Oil for 2004 Ford Taurus

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I've done some flushes with CLR and water through the cooling system / heater core of neglected vehicles. I flushed the system with water and then added a couple bottles of CLR. I did it with a cold engine and the rad cap off so it couldn't build pressure and then I ran it for a good 20 minutes. Then flushed with water and watched all the junk come out. Then ran the engine with the hose running in the radiator and then drained the system of all the water and put fresh coolant in. Just in case you are still fighting the rust problem. This works and it won't harm the components in the cooling system it only goes after calcium and rust.
 
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
I've done some flushes with CLR and water through the cooling system / heater core of neglected vehicles. I flushed the system with water and then added a couple bottles of CLR. I did it with a cold engine and the rad cap off so it couldn't build pressure and then I ran it for a good 20 minutes. Then flushed with water and watched all the junk come out. Then ran the engine with the hose running in the radiator and then drained the system of all the water and put fresh coolant in. Just in case you are still fighting the rust problem. This works and it won't harm the components in the cooling system it only goes after calcium and rust.


I had heard of using CLR but I just bought a couple of containers of Prestone radiator flush. I knew that it wasn't going to be a quick flush. S-I-L is going to bring the car back to me this weekend to continue the flushing process. I've got 8 or 9 gallons of distilled water ready for the repeated flushes.

Thanks.
 
I have had several Taurus's. The Vulcan and the Duratech 3.0's will love any 5W30. I did 30,000 mile trans fluid changes Mercon V.
The Duratech is shoehorned in there. Ford bought the design from Porsche. Then eventually a V12 version was put in the Aston Martin. Only 200 bhp but pretty reliable.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I have had several Taurus's. The Vulcan and the Duratech 3.0's will love any 5W30. I did 30,000 mile trans fluid changes Mercon V.
The Duratech is shoehorned in there. Ford bought the design from Porsche. Then eventually a V12 version was put in the Aston Martin. Only 200 bhp but pretty reliable.



I plan on doing the oil change and trans service within the next week or so. This will be a good starting point as far as scheduled maintenance is concerned going forward.
I drove it after I did the cooling system work this past weekend and it runs and drives pretty good and I was surprised by the throttle response.
 
Had one a few years older. I think the spline was weaker on the transmission in 2003+. The transmissions for the 3rd gen was worse, you have a 4th gen. That's why rockauto sells a torque converter for around $100. Mine had over 200, around 220k I think before I got rid of it. Mine had the regular green coolant. Replaced the coolant tank once and it was fine afterwards. You only do that if you get a low coolant warning and it's full. When they do go, I'm told they typically just blow the head gasket. As for the spark plugs, you don't have to do the manifold, if you take off the covers for the cabin filter, you can squeeze in there. But the intake manifolds gaskets are also known to leak so if you do it, you should also do the PCV while you've got it off and just use the Motorcraft plugs. DPFE also used to go, don't fall for replacing the EGR when that code comes up. As for the hoses, yeah the rear hose tends to rust out. Also there's a custom hose with the thermostat as one unit so that's also good to replace. Same with the belts and don't forget the water pump. I used 5w20 all the time but threw in 5w30 when it was on sale. Seemed fine on either. The oil pan gasket tends to leak so if it doesn't I'd just use 5w20, I noticed it didn't leak as much with 5w30. You had to drop the exhaust in order to change the oil pan so I never bothered.

I probably put close to 200k on the car as I bought it used. Changed lots of stuff over the years, tie rods, sway bar links, motor mounts, front/rear struts, CV joints, front/rear brakes (just get a rear brake drum kit with all the parts when doing the rears), brake light switch, flex pipe/muffler, alternator, etc. Mine was an SEL so I had the climate control with the cassette deck. If you don't have it, you can grab them on eBay for about $50 and use a cassette adapter to play music from your phone.

Taurusclub.com is a good forum for that car. They made so many of those cars that at least the parts are cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I have had several Taurus's. The Vulcan and the Duratech 3.0's will love any 5W30. I did 30,000 mile trans fluid changes Mercon V.
The Duratech is shoehorned in there. Ford bought the design from Porsche. Then eventually a V12 version was put in the Aston Martin. Only 200 bhp but pretty reliable.


Not sure about the Porsche part, I thought they designed it with Mazda and the Duratec first came out with the Mondeo in Europe. I had the 2.5L in the Contour.
 
Yeah Ford bought the cylinder head design from Porsche IIUC.

30k trans fluid interval is a must. Dorman makes a pan with a plug. The gasket is reusable.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Had one a few years older. I think the spline was weaker on the transmission in 2003+. The transmissions for the 3rd gen was worse, you have a 4th gen. That's why rockauto sells a torque converter for around $100. Mine had over 200, around 220k I think before I got rid of it. Mine had the regular green coolant. Replaced the coolant tank once and it was fine afterwards. You only do that if you get a low coolant warning and it's full. When they do go, I'm told they typically just blow the head gasket. As for the spark plugs, you don't have to do the manifold, if you take off the covers for the cabin filter, you can squeeze in there. But the intake manifolds gaskets are also known to leak so if you do it, you should also do the PCV while you've got it off and just use the Motorcraft plugs. DPFE also used to go, don't fall for replacing the EGR when that code comes up. As for the hoses, yeah the rear hose tends to rust out. Also there's a custom hose with the thermostat as one unit so that's also good to replace. Same with the belts and don't forget the water pump. I used 5w20 all the time but threw in 5w30 when it was on sale. Seemed fine on either. The oil pan gasket tends to leak so if it doesn't I'd just use 5w20, I noticed it didn't leak as much with 5w30. You had to drop the exhaust in order to change the oil pan so I never bothered.

I probably put close to 200k on the car as I bought it used. Changed lots of stuff over the years, tie rods, sway bar links, motor mounts, front/rear struts, CV joints, front/rear brakes (just get a rear brake drum kit with all the parts when doing the rears), brake light switch, flex pipe/muffler, alternator, etc. Mine was an SEL so I had the climate control with the cassette deck. If you don't have it, you can grab them on eBay for about $50 and use a cassette adapter to play music from your phone.

Taurusclub.com is a good forum for that car. They made so many of those cars that at least the parts are cheap.


Thanks for the info. I will definitely be checking out the Taurus club for more info as I do more maintenance.
 
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