New motor... Need break-in recommendations

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2005 F150, 5.4 3v, 52,000 miles.

Long story short, my Ford Extended Service Plan just paid $8100 to have a Ford reman longblock put in my truck. Supposedly there was some manufacturing debris found in the chain tensioners which caused head failure...

You can read all about it HERE (and the link within the link).

Anyway, I'm looking for suggestions as far as how to run the motor during the next few hundred miles (hard, easy, etc), as well as when to do the 1st oil change. I'll be sticking with MC 5w20 and FoMoCo filter.
 
I agree completely with X's link.

I've built hundreds of engines- mostly industrial diesel engines- and within repair shops in my industry, the accepted 'best practice' once and engine is rebuilt is to RUN THE [censored] OUT OF IT. It'll help seat the rings, and reveal any problems (leaks, etc.) in short order. If something breaks... then it never would've held anyway.

In 13 years and hundreds of engine builds, I've never had a single major engine failure using this method. Though I have revealed the occasional leak or driveability problem due to bad parts/improper assembly. Without a hard break-in, the problems might not have shown up immediately... and wouldn't have been addressed in a timely fashion- resulting in down-time, tow-bills, and [censored]-off customers.

For the purposes of those breaking in their own engines, you'd do well to find any problems early-on. Despite what some on this forum believe, the Holy Owner's Manual is not the inerrant Word of Gawd- and like its religious counterpart, some instructions therein were likely written with ulterior motives.

IMO, owner's manuals reccommend an "easy" break-in for one reason only: To minimize warranty claims. I suspect that accountants are AT LEAST as influential as engineers when it comes to writing the manual.
 
I'd continue to stick with Motorcraft oil filters - they are good and properly valved for anti drainback purposes. Likewise, your choice of oil is tough to beat.
A factory rebuilt engine can be better than new, because they check everything closely.
It won't make much difference if you run it easy or hard, with a factory engine [ home rebuilds are another story]. Great results are obtained both ways nowadays. I would at times give it full throttle, but not absolute maximum RPMs, during the break in .

You'll get most of your break in in 500 miles or so, but it will continue to wear in at a slower rate for thousands more. Then it should remain fairly stable for it's long lifetime.
 
Wow, nice story!
crazy2.gif



Anyhow, most home builds fail do to:

1) Improper measuring of the clearances (your ten-dollar caliper is not sufficent)

2) NO measure of clearances ("This is all new stuff, it should work.")

3) Improper selection of oil, based on clearances.

4) Improper torque specs.
 
that was an incomplete story they wrote on the repair order. you should see some of the novels i get to write for our diesel tech, especially on the sicko diesels.

i think your year might also apply to the warranty extension on the fuel injectors. we have replaced numerous shortblocks due to hydrolock caused my leaking injectors.
 
Originally Posted By: onion



IMO, owner's manuals reccommend an "easy" break-in for one reason only: To minimize warranty claims. I suspect that accountants are AT LEAST as influential as engineers when it comes to writing the manual.


I agree! You should see how many guys on the Corvetteforum are following their owner's manual to the letter and they absolutely refuse to go full throttle for the first 500 miles. All they are doing is delaying their enjoyment of the car! With all of my new cars I have run them hard right off the bat, and never had a problem.

Those same people don't seem to follow the owner's manual when it comes to their oil changes though! They still refuse to follow the oil life monitor, and a lot of them are still stuck in the 3000 mile oil change mentality.
 
Originally Posted By: onion
I agree completely with X's link.

I've built hundreds of engines- mostly industrial diesel engines- and within repair shops in my industry, the accepted 'best practice' once and engine is rebuilt is to RUN THE [censored] OUT OF IT. It'll help seat the rings, and reveal any problems (leaks, etc.) in short order. If something breaks... then it never would've held anyway.

In 13 years and hundreds of engine builds, I've never had a single major engine failure using this method. Though I have revealed the occasional leak or driveability problem due to bad parts/improper assembly. Without a hard break-in, the problems might not have shown up immediately... and wouldn't have been addressed in a timely fashion- resulting in down-time, tow-bills, and [censored]-off customers.

For the purposes of those breaking in their own engines, you'd do well to find any problems early-on. Despite what some on this forum believe, the Holy Owner's Manual is not the inerrant Word of Gawd- and like its religious counterpart, some instructions therein were likely written with ulterior motives.



You forgot to mention that the big diesels are put to work pulling 80K immediatly. Nobody can afford to baby a semi around to break it in. It needs to be put back to work to earn money.

They often make 1-million+ miles.
 
I agree that a some heavy throttle runs is desirable in the first 500 miles. However; I also think that the duration of the run up should be faily short, like 10 seconds or so followed by a cool down cruse. That is if you still want to be driving the same engine at 150,000 miles
 
That is why you coast down from heavy throttle in gear letting the motor suck the walls clean and then resume a nice easy cruise for a bit. Rinse, repeat.

The Rabbit got a good break-in, I made sure of it.
 
I've got an 02 F-150 5.4 2v and ran it for a thousand miles to break it in from new. It got babied some then the oil was changed to full synthetic. I started driving it like it was going to be used. It may burn a quart in 8000 miles. Just stay with the 5W20.
 
Thanks for the suggestions... I think I'll probably run it for 1000-2000 miles, and then do the 1st OCI. I'll probably stick with MC 5w20 and filter.
 
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