota 0W-20. Due to it's 214 VI it will be as light at room temp as RL's 5wt (0W-5) race oil with the added viscosity protection of being a 20wt oil should the oil temp's get unexpectedly high.
In any event, the oil viscosity selected should be based on oil pressure which is a function of oil temperature.
To maximize power, you want to run the lightest oil possible that still provides the optimum minimum OP when the oil is as hot as it ever get under full throttle and maximum rev's.
Yes, a GREAT theory and advice, but what about fuel dilution, especially when running methanol fuels (unless he changes out the Toy stuff every, or every other run)??
I've always thought the new crop of synthetic ultra low vis,' high VI hybrid oils which happen to contain a boatload of moly would be great drag oils. The best example of this would be the EOM made Toyota 0W-20. Due to it's 214 VI it will be as light at room temp as RL's 5wt (0W-5) race oil with the added viscosity protection of being a 20wt oil should the oil temp's get unexpectedly high.
In any event, the oil viscosity selected should be based on oil pressure which is a function of oil temperature.
To maximize power, you want to run the lightest oil possible that still provides the optimum minimum OP when the oil is as hot as it ever get under full throttle and maximum rev's.
Yes, a GREAT theory and advice, but what about fuel dilution, especially when running methanol fuels (unless he changes out the Toy stuff every, or every other run)??
If fuel dilution is an issue it doesn't matter what oil you're running you must monitor the situation through a number of means including the gradual oil pressure drop as fuel builds up in the oil. Dumping the oil at frequent intervals may be necessary.
Fuel dilution along with oil temperature are the prime factors in choosing the appropriate oil viscosity you're going to run.
Fuel dilution along with oil temperature are the prime factors in choosing the appropriate oil viscosity you're going to run.
how many miles is 20 runs?
Originally Posted By: morris
how many miles is 20 runs?
A little over 5 miles including burn outs.
how many miles is 20 runs?
A little over 5 miles including burn outs.
Don't mean to steal the thread, but how about some opinions on this comparison.
Brad Penn vs Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic part # 679083
both in 10W-30
My machine shop used the Brad Penn when they built and dyno'd the engine this past spring. I'm happy with it and will buy more. 3 changes so far with a Jomar filter. But, I have a couple of cases of the Valvoline that I bought on clearance at 1/2 price a year ago. I hate not to use it.
Is there any issue with using the Valvoline for the next couple of changes and then go back to Brad Penn when the VR1 is gone?
Engine is a methanol injected 598 BBF. Made 1069 hp and 920 ft lbs on the dyno. Turns 7250 max rpm. Using a gas Primer Plus for heat and a good vac pump. The Brad Penn looks new when I have changed it at 25-30 passes so far.
In the past 8 years with 557 and 588 BBF's I used RP XRP 10W30 with great results, but they priced themselves out of the market at least for me.
Thanks
David Cole
Brad Penn vs Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic part # 679083
both in 10W-30
My machine shop used the Brad Penn when they built and dyno'd the engine this past spring. I'm happy with it and will buy more. 3 changes so far with a Jomar filter. But, I have a couple of cases of the Valvoline that I bought on clearance at 1/2 price a year ago. I hate not to use it.
Is there any issue with using the Valvoline for the next couple of changes and then go back to Brad Penn when the VR1 is gone?
Engine is a methanol injected 598 BBF. Made 1069 hp and 920 ft lbs on the dyno. Turns 7250 max rpm. Using a gas Primer Plus for heat and a good vac pump. The Brad Penn looks new when I have changed it at 25-30 passes so far.
In the past 8 years with 557 and 588 BBF's I used RP XRP 10W30 with great results, but they priced themselves out of the market at least for me.
Thanks
David Cole
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Dave_C
Don't mean to steal the thread, but how about some opinions on this comparison.
Brad Penn vs Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic part # 679083
both in 10W-30
My machine shop used the Brad Penn when they built and dyno'd the engine this past spring. I'm happy with it and will buy more. 3 changes so far with a Jomar filter. But, I have a couple of cases of the Valvoline that I bought on clearance at 1/2 price a year ago. I hate not to use it.
Is there any issue with using the Valvoline for the next couple of changes and then go back to Brad Penn when the VR1 is gone?
Engine is a methanol injected 598 BBF. Made 1069 hp and 920 ft lbs on the dyno. Turns 7250 max rpm. Using a gas Primer Plus for heat and a good vac pump. The Brad Penn looks new when I have changed it at 25-30 passes so far.
In the past 8 years with 557 and 588 BBF's I used RP XRP 10W30 with great results, but they priced themselves out of the market at least for me.
Thanks
David Cole
Got pictures of that monster?
Don't mean to steal the thread, but how about some opinions on this comparison.
Brad Penn vs Valvoline VR1 Racing Synthetic part # 679083
both in 10W-30
My machine shop used the Brad Penn when they built and dyno'd the engine this past spring. I'm happy with it and will buy more. 3 changes so far with a Jomar filter. But, I have a couple of cases of the Valvoline that I bought on clearance at 1/2 price a year ago. I hate not to use it.
Is there any issue with using the Valvoline for the next couple of changes and then go back to Brad Penn when the VR1 is gone?
Engine is a methanol injected 598 BBF. Made 1069 hp and 920 ft lbs on the dyno. Turns 7250 max rpm. Using a gas Primer Plus for heat and a good vac pump. The Brad Penn looks new when I have changed it at 25-30 passes so far.
In the past 8 years with 557 and 588 BBF's I used RP XRP 10W30 with great results, but they priced themselves out of the market at least for me.
Thanks
David Cole
Got pictures of that monster?
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