Nissan Service Manager's Recommendation

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Originally Posted By: Garak
Let me get this straight. Nissan is recommending 3750 mile OCIs on synthetic?

Nissan's standard intervals are 3750 for severe-duty and 7500 for normal-duty. To the best of my knowledge, I've never seen anything that differentiates between conventional and synthetic.
 
I'm feeling ornery today, Critic. Perhaps we should have that discussion.
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3750 miles on synthetic is ridiculous. I just checked the manual for the vehicle in question, and 5w30 conventional SN/GF-5 is listed as an acceptable alternative, with a specific mention that it meets warranty requirements. Of course, there is no differentiation between synthetic and conventional.

As for OCI, XOM will warranty M1 0w-20 for 10,000 miles, regardless of the factory recommended OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: Garak
Let me get this straight. Nissan is recommending 3750 mile OCIs on synthetic?

Nissan's standard intervals are 3750 for severe-duty and 7500 for normal-duty. To the best of my knowledge, I've never seen anything that differentiates between conventional and synthetic.


my 99 maxima was 3750 recommended
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm feeling ornery today, Critic. Perhaps we should have that discussion.
wink.gif


3750 miles on synthetic is ridiculous. I just checked the manual for the vehicle in question, and 5w30 conventional SN/GF-5 is listed as an acceptable alternative, with a specific mention that it meets warranty requirements. Of course, there is no differentiation between synthetic and conventional.

As for OCI, XOM will warranty M1 0w-20 for 10,000 miles, regardless of the factory recommended OCI.

Garak- although synthetic oil may have superior cold and high temperature properties, as well as a better fortified additive system, it is not immune to the contamination that is generated from short-trip driving or normal engine operation. The enhanced additive system may better protect the engine against deposits arising from severe conditions, but the oil contamination is still a concern.

Poor oil quality due to contamination can result in a number of issues, such as low idle (straight from my Prius service manual), chain wear, possible increased oil consumption (as evident by many users complaining of increased oil consumption towards latter part of an interval), etc. Lastly, an oil change should be a small part of a preventive maintenance program, NOT the sole focus of a preventive maintenance program - so the shorter intervals are necessary so that the vehicle can be inspected at pre-determined intervals for any issues. Therefore, without carefully taken oil analysis samples that are interpreted by trained professionals, following the OEM recommended intervals (despite upgraded oils) is the safest approach for most drivers.
 
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That's true, Critic. As I've told tig1 before, I'm a skeptic at heart and tend to use a lot of conventional at manufacturers' recommended intervals (except the taxis, which were significantly extended on conventional, but which were good candidates for a variety of reasons). Nonetheless, we see very few UOAs here where a synthetic isn't acceptable for an extended OCI (assuming the engine was speced for conventional in the first place).

Yes, I'd be very shaky taking M1 to 10,000 miles, but that's an emotional response, and a skeptical response. I've seen that it can be done through UOAs. Tig1 has done it for a long time with nary an engine explosion.

Let's take one thing - M1's warranty - and see what we can draw from that. One possibility is that XOM is telling the truth. Their oil can go that long in almost every application, or at least enough applications that they're willing to guarantee it.

Few, if any, other oil companies offer such a warranty. So, that brings up other possibilities. XOM says I could use EP in my car for 15,000 miles. SOPUS says I could use PU for only 3,750 miles. So, either SOPUS is being very conservative or XOM is making a far superior product to everyone else on the planet. I'd believe the former, first.

Also note that those applications where we've seen significantly extended OCIs across the board tend to require synthetics. The Germans moved to synthetics for a couple reasons, and a significant reason was that their OCIs were overly optimistic for the specified conventional. Instead of reducing OCIs, they actually lengthened them and introduced their own specifications. Look at what Doug Hillary accomplishes in his fleet with synthetics.

And we can never ignore cost. If I'm spending double the money on a product, I want my ROI to make it worth it. And, regardless of any sales, synthetic up here is double the price of conventional. I know people can cherry pick PP or Synpower rolled back to $19.99 at WM or NAPA and compare that to the gas station's $32 jug of PYB, but that's nonsense. Certainly, there are extreme cold and extreme heat benefits to synthetics and a better additive package. But let's be realistic. I live in a place that can have some of the world's coldest and hottest temperatures. I haven't had issues using 5w30 conventional in -40 C. And I haven't had engines heat themselves to the seizure point in +40 C on conventional, either.

But, I do understand your point, and I'm jittery, despite all the evidence and my own experiences. I'm not afraid to admit that I'm very, very likely wrong in my skepticism, and if I were so inclined, I could likely prove it to myself by trying it and backing it up with my own UOAs. But, I know you're very meticulous with your maintenance, as am I.

Then again, so is tig1, but he still does 10,000 mile OCIs on M1.
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My dad would have been proud of him. If I did 6,000 mile OCIs on synthetic, much less 3,750 mile OCIs on it, he'd have told me I was nuts.
 
Good points. Nissan's recommendation of 0w20 is likely fuel economy driven; whether or not the owner may see significant differences remains to be seen. However, we should not discount the improved cold/high temp performance and the possibility of reduced engine deposits - benefits that may not be "tangible" to the owner, but do/may exist and should not be dismissed. I think this is a matter of whether or not the owner is willing to spend a few more dollars to have the peace-of-mind, knowing that they have the best possible OEM-recommended lubricant in their engine.

Also, note the following language from XOM's FAQ:

Quote:

What the Warranty Does Not Cover
This Limited Warranty excludes:

Mobil™ lubricants used in mechanically deficient equipment as a result of abnormal operation; negligence; abuse; damage from casualty, shipment or accident; or, equipment modification done without written authorization from the original equipment manufacturer (“OEM”).

Situations where the OEM required lubricant standards do not match those stated by ExxonMobil without written approval from ExxonMobil.

Mobil lubricants that have been used in conjunction with any other product or additive that has not been authorized for use by ExxonMobil.

Failure of equipment due to a pre-existing condition that is unrelated to the use of Mobil lubricants.

Repair or replacement of equipment due to normal wear.

What the Period of Coverage Is:

The Mobil 1 limited warranty is valid for 10,000 miles or your vehicle’s OEM recommended oil change interval, whichever is longer.

Additional requirements for all Mobil 1 products include:
Oils must be put in service not later than five (5) years from the date of purchase; and an oil change must be completed every twelve (12) months.


Just be advised that if there is accelerated wear and/or deposits arising from the extended 10k interval (if the OEM for the vehicle specified 5k, for instance), and the failure occurs at a high mileage (such as 200k), XOM is likely able to back out of the claim citing normal wear to be the cause of failure. This is not to say that using Mobil 1 at intervals of 10k will cause excessive wear, but be advised that it will be difficult to hold XOM responsible for any engine failures at a high mileage after repeated extended intervals on Mobil 1.
 
Yep, it looks like Nissan is going to the fuel economy bandwagon. I see that the 3.5 and 3.7 retain the 5w30 requirement. As for the performance and engine cleanliness aspects of 0w-20, those can be had with other synthetic grades, too. However, the use of a 0w-20 is almost a guarantee that a synthetic will be used. A 5w30 oil change in a dealership is likely to get a bulk 5w30. Up here, the Nissan dealers use Mobil products, including M1 if the customer so desires.

As for the warranty issue, that is true. Normal wear and tear does leave them a pretty big "out" for XOM if they want it, along with the pre-existing condition business. But it is something, and it does differentiate them from the competition, who try to put total mileage limits on their warranties or require exclusive use of their product.

Basically, if a properly specified lube is used as directed by both the manufacturer's and the oil company's recommendations, if that lube causes a failure (ignoring the difficulty and cost involved in proving that), it is the oil company's responsibility, regardless of the mileage of the vehicle and what products were used before, unless those products were the actual culprit. I think M1's warranty acknowledges that, and even more, given the mileage latitude they give for products like M1 and M1 EP.
 
My thoughts are there was an upgrade in this year model's engine and the Service Mgr. is not apprised of this fact and is living on old knowledge.
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
My thoughts are there was an upgrade in this year model's engine and the Service Mgr. is not apprised of this fact and is living on old knowledge.

Or maybe he knows what will break this engine in best so it doesn't turn into an oil using pig like some of the VQ engines.

I broke my VQ in with dino for the first 10K then ran 0w40 in it, zero consumption. My brother ran FF and put 5w30 synthetic in his and his uses 2 qts of oil between OCI.

Both cars are almost identical except for colour with similar mileage. His is now on 0w40 but it hasn't stopped the consumption just slowed it down by half.
I got plenty of bore wear right from the get go, mine is noticeably stronger and smoother.

If you think there were some engine upgrades just get the part# for the crank and oil pump for an 2012 and 2013 engine.
If they are the same then they just downgraded the oil for fuel economy.

Just because the company changes something don't assume its always for the better or they have your best interest at heart.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm feeling ornery today, Critic. Perhaps we should have that discussion.
wink.gif


3750 miles on synthetic is ridiculous. I just checked the manual for the vehicle in question, and 5w30 conventional SN/GF-5 is listed as an acceptable alternative, with a specific mention that it meets warranty requirements. Of course, there is no differentiation between synthetic and conventional.

As for OCI, XOM will warranty M1 0w-20 for 10,000 miles, regardless of the factory recommended OCI.


As someone who drives a car with a factory spec'd OCI of 3000 miles on SYNTHETIC oil I beg to differ as there are a myriad of variables from platform to platform.

Yep, 3k miles sounds ridiculous, but it may be needed by that particular application.

As to the Service Mgr I'd ignore him and go by the manual's recommendation here. I've had one argue with me as well. He'll also want to sell you a Fuel System Service as well!
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: walk23
My thoughts are there was an upgrade in this year model's engine and the Service Mgr. is not apprised of this fact and is living on old knowledge.

Or maybe he knows what will break this engine in best so it doesn't turn into an oil using pig like some of the VQ engines.

I broke my VQ in with dino for the first 10K then ran 0w40 in it, zero consumption. My brother ran FF and put 5w30 synthetic in his and his uses 2 qts of oil between OCI.

Both cars are almost identical except for colour with similar mileage. His is now on 0w40 but it hasn't stopped the consumption just slowed it down by half.
I got plenty of bore wear right from the get go, mine is noticeably stronger and smoother.

If you think there were some engine upgrades just get the part# for the crank and oil pump for an 2012 and 2013 engine.
If they are the same then they just downgraded the oil for fuel economy.

Just because the company changes something don't assume its always for the better or they have your best interest at heart.



- Absolutely! I agree. I know there are many here who say "hogwash!" to the whole "Dino-break-in" thing. A few years back, my family purchased two brand new Ford vehicles. (Taurus) Long story short... one of these cars switched to Synthetic at 1,500 miles on the odometer. (Not going to mention) and at approximately 24k, guess what? - Was burning through a quart every 800 miles. (The other car on Dino had normal oil consumption and hardly used any oil between changes)

The dealer pulled the engine apart (Warranty) and the mechanic commented on how the rings were not "seated"... very little if any wear. He even said it wasn't a good idea to break-in engines on synthetic.

So? Point is... People can do what they want. Believe what they want. If I purchase a new vehicle, I'll leave in the FF for as long as the manual recommends. Then maybe after 20K I'll switch.
 
Originally Posted By: JGmazda


- Absolutely! I agree. I know there are many here who say "hogwash!" to the whole "Dino-break-in" thing. A few years back, my family purchased two brand new Ford vehicles. (Taurus) Long story short... one of these cars switched to Synthetic at 1,500 miles on the odometer. (Not going to mention) and at approximately 24k, guess what? - Was burning through a quart every 800 miles. (The other car on Dino had normal oil consumption and hardly used any oil between changes)

The dealer pulled the engine apart (Warranty) and the mechanic commented on how the rings were not "seated"... very little if any wear. He even said it wasn't a good idea to break-in engines on synthetic.

So? Point is... People can do what they want. Believe what they want. If I purchase a new vehicle, I'll leave in the FF for as long as the manual recommends. Then maybe after 20K I'll switch.



Since the OP's car likely came filled with 0w20 synthetic, would you advise that he drain oil the 0w20 and replace it with a 5w20 conventional?

FWIW, my 2011 Prius has 59k, and came from the factory with 0w20. Oil consumption is less than 1/2 qt with 10k intervals (per FSM).
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: JGmazda


- Absolutely! I agree. I know there are many here who say "hogwash!" to the whole "Dino-break-in" thing. A few years back, my family purchased two brand new Ford vehicles. (Taurus) Long story short... one of these cars switched to Synthetic at 1,500 miles on the odometer. (Not going to mention) and at approximately 24k, guess what? - Was burning through a quart every 800 miles. (The other car on Dino had normal oil consumption and hardly used any oil between changes)

The dealer pulled the engine apart (Warranty) and the mechanic commented on how the rings were not "seated"... very little if any wear. He even said it wasn't a good idea to break-in engines on synthetic.

So? Point is... People can do what they want. Believe what they want. If I purchase a new vehicle, I'll leave in the FF for as long as the manual recommends. Then maybe after 20K I'll switch.



Since the OP's car likely came filled with 0w20 synthetic, would you advise that he drain oil the 0w20 and replace it with a 5w20 conventional?

FWIW, my 2011 Prius has 59k, and came from the factory with 0w20. Oil consumption is less than 1/2 qt with 10k intervals (per FSM).


That's a very good question. I think I would run a 3,000 mile OCI and then switch to a conventional for awhile. But that's just me. It makes sense to me. I've also seen numerous cases as I've worked in the automobile industry for years.

What's interesting to me is that my uncle's car was babied by him. He drove mostly highway miles and was fastidious about keeping up with the synthetic OCI's. My aunts car? She drove it stop and go and was know to trounce on the gas pedal.

I'm a firm believer in using Dino. Once the engine has "mated" and if you want to switch to Synth down the road, then so be it.

Call me crazy.... but that's what I would do.
 
While having a warranty issue repaired I spoke with a technician who looked up the factory fill from Nissan and am told it is a 0W20 synthetic blend. He further advised that if I were to use synthetics to do it at my first OCI and that 5K would be a good starting point. The oil on the dipstick is very clean looking and a light clear caramel color.

Of note, my mileage continues to climb from my first, 31 mpg to 34.4 yesterday.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
As someone who drives a car with a factory spec'd OCI of 3000 miles on SYNTHETIC oil I beg to differ as there are a myriad of variables from platform to platform.

Remember, though, you're vehicle is special and has a specification in that regard. It doesn't offer 5w30 SN/GF-5 as an alternative for the same OCI.

I do understand the concern of the automaker, though. KISS. They want to avoid people taking the conventional out to synthetic-type OCIs, and they don't have a specification beyond SN/GF-5. If it were me, I'd just run 5w30 conventional over the severe service interval and be done with it.

Then again, I'm getting biased in my old age. I can get free synthetic, yet I'm struggling to avoid the PYB special at WM this week.
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Originally Posted By: Ram01
The Nissan 2.5L is hard on oil from what i heard. so stay with a good 5w30



Where did you here this ? I believe the service manager was unaware of the spec change per Nissan. Again I spoke with a technician who went to the Nissan service manual and found that the oil from the factory was a synthetic blend engineered for the new engine. I also think he was no more than an order taker who gave his two cents on what he had heard and not from what he knew.
 
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I dunno...I bought a 2001 Dakota with the 4.7L brand new, changed the oil to Mobil 1 after 1.5k miles and it has been stellar engine, synthetic (mostly Mobil 1) the whole life. Only started to use a bit of oil at 150k miles, and even then it is only 1/2 qt per 5k miles. I was very exacting with the break-in though, including full throttle blasts and decelerations in low gear to seat the rings.

I also have a VQ motor car and it hasn't had issue yet, although I bought it with 13.5k miles on so I don't know how the original owner broke it in. The first oil change I did (16k-ish) used about 1/2 qt. I did a little post break-in anyway, and at 28k miles very minimal oil consumption, maybe 1/8 qt per 4k miles.

I lean towards a proper break-in being more important than whether you switch to synth too early. And by proper break-in I don't mean baby it. I only baby it the first 60-100 miles, then it gets full throttle blasts but I stay from redline, and low gear decelerations, to about 500 miles. Then drive normally with occasional full throttle blasts getting closer to redline. At 1k miles I'm pretty done. Has worked well so far. Breaking in a new 3.6L Pentastar like this right now.
 
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