Vehicle is a 2000 Nissan Sentra, automatic with a 1.8 liter. I used the car Monday to go to work. The car had been sitting a week prior to this. I was almost at work when the car surged, the RPMs dropped and the O/D light flashed once than everything went back to normal. On the way home it did this twice. Yesterday on the way to work the car did this almost the whole trip every 10 minutes or so, except this time the O/D light would flash a bunch of times, than back to normal. While at work I decided to check everything out and discover that I was 1.5 quarts low on fluid so I added fluid, everything else looked ok. On the way home this morning the dang thing is STILL doing it, except its now back to the 1 O/D light flash, and it only did it 3 times. I should also note that my commute one way is 75 miles. Any ideas? I wont drive the car anymore until I get this resolved. Thanks for any help.
O/D light flashing?
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If the OD light is flashing, there should be a transmission trouble code. An OBDII code reader can read it.
Okay, I went to bring the car to AAP this morning to check codes. Started car and it ran for about 3 seconds than died, with a buzzing noise coming from the passengers side dash, the same noise it would make when the RPMs would drop and the O/D light would flash. I restarted the car and it did the same thing, now it wont start. Any ideas on what to check/replace to at least get the car started. I have a sneaking feeling that this is related to the O/D flashing situation. Thanks again.
Check fluid level while you are at it.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
This is wild but go for a charging system checkout, maybe the solenoids aren't getting enough power.
Agreed. Have the battery and charging system tested by a Midtronics Conductance tester.
This is wild but go for a charging system checkout, maybe the solenoids aren't getting enough power.
Agreed. Have the battery and charging system tested by a Midtronics Conductance tester.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: 97f150
Okay, I went to bring the car to AAP this morning to check codes. Started car and it ran for about 3 seconds than died,...
Check for ~14VDC with a voltmeter across the battery with the vehicle idling (if you can get it started?!?). Much under 14 and you will get major driveabilty issues like an erratic shifting trans.
Joel
Okay, I went to bring the car to AAP this morning to check codes. Started car and it ran for about 3 seconds than died,...
Check for ~14VDC with a voltmeter across the battery with the vehicle idling (if you can get it started?!?). Much under 14 and you will get major driveabilty issues like an erratic shifting trans.
Joel
The o/D light can mean a multitude of unrelated components, need the scanner to inform you Otherwise it is just a good guess
Would an alternator/ battery problem prevent it from even starting? The engine turns over strong, but it never does start, just spins and spins. No way to check voltage while running now, or bring it somewhere to get codes read.
I know that TPS will cause it to do what it was doing as far as the O/D light goes, it is in fact one of the transmission trouble codes. I am also finding that there was a recall on these for the crank sensor that will cause a slow start/ no start situation but know nothing about any bearing it could be on a transmission code. I have been thinking it is the TPS since before I parked it a almost a week ago so I may just change it and see where it goes. I guess the only thing I have left to do until I can get it started is throw money at it. No doubt in my mind it is some kind of sensor, and I do beleive that these 2 issues are related and that one sensor just may cure it.
You need to know the logic and failsafes of the car, for example I had a 97 ford contour that would start and idle and even rev with NO MAF SENSOR AT ALL... 1st cheapest bet would be to go in there and unplug stuff to trigger a failsafe.
A TPS failure (without code, because it's a plausible reading) could cause a clear-flood mode or a "I don't want to open the idle speed controller" mode.
MAF reading of... nothing... could shut down fuel.
A TPS failure (without code, because it's a plausible reading) could cause a clear-flood mode or a "I don't want to open the idle speed controller" mode.
MAF reading of... nothing... could shut down fuel.
I just called the stealership and check the status of the recalls done on this car. They were all done except for the Cam sensor (which would cause a no start) and some foam around the ECM. The cam sensor is a $22.00 part so if I cant get it to start to bring it in I may just buy the sensor and take it in. On 2 of the Nissan forums I have been checking out this sensor seems to be a bit problematic, the symptoms are the same I have. I will get that done and go from there.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Originally Posted By: Dave H
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Sure does. An inop cam position sensor or crank position sensor would give you a crank but no start. Any car I've owned with a MAF would start and run w/out it.
Joel
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Sure does. An inop cam position sensor or crank position sensor would give you a crank but no start. Any car I've owned with a MAF would start and run w/out it.
Joel
Originally Posted By: Dave H
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Just picked the car up from the dealership a couple days ago. They replaced the recall sensors and the car still wouldnt run. Long story short, the problem was a relay under the dash that was fried due to a shorted wire. Problem was found by the "stumble upon" that the computer wasnt getting any power while doing the foam around ECM recall. Total cost for labor to tear into the dash, replace the relay and wire $500.00.
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Just picked the car up from the dealership a couple days ago. They replaced the recall sensors and the car still wouldnt run. Long story short, the problem was a relay under the dash that was fried due to a shorted wire. Problem was found by the "stumble upon" that the computer wasnt getting any power while doing the foam around ECM recall. Total cost for labor to tear into the dash, replace the relay and wire $500.00.
Well, in my daughters car this light had other indications other then transmission, need to have a dealer (hate to say that) check it out
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: Dave H
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Sure does. An inop cam position sensor or crank position sensor would give you a crank but no start. Any car I've owned with a MAF would start and run w/out it.
Joel
Depends on the engine design. Certain computerized distributor engines can work with the crank sensor inop, even with a crank sensor failure. The engine computer then fires all injectors simultaneously to keep the engine going, however, fuel efficiency and MPG will drop, and smog will increase.
On certain waste spark and coil per cylinder engines, the cam sensor can fail, but the engine computer will fire the injectors twice per revolution, and the waste spark coils will function perfectly. Coil per cylinder engines can fire two cylinders simultaneously to simulate a waste spark system. However, fuel efficiency and MPG will drop, and smog will increase.
Many Mass Air engines can function with the MAF disconnected. The engine will use the Throttle Position sensor, and if equipped, the MAP sensor. However, in nearly all cases, MPG will drop and smog will increase. Here is the problem with Mass Air: If the sensor doesn't read accurately, BUT the measurement does not fall out of range for the engine computer to clearly determine an error, the engine will run very poorly, possibly even not start at all.
EDIT: and in either case, an electronically controlled transmission will not act the way it should due to innacurate readings. Or quite simply: Garbage in=Garbage out.
Originally Posted By: Dave H
Keep us posted as to what you find. The cam sensor does sound feasible.
Sure does. An inop cam position sensor or crank position sensor would give you a crank but no start. Any car I've owned with a MAF would start and run w/out it.
Joel
Depends on the engine design. Certain computerized distributor engines can work with the crank sensor inop, even with a crank sensor failure. The engine computer then fires all injectors simultaneously to keep the engine going, however, fuel efficiency and MPG will drop, and smog will increase.
On certain waste spark and coil per cylinder engines, the cam sensor can fail, but the engine computer will fire the injectors twice per revolution, and the waste spark coils will function perfectly. Coil per cylinder engines can fire two cylinders simultaneously to simulate a waste spark system. However, fuel efficiency and MPG will drop, and smog will increase.
Many Mass Air engines can function with the MAF disconnected. The engine will use the Throttle Position sensor, and if equipped, the MAP sensor. However, in nearly all cases, MPG will drop and smog will increase. Here is the problem with Mass Air: If the sensor doesn't read accurately, BUT the measurement does not fall out of range for the engine computer to clearly determine an error, the engine will run very poorly, possibly even not start at all.
EDIT: and in either case, an electronically controlled transmission will not act the way it should due to innacurate readings. Or quite simply: Garbage in=Garbage out.
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