Jeep Cherokee DTCs after battery swap.

[Dborch41]

My son has a 2017 Jeep Cherokee that recently had a dead battery after sitting for quite some time. The city needed it moved off the street immediately so he temporarily swapped the battery from his Mazda just to get it running. Later he bought a new battery and the car started and ran fine but the parking brake, traction control and airbag lights came on. I know a low battery can trip some DTCs so I plugged in my scanner (XTOOL Anyscan A30D) and cleared the codes. A few went away but the ones in the attached screenshot came back instantly. I did some researching on the codes but I'm having a hard time trying to discover what the common fault might be that could be related to the battery issue. Unfortunately the scanner apparently can't pull SRS codes from this car so I'm at a loss there.

I know Jeeps have their peculiarities (I believe they call them "things"?) and I've never owned or worked on one before, so I was hoping someone more informed might have some input. Thanks in advance as always.

 

[D60]

Honestly just seems like a nonsensical need for another reboot.

Try to clear again or disconnect the battery again. Any chance your son bobbled it when reconnecting? A quick power/no power/power could make it panic. Or low voltage on the new battery.

 

[Dborch41]

I'll tell him to pull the negative cable for a few minutes and try again. He said he didn't have any problems with either battery but what you're saying makes sense.

 

[FowVay]

My Volkswagen would do this any time the battery was disconnected. It took nothing more than a drive down the street for all of the codes to clear and dash lights to extinguish.

Maybe try driving it around for a few minutes and see if it clears the codes.

 

[The Critic]

Might need to perform a Proxi Alignment using a scan tool or WiTech 2.0.

https://www.snapon.com/EN/US/Diagnostics/News-Center/Technical-Focus-Archive/What_Is_Proxi_Alignment

 

[Dborch41]

My Volkswagen would do this any time the battery was disconnected. It took nothing more than a drive down the street for all of the codes to clear and dash lights to extinguish.

Maybe try driving it around for a few minutes and see if it clears the codes.

Tried that after clearing the codes, no luck.

 

[Rand]

if they sit dead for extended period it might need a proxy alignment.

Sometimes it can happen when changing batteries but that is very rare (unless it was left dead for extended periods)

 

[Thermo1223]

I would also check to see if you need to let the ECU know you are installing a new battery. If it's anything like VW/BMW it will kill the new one quickly if you don't.

 

[D60]

I would also check to see if you need to let the ECU know you are installing a new battery. If it's anything like VW/BMW it will kill the new one quickly if you don't.

Pretty sure these don't have a BMS of any sort.

OP, if you need a proxi alignment check the more affordable (app based) options. There's a good chance AlphaOBD will get you there for free or little $. I don't know if Jscan does this but they have near zero support for the KLs

 

[Dborch41]

if they sit dead for extended period it might need a proxy alignment.

Sometimes it can happen when changing batteries but that is very rare (unless it was left dead for extended periods)

I'm not certain how long it sat with a low/dead battery, but it wasn't more than a couple of months. I just did a bit of research into "proxy alignment), quite the rabbit hole. I know I'm getting up there in years but the integration of computers into automobiles is getting out of hand if all this can come from a simple dead battery.

Thank you reply.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Nissan's do this. There is a simple reset dance dance revolution procedure to recalibrate them, or you can use a scan tool.

I would search the Mopar boards - someone must have posted it if no one here knows. You should not need a trip to the dealer - sounds like it just needs to self calibrate the ABS, etc.

 

[D60]

I'm not certain how long it sat with a low/dead battery, but it wasn't more than a couple of months. I just did a bit of research into "proxy alignment), quite the rabbit hole. I know I'm getting up there in years but the integration of computers into automobiles is getting out of hand if all this can come from a simple dead battery.

Thank you reply.

There's always some troll waiting to call you a Luddite but I completely agree.

Having two dozen modules communicating over a CAN or similar does not improve power or engine performance, mileage, reliability or reduce service costs. If anything it reduces reliability and increases service costs.

You can still have most conveniences like pw, pdl, keyless entry and even remote start without most modules (we know from results because it was done for decades). Manufacturers just do it because they can, and they're not that concerned with serviceability.

But enough yelling at clouds -- the KLs are kinda fun....er well after you hope the PTU doesn't grenade, replace the leaking front struts and radiators that leak like clockwork, and of course deal with the "Pentastar" leaking oil cooler....and hope it doesn't set itself ablaze due to a faulty harness to the rear liftgate. And have fun putting it on a 2-post lift. Other than that they're great.

Seriously, I do like them but I couldn't tell you why.

 

[Dborch41]

Seriously, I do like them but I couldn't tell you why.

I understand completely. It's like spicy chicken wings, sure it's painful but dammit I just can't help myself!

Now excuse me while I chase the kids outta my front yard...

 

[LeakySeals]

Assuming all the codes went away after the monitors were ready?

 

[Dborch41]

UPDATE: Well, I royally screwed that one up.

I got everything I need to do the proxy align, including a Vgate vLinker MC+to go with a fresh copy of the AlfaODB Android app. After the mandatory viewing of numerous YT videos of the process I was able to get the scanner and running with little drama. All seemed well until I did something stupid, I got in a rush for no reason at all and failed to do a proxy backup first. Oh well, that's just a precaution and shouldn't be an issue, right?
Wrong. The alignment seemed to proceed normally enough and when completed I thought I was in the clear. I started the car with my fingers crossed and all the same lights came back up immediately, this time joined by the CEL. Clearing the codes did nothing, and now the acceleration feels slow and I'm getting a transmission warning on top of everything else. I'm afraid in my haste I might have bricked the whole car.

I ran it a second time, nothing changed. I suppose it will have to go to the dealer now to get unscrewed, probably something I should have done in the first place hindsight being 20/20 and all. Anyway I was wondering if there's anything else I can do to resolve my "fix" before biting the bullet and taking on a massive repair bill. Any input, yet again, would be greatly appreciated.