lets get real fellas yes marketing does work. 200,000 mile Ecoboost
New Ford F-150 3.5 ecoboost.
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I tell them to keep the free oil changes. Too much hassle for me to go back to the dealer for an oil change. Then there's the risk of one of the many horror stories we often read here about an oil change gone bad at the dealer. To me it isn't worth it. Mobi1 1 5W30 EP is a good choice.
+1. If it were my engine I go with M1 5-30 right away.
I tell them to keep the free oil changes. Too much hassle for me to go back to the dealer for an oil change. Then there's the risk of one of the many horror stories we often read here about an oil change gone bad at the dealer. To me it isn't worth it. Mobi1 1 5W30 EP is a good choice.
+1. If it were my engine I go with M1 5-30 right away.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I tell them to keep the free oil changes. Too much hassle for me to go back to the dealer for an oil change. Then there's the risk of one of the many horror stories we often read here about an oil change gone bad at the dealer. To me it isn't worth it. Mobi1 1 5W30 EP is a good choice.
+1. If it were my engine I go with M1 5-30 right away.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I tell them to keep the free oil changes. Too much hassle for me to go back to the dealer for an oil change. Then there's the risk of one of the many horror stories we often read here about an oil change gone bad at the dealer. To me it isn't worth it. Mobi1 1 5W30 EP is a good choice.
+1. If it were my engine I go with M1 5-30 right away.
Pay the difference for full synthetic. My father in law did. It wasn't much more money.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
True, it makes no sense to not use those FREE oil changes.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
True, it makes no sense to not use those FREE oil changes.
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Yea-but your motor wouldn't have blown up if the incorrect oil change was in it for one OCI. In reality-they could have used the correct oil and the wrong key was hit during computer entry for your billing.
Much ado about nothing.
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Yea-but your motor wouldn't have blown up if the incorrect oil change was in it for one OCI. In reality-they could have used the correct oil and the wrong key was hit during computer entry for your billing.
Much ado about nothing.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CT8
FYI the over the road trucks get a million miles + running conventional oil. If there was a real advantage running syn oil wouldn't you think they would run syn oil in their $50,000.00 engines?
But they also use HDEO oils that made for there engines.
FYI the over the road trucks get a million miles + running conventional oil. If there was a real advantage running syn oil wouldn't you think they would run syn oil in their $50,000.00 engines?
But they also use HDEO oils that made for there engines.
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Yea-but your motor wouldn't have blown up if the incorrect oil change was in it for one OCI. In reality-they could have used the correct oil and the wrong key was hit during computer entry for your billing.
Much ado about nothing.
But you can't say that with absolute certainty. The only certainty is uncertainty about what's in the engine.
Doing it yourself ensures the right thing is in the engine.
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
Please explain how his motor will blow up letting the dealer perform the oil change with the correct oil. I would really like to know.
Twice my dealer gave me paperwork showing they used 0W20 when Subaru says to use 5W30 in my car. When I complained, I got a blank stare followed by assurances that they "must have" used the right oil and it was just a computer issue.
My engine didn't blow up, but my head nearly did! Guess a lot depends upon the dealer involved. I feel a lot better doing my own oil now, not that I do things in a perfect manner by a long shot...you should have seen me trying to pour my just drained oil back into liter bottles yesterday! Never had a problem before and I was all thumbs for some reason...
Yea-but your motor wouldn't have blown up if the incorrect oil change was in it for one OCI. In reality-they could have used the correct oil and the wrong key was hit during computer entry for your billing.
Much ado about nothing.
But you can't say that with absolute certainty. The only certainty is uncertainty about what's in the engine.
Doing it yourself ensures the right thing is in the engine.
Originally Posted By: leje0306
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
This engine has been out since December. Did I miss UOA's that show this engine has fuel dilution issues?
I assumed it was the first gen EB. I haven't seen any UOAs on the new second gen motor yet. Not sure the new architecture will change the dilution issue. I was under the impression the addition of port injection will help resolve the carbon build-up issues. We shall see if it reduces the fuel blow-by.
For everyone recommending thicker oil, let's not forget very few EB UOAs posted here are showing exessive wear metals even with consistent dilution. Maybe that's why Ford specs a 30 weight to begin with.
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
This engine has been out since December. Did I miss UOA's that show this engine has fuel dilution issues?
I assumed it was the first gen EB. I haven't seen any UOAs on the new second gen motor yet. Not sure the new architecture will change the dilution issue. I was under the impression the addition of port injection will help resolve the carbon build-up issues. We shall see if it reduces the fuel blow-by.
For everyone recommending thicker oil, let's not forget very few EB UOAs posted here are showing exessive wear metals even with consistent dilution. Maybe that's why Ford specs a 30 weight to begin with.
Originally Posted By: Onug
Originally Posted By: leje0306
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
This engine has been out since December. Did I miss UOA's that show this engine has fuel dilution issues?
I assumed it was the first gen EB. I haven't seen any UOAs on the new second gen motor yet. Not sure the new architecture will change the dilution issue. I was under the impression the addition of port injection will help resolve the carbon build-up issues. We shall see if it reduces the fuel blow-by.
For everyone recommending thicker oil, let's not forget very few EB UOAs posted here are showing exessive wear metals even with consistent dilution. Maybe that's why Ford specs a 30 weight to begin with.
You make a good point. Perhaps Ford designed the engines to run a 20 weight oil, then realized fuel dilution was going to happen. Rather than allocating more engineering resources to the "problem," they simply increased the recommendation to a 30 weight and recommended an interval that would keep the oil viscosity at an acceptable range for the life they targeted for the vehicles.
Originally Posted By: leje0306
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Forget free oil changes. How much you will save? Engines are expensive, oil is cheap.
That engine has fuel dilution issue. Personally, I would use M1 0W40 FS or Castrol 0W40.
This engine has been out since December. Did I miss UOA's that show this engine has fuel dilution issues?
I assumed it was the first gen EB. I haven't seen any UOAs on the new second gen motor yet. Not sure the new architecture will change the dilution issue. I was under the impression the addition of port injection will help resolve the carbon build-up issues. We shall see if it reduces the fuel blow-by.
For everyone recommending thicker oil, let's not forget very few EB UOAs posted here are showing exessive wear metals even with consistent dilution. Maybe that's why Ford specs a 30 weight to begin with.
You make a good point. Perhaps Ford designed the engines to run a 20 weight oil, then realized fuel dilution was going to happen. Rather than allocating more engineering resources to the "problem," they simply increased the recommendation to a 30 weight and recommended an interval that would keep the oil viscosity at an acceptable range for the life they targeted for the vehicles.
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