o2 sensor anti seize

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I have 2 new denso o2 sensors,( for the avalanche) they come with a small pack of copper anti-seize. Should i use that or the permatex 133k i have in a large bottle?

I can't see anything on the permatex bottle about being o2 sensor safe. I've used what came with sensors in the past. just curious if the permatex 133k is better. Everything i've ever used it on is super easy to get apart.

The old sensors were extremely hard to get out, did GM not use any anti-seize?
 
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I have 2 new denso o2 sensors,( for the avalanche) they come with a small pack of copper anti-seize. Should i use that or the permatex 133k !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Use a nickle based anti seize good to 2400F.



!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Use a nickle based anti seize good to 2400F.



!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If your exhaust is getting that hot, then a stuck O2 sensor is the least of your worries.
whistle.gif
 
Originally Posted By: eyeofthetiger
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Use a nickle based anti seize good to 2400F.



!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If your exhaust is getting that hot, then a stuck O2 sensor is the least of your worries.
whistle.gif





lol, Yes, Pure Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees Fahrenheit, pistons withstand 1250 to 1300F for maybe 30 minutes if your lucky.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
GM must not have used any, as they were a pain to get out. Had to use a torch, wrench, and hammer.


Gm is really good about using "Lock Tight" maybe not so much with Anti Seize!

It is pretty normal for them to be difficult after 15-16 years, torch, wrench, penetrating lube, and usually the hammer is frowned upon...lol, use it for other things.
 
Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder
Originally Posted By: spasm3
GM must not have used any, as they were a pain to get out. Had to use a torch, wrench, and hammer.


Gm is really good about using "Lock Tight" maybe not so much with Anti Seize!

It is pretty normal for them to be difficult after 15-16 years, torch, wrench, penetrating lube, and usually the hammer is frowned upon...lol, use it for other things.


I finally cut the wires, and used the aircat. Thats why i ordered new ones. I had the pipe off for transmission work.
 
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It's not just GM where the O2 sensor almost welds itself into the pipe. My old 98 sienna had the issue as well. It ended up mangling the threads. Trav helped me out big time to fix the threads with a thread file.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
It's not just GM where the O2 sensor almost welds itself into the pipe. My old 98 sienna had the issue as well. It ended up mangling the threads. Trav helped me out big time to fix the threads with a thread file.


I had to run a thread chaser through them , i was worried about one. I have a weld in bung if i had to go that route.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I monitor my 02 temp and seeing 1400F is not unusual.



In the Genesis Turbo? Hopefully not more than 20 or 30 seconds....pre turbo
 
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Originally Posted By: KneeGrinder
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I monitor my 02 temp and seeing 1400F is not unusual.



In the Genesis Turbo? Hopefully not more than 20 or 30 seconds....pre turbo
It's usually in the 1250F-1350F range, as is my Accent. It would be pre cat and after the turbo.
 
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