New 2017 silverado 5.3 v8 oil
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Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Possible hard starting below -30F, other than that it could be a step in the right direction, global warming 'n all.
Was just curious why there'd been no mention on this thread of 5w20, jumping to 5/10w30 instead. If really putting the engine through its paces then a ?w30 might be beneficial, but if just seeking some more peace of mind I'm curious why a qualified 5w20 wouldn't be a safer yet effective option. Lots of Ford/Chrysler products have lived long lives on it.
Possible hard starting below -30F, other than that it could be a step in the right direction, global warming 'n all.
Was just curious why there'd been no mention on this thread of 5w20, jumping to 5/10w30 instead. If really putting the engine through its paces then a ?w30 might be beneficial, but if just seeking some more peace of mind I'm curious why a qualified 5w20 wouldn't be a safer yet effective option. Lots of Ford/Chrysler products have lived long lives on it.
The topic of at least 3 threads is the use of 15W50 in Corvettes & Camaros on "track" days.
Would a 5.3L blow up on 15W50?
Would a 5.3L blow up on 15W50?
Use the 0w20 while you're under warranty
And you can usually get a good synthetic dexos 0w20 on sale
And you can usually get a good synthetic dexos 0w20 on sale
Originally Posted By: Alex_V
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Possible hard starting below -30F, other than that it could be a step in the right direction, global warming 'n all.
Was just curious why there'd been no mention on this thread of 5w20, jumping to 5/10w30 instead. If really putting the engine through its paces then a ?w30 might be beneficial, but if just seeking some more peace of mind I'm curious why a qualified 5w20 wouldn't be a safer yet effective option. Lots of Ford/Chrysler products have lived long lives on it.
Alex, as an oil viscosity grade, 5w20 is no safer than 0w20 at any temperature. As noted above, it is inferior at cold temps.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Possible hard starting below -30F, other than that it could be a step in the right direction, global warming 'n all.
Was just curious why there'd been no mention on this thread of 5w20, jumping to 5/10w30 instead. If really putting the engine through its paces then a ?w30 might be beneficial, but if just seeking some more peace of mind I'm curious why a qualified 5w20 wouldn't be a safer yet effective option. Lots of Ford/Chrysler products have lived long lives on it.
Alex, as an oil viscosity grade, 5w20 is no safer than 0w20 at any temperature. As noted above, it is inferior at cold temps.
Funny nobody ever posts "use 0W20 after the warranty period", just during warranty.
I would rather experiment while the engine is under warranty, that way if it goes south, the manufacture can fix it instead of me.
This is only the 4th year for the 2014 & newer 0w20 5.3L, so who knows if they will become oil burners in the future.
The average age of these engines and the 0W20 6.2L is 2 years and around 35k miles.
I looked at a 2015 SLT 6.2L max trailer yesterday with 32K miles (52K km) on it.
Summit white,153" wb, but too many bells 'n whistles I'd rather not pay for, and a few options I would rather have instead.
Asking price was $34k USD equivalent in Canadian Tire money.
I would rather experiment while the engine is under warranty, that way if it goes south, the manufacture can fix it instead of me.
This is only the 4th year for the 2014 & newer 0w20 5.3L, so who knows if they will become oil burners in the future.
The average age of these engines and the 0W20 6.2L is 2 years and around 35k miles.
I looked at a 2015 SLT 6.2L max trailer yesterday with 32K miles (52K km) on it.
Summit white,153" wb, but too many bells 'n whistles I'd rather not pay for, and a few options I would rather have instead.
Asking price was $34k USD equivalent in Canadian Tire money.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
Funny nobody ever posts "use 0W20 after the warranty period", just during warranty.
I would rather experiment while the engine is under warranty, that way if it goes south, the manufacture can fix it instead of me.
This is only the 4th year for the 2014 & newer 0w20 5.3L, so who knows if they will become oil burners in the future.
The average age of these engines and the 0W20 6.2L is 2 years and around 35k miles.
I looked at a 2015 SLT 6.2L max trailer yesterday with 32K miles (52K km) on it.
Summit white,153" wb, but too many bells 'n whistles I'd rather not pay for, and a few options I would rather have instead.
Asking price was $34k USD equivalent in Canadian Tire money.
I'd want what I think is best while under warranty and after it.......... But the safer bet on Bitog is to say use what the mfg. specs, change it when the OLM says so, or refer to the owners manual. That keeps you out of trouble. No comment on what's best a 20 or a 30 grade, thicker, thinner, etc. I made my choice with my new Rubicon while under warranty....
I wasn't going to wait.
Funny nobody ever posts "use 0W20 after the warranty period", just during warranty.
I would rather experiment while the engine is under warranty, that way if it goes south, the manufacture can fix it instead of me.
This is only the 4th year for the 2014 & newer 0w20 5.3L, so who knows if they will become oil burners in the future.
The average age of these engines and the 0W20 6.2L is 2 years and around 35k miles.
I looked at a 2015 SLT 6.2L max trailer yesterday with 32K miles (52K km) on it.
Summit white,153" wb, but too many bells 'n whistles I'd rather not pay for, and a few options I would rather have instead.
Asking price was $34k USD equivalent in Canadian Tire money.
I'd want what I think is best while under warranty and after it.......... But the safer bet on Bitog is to say use what the mfg. specs, change it when the OLM says so, or refer to the owners manual. That keeps you out of trouble. No comment on what's best a 20 or a 30 grade, thicker, thinner, etc. I made my choice with my new Rubicon while under warranty....
There are a few of us here with the L83 engine and I think even a few UOAs. I love mine and have M1 EP 0w20 in it.
Why are people so scared of 0w20 in a truck for crying out loud?!?!?
GM has increased sump capacity to 8.0 quarts and added a variable pressure/displacement oil pump. The truck has VVT and AFM. Why would you even consider a different oil? The entire system is built to maintain the optimal flow/pressure with 0w20 in the sump.
However, this is 'Merica and we are all free to do what we want with our vehicles and oil so have at it.
Why are people so scared of 0w20 in a truck for crying out loud?!?!?
GM has increased sump capacity to 8.0 quarts and added a variable pressure/displacement oil pump. The truck has VVT and AFM. Why would you even consider a different oil? The entire system is built to maintain the optimal flow/pressure with 0w20 in the sump.
However, this is 'Merica and we are all free to do what we want with our vehicles and oil so have at it.
Stay with the 0w20 those engines have a special oil pump and vvt system . Gotta trust the engineers that designed the engine.
I wonder if the engineering department signed off on 0W20 reluctantly kicking and screaming, or did they go peacefully?
Only Sampson's hairdresser knows for sure. The two locations that worry me, are the ring zone & top ring turn around point,
and emission equipment, if the engines start to burn oil a few years into the program.
Each to his or her own, but if and when I buy a new 5.3 or 6.2L, 0w20 will not likely make it past the 1st day.
Only Sampson's hairdresser knows for sure. The two locations that worry me, are the ring zone & top ring turn around point,
and emission equipment, if the engines start to burn oil a few years into the program.
Each to his or her own, but if and when I buy a new 5.3 or 6.2L, 0w20 will not likely make it past the 1st day.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
I would guess they did - but on the other hand it's a proven platform that can go a long way on a number of oils - and the 20's tend to get some formulation TLC the thicker grades don't need ...
5.7L Hemi crossed my mind ...
5.7L Hemi crossed my mind ...
These trucks cost a bloody fortune, take 7 years to pay off, and have close to 300k kms (180K miles) at that point in time.
I don't mind changing oil for my 2 kids and their spouses plus my own truck, but I refuse to buy 200-300 liters of synthetic oil plus filters a year.
So there has to be a viable cost effective alternative for 3 seasons of the year when cold start performance is not a concern.
I found 5W30 conventional engine oils a disaster, so for 3 months of the year I'm stuck using synthetics.
The rest of the year, it's 10W30 HDEO, 15W40, SAE30 or SAE40. Those 4 grades go in everything, sometimes some of each to empty a few pails into one.
I own a socket set if I have to change out an engine or transmission, but I hate chasing engine lights, 02 and N0x sensors.
I don't want to start replacing TWCs or DPFs on a 5 year old car or truck for a few dollars in fuel that thin engine oil claim to save.
I'll just do what works for me and leave 0W20 a mystery.
I don't mind changing oil for my 2 kids and their spouses plus my own truck, but I refuse to buy 200-300 liters of synthetic oil plus filters a year.
So there has to be a viable cost effective alternative for 3 seasons of the year when cold start performance is not a concern.
I found 5W30 conventional engine oils a disaster, so for 3 months of the year I'm stuck using synthetics.
The rest of the year, it's 10W30 HDEO, 15W40, SAE30 or SAE40. Those 4 grades go in everything, sometimes some of each to empty a few pails into one.
I own a socket set if I have to change out an engine or transmission, but I hate chasing engine lights, 02 and N0x sensors.
I don't want to start replacing TWCs or DPFs on a 5 year old car or truck for a few dollars in fuel that thin engine oil claim to save.
I'll just do what works for me and leave 0W20 a mystery.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
The 4.3L V6 truck and 6.2L Corvette has the same AFM system and both are 5W30 engines.
What would happen if you put 5W30 Dexos in a 5.3L, would it blow up?
.
No, but stepping up to a 10w-30 high mileage will create a mushroom cloud
The 4.3L V6 truck and 6.2L Corvette has the same AFM system and both are 5W30 engines.
What would happen if you put 5W30 Dexos in a 5.3L, would it blow up?
.
No, but stepping up to a 10w-30 high mileage will create a mushroom cloud
Using magnatec crossed my mind as well.
Originally Posted By: userfriendly
These trucks cost a bloody fortune, take 7 years to pay off, and have close to 300k kms (180K miles) at that point in time.
I don't mind changing oil for my 2 kids and their spouses plus my own truck, but I refuse to buy 200-300 liters of synthetic oil plus filters a year.
So there has to be a viable cost effective alternative for 3 seasons of the year when cold start performance is not a concern.
I found 5W30 conventional engine oils a disaster, so for 3 months of the year I'm stuck using synthetics.
The rest of the year, it's 10W30 HDEO, 15W40, SAE30 or SAE40. Those 4 grades go in everything, sometimes some of each to empty a few pails into one.
I own a socket set if I have to change out an engine or transmission, but I hate chasing engine lights, 02 and N0x sensors.
I don't want to start replacing TWCs or DPFs on a 5 year old car or truck for a few dollars in fuel that thin engine oil claim to save.
I'll just do what works for me and leave 0W20 a mystery.
Buy a low mileage used truck? There are people who don't drive them all that much. Even 1 year old examples, I have found for significantly less than new, talking mid 20s vs high 30s new comparing apples to apples - I don't shop the luxe trucks. I don't own a truck anymore being that my duty cycle is mainly commuting and driving around in the suburbs, but I still think about it from time to time.
These trucks cost a bloody fortune, take 7 years to pay off, and have close to 300k kms (180K miles) at that point in time.
I don't mind changing oil for my 2 kids and their spouses plus my own truck, but I refuse to buy 200-300 liters of synthetic oil plus filters a year.
So there has to be a viable cost effective alternative for 3 seasons of the year when cold start performance is not a concern.
I found 5W30 conventional engine oils a disaster, so for 3 months of the year I'm stuck using synthetics.
The rest of the year, it's 10W30 HDEO, 15W40, SAE30 or SAE40. Those 4 grades go in everything, sometimes some of each to empty a few pails into one.
I own a socket set if I have to change out an engine or transmission, but I hate chasing engine lights, 02 and N0x sensors.
I don't want to start replacing TWCs or DPFs on a 5 year old car or truck for a few dollars in fuel that thin engine oil claim to save.
I'll just do what works for me and leave 0W20 a mystery.
Buy a low mileage used truck? There are people who don't drive them all that much. Even 1 year old examples, I have found for significantly less than new, talking mid 20s vs high 30s new comparing apples to apples - I don't shop the luxe trucks. I don't own a truck anymore being that my duty cycle is mainly commuting and driving around in the suburbs, but I still think about it from time to time.
Originally Posted By: i_hate_autofraud
Your truck with a late model engine has clearances way tighter then before, so you need the 0W20 Dexos oil.
Worst case you'll do damage running the wrong oil, more so if you tow!
Yesterday's oil of is yesterday's engines, I know, it took a while to adjust for me too!
what clearances? . Compared to 1967 on a completely different block? SBC is gone; these new motors are not SBC. 0.0025" is pretty much as tight a clearance you can spec on MAINS given block distortion and tolerance stackup.
How bout piston to wall? Clearances which are is mainly design and material driven?
Now I gotta go dig up some OLD shop manuals ....
Your truck with a late model engine has clearances way tighter then before, so you need the 0W20 Dexos oil.
Worst case you'll do damage running the wrong oil, more so if you tow!
Yesterday's oil of is yesterday's engines, I know, it took a while to adjust for me too!
what clearances? . Compared to 1967 on a completely different block? SBC is gone; these new motors are not SBC. 0.0025" is pretty much as tight a clearance you can spec on MAINS given block distortion and tolerance stackup.
How bout piston to wall? Clearances which are is mainly design and material driven?
Now I gotta go dig up some OLD shop manuals ....
It's been discussed previously. The DI 5.3s and 6.2s have variable displacement oil pumps. Floor it and watch your oil pressure jump sky high over about 3500rpm. It feeds the bearings adequately at higher speeds/loads. 0W-20 is all you need. Check out the UOA section. GoneFishin has some great reports in his 2014 on Mobil 0W-20 and 0W-30 for the full length of th OLM.
Great info. I looked at a 2017 Silvy 5.3 today, the DI 5.3 ran way quieter than the Pentastar in my JK.
Originally Posted by 04SE
There are a few of us here with the L83 engine and I think even a few UOAs. I love mine and have M1 EP 0w20 in it.
Why are people so scared of 0w20 in a truck for crying out loud?!?!?
GM has increased sump capacity to 8.0 quarts and added a variable pressure/displacement oil pump. The truck has VVT and AFM. Why would you even consider a different oil? The entire system is built to maintain the optimal flow/pressure with 0w20 in the sump.
However, this is 'Merica and we are all free to do what we want with our vehicles and oil so have at it.
Originally Posted by 04SE
There are a few of us here with the L83 engine and I think even a few UOAs. I love mine and have M1 EP 0w20 in it.
Why are people so scared of 0w20 in a truck for crying out loud?!?!?
GM has increased sump capacity to 8.0 quarts and added a variable pressure/displacement oil pump. The truck has VVT and AFM. Why would you even consider a different oil? The entire system is built to maintain the optimal flow/pressure with 0w20 in the sump.
However, this is 'Merica and we are all free to do what we want with our vehicles and oil so have at it.
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