Non-detergent oil recommended for Generator?

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chinese clone eh? that could explain things. the chinese are generally not the best at translations in user manuals.

you should see the owners manual of my late chinese street legal dirtbike. sometimes the paragraphs are downright hilarious. you can get some really funky errors in stuff like this.
 
quote:
why does B&S still make flat head engines?why does B&S still make flat head engines?
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They still do for most pushmowers, but most of their line has gone to ohv engines. Though I beleive they still make them because they are cheaper and long lasting engines. One main reason why the little 3.5 has survived so many years, and is still being made.
 
"the chinese are generally not the best at translations in user manuals."

At least the Chinese have a legitimate language issue ... what's B&S's excuse as to why their owner's manuals are a decade out of date?

--- Bror Jace
 
I know for many years Briggs & Stratton used to specify non-detergent oil. For some unknown reason, they have backed away from that recommendation.

I did read in a Honda manual once, that they specifically recommend 10W-40 to be used in there engines. It was a fairly old manual though, checked out from the public library.

I run Shell 10W-40 in my Briggs & Stratton powered mowers, and have not had any problems with it.
dunno.gif


Question: Do the Honda parts interchange with the Chinese copies?
 
ANy modern IC engine requires at least an SF oil with good detergency.

I would run it a few hours on SuperTech 10W30 and then change to synthetic or HDD oil in 5W40.
 
Is an xw-40 wt really that much better than a syn 30 wt oil for these applications??? Seems that Honda and B&S have specced 30wt for as long as I have looked at manuals, so they ought to have a lot of experience regarding air cooled stuff and 30wt's protection...

Ive been flip-flopping on what to choose for some time, and cant make up my mind.

Thanks,

JMH
 
JHZR2: "Is an XW-40 wt. really that much better than a syn 30 wt. oil for these applications?"

That's probably the #1 question here. How much better is an XW-40 over a 30 weight oil ... or is it even as good?

How much thought did the manufacturers put into their recommendation? What was their idea of typical use? How critical is weight to their splash lubrication?

No definitive answers yet.
frown.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
CreeCguy okay, have warm fire, that good!
I too have a small fleet (3) of old lawn mowers. Last year I was given a 20 plus year old 9 cu. in. Snapper that was smoking badly on the 15w40 Chevron oil they had been using. I think the crankcase vent may have been plugged. I scraped the carbon off the flat head this spring and changed the oil. Our local hardware store was selling out some "Wolfs Head" Hydraulic and Compressor Oil, 30W - non detergent for 79 cents a quart so I stocked up. Should have bought it all. So I put it in the old Tecumseh on the Snapper and it loves it. No smoke! It's self propelled and I mow a half acre.
 
Curley,

Those hydraulic oils do not have the proper amount of AW additives, but then again, it's yours and twenty years old.
 
Usually non-detergent oil is only suitable to run in an oil-lubed air compressor these days. These oils from yesteryear typically have no or very few additives to reduce wear and keep the engine clean, like say in the piston ring grooves! I say run the diesel spec rated oil for wear protection and cleanliness. Change it once a season in the fall before storing unless used commercially (every day). You will have a long lasting, clean running engine. Second choice, run straight SAE 30 or 40 HD (or detergent) oil.
 
Quote:

Quote:

I copied the info straight off of their site.
http://www.cpeauto.com/faq.htm
I'm starting to lean towards Rotella Synthetic.

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This site plainly says that they rcommend 10W30 oil for use in all temperatures. They must have quickly corrected their erroneous recommendation.

Click to expand...


The 10W30 recommendation is found in their web site's FAQ section. I went to their generator page, and there they recommend 20W, 30W, 40W, and 50W, depending on the temperature, and in every case they are recommending detergent oil.
 
Quote:

....I did read in a Honda manual once, that they specifically recommend 10W-40 to be used in there engines. It was a fairly old manual though, checked out from the public library.....


Click to expand...

The manual for my Honda Masters (1989 and the first year of the Masters) specified 10W-30/40 or 20W-50 depending on temperature.
The last year they made the Masters (2 years ago?), it was just 10W-30. Same engine!
Oil technology has improved a lot over the last 20 years!

As a side note, many manuals will specify an API grade of Sx OR BETTER. Many people apparently don't see the better part.
 
I would not run an SM rated oil with low AW and EP additives in one of these air cooled questionable efficiency oil pump no oil filter engines. the upper cylinder/ring oiling is questionable in these engines. a flat tappet cam adds to wear concerns....look for an SF or even better CI rated oil in 5w30 or 5w40 depending on air temps and normal or severe load service...a high TBN level such as a CI rated oil helps with the high levels of ring blowby in an air cooled engine...full synthetic not required, change the oil often
oil is cheap, engines are not
this is a case where additional ZDDP and Moly from a snake additive jug helps with no CAT or emissions to be concerned with
 
"If it last half as long as the Honda I will be thrilled"

You can find the answer to that question right on the engine inself. The EPA rates engine emission control information and lifespan right on the sticker. The engine's condition is the leading factor in how long the engine will remain EPA compliant.

So the following catagories apply: ("A" "extended" 500HR) ("B" "intermediate" 250HR) ("C" "moderate" 125HR) for small engines. Somewhat larger engines extend the hours to 1000, 500, 250 for each rating.

Honda engines typically exceed the extended catagory. Chinese clones typically hover in the moderate catagory.

Conclusion: Chinese clones are EPA rated to last about 25% of a typical Honda.

However, there are a couple of Honda consumer engines that have the lowest rating also (the OHC models on lawn mowers, note: OHV Honda engines all meet the extended catagory)

Chris

Mobil 1 15-50 gives stellar results in Florida generators. Ask me how I know!
 
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