gathermewool
Site Donor 2025
This is all in OP's head.
OP needs to recalibrate his faulty butt-dyno!
OP needs to recalibrate his faulty butt-dyno!
Never using a 40wt oil again!!
- Thread starter yowps3
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In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
I've got case of Amsoil SS 0W20. Roughly 3 oil changes worth. Probably going to jump to 5W30 after that. Seems to be the norm for 1.5LT.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
This whole thread seems like an epic fishing expedition
Troll thread...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by ofelas
The Miramichi has some great salmon fishing.
LMAO!!!
The Miramichi has some great salmon fishing.
LMAO!!!
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
This whole thread seems like an epic fishing expedition
Yep, deep sea fishing.
This whole thread seems like an epic fishing expedition
Yep, deep sea fishing.
I am about to bump from 5w20 to 10W30 high mileage due to small oil leak and hoping it helps. Will see if it makes much difference and let you know.
It's a 2003 Ford Duratec 3.0 in Mercury Sable. Car is new to me with 73,000 miles. Feels nice and zippy around town.
It's a 2003 Ford Duratec 3.0 in Mercury Sable. Car is new to me with 73,000 miles. Feels nice and zippy around town.
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
![[Linked Image]](https://www.kixxaustralia.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/pao-synthetic-engine-oil-kixx-pao1-key-property.jpg "[Linked Image]")
to 5w30
![[Linked Image]](https://www.kixxaustralia.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/petrol-engine-oil-kixx-g1-dexos1-key-property.jpg "[Linked Image]")
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
Last edited:
Not sure whether it's because its an HDEO, but the 0w40 I used over this past winter was spec'd at 15.7 visc@100c
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3467.pdf
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3467.pdf
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
Last edited:
My Hyundai GDI 2.4L engine was more "lively" with the factory fill of 5W20 in it - however due to potential connecting rod bearing issues with this engine I moved up to 5W30 and noticed a bit more drag on the engine than the thinner 5W20 ... It's a trade off I have to live with while I own this vehicle .
Originally Posted by yowps3
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
The reality is that it's neither A3 nor C3.
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
The reality is that it's neither A3 nor C3.
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
I would not put that in any of my vehicles even if someone gave it to me for free.
That is not approved oil and I would bet my left nut that it is not 100% PAO (as they market).
Stick to approved oils (which Kixx is not). My rule of thumb when it comes to ACEA A3/B3 B4 or C3 oils is as long as they have MB229.5 or MB229.51 (C3) approvals, good to go, regardless of grade.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr
In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That is very, very thick 0W40. .
Also, your 5W30 is ILSAC GF-5 oil. It is energy conserving oil. What happened is that your turbo will spool faster. Personally, if I had that engine, I would run away from 5W30 you are using now.
Use oils that have ACEA A3/B3 B4 specification. Oil like Castrol 0W40, or Castrol 0W30, Mobil1 0W40 FS, Shell Helix 5W40 or 0W40 etc.
The 0w40 is Kixx PAO. It used used to be A3 oil. But now it's C3?
https://www.kixxoil.com/product/productview?pdtCode=EN00300&app=
I would not put that in any of my vehicles even if someone gave it to me for free.
That is not approved oil and I would bet my left nut that it is not 100% PAO (as they market).
Stick to approved oils (which Kixx is not). My rule of thumb when it comes to ACEA A3/B3 B4 or C3 oils is as long as they have MB229.5 or MB229.51 (C3) approvals, good to go, regardless of grade.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by yowps3
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by yowps3
Bryanccfshr said:In low output low displacement engines I have felt this when engines are cold, so I am not going to discount the OPs but dyno . Once ithe engine and oil is warmed up it was not detectable though. With more power and displacement the parasitic loss of the cold oil is not detectable. This is probably why the temperature/ viscosity charts should still be referenced.
If anything this slower response let's you know the engine isn't ready to be pushed hard yet. However if the OP does nothing but shorter trips and city driving, ILSAC oils would be a better choice anyway.
The 40 wt is better suited for heavier loading or sustained driving where the oil will spend most of its time fully at operating temperature.
Went from 0W40
to 5w30
Wait, what brand is that 0W40 with such thick KV100? 15.23cst at 100c? That
I would not put that in any of my vehicles even if someone gave it to me for free.
That is not approved oil and I would bet my left nut that it is not 100% PAO (as they market).
Stick to approved oils (which Kixx is not). My rule of thumb when it comes to ACEA A3/B3 B4 or C3 oils is as long as they have MB229.5 or MB229.51 (C3) approvals, good to go, regardless of grade.
A pour point of -54c
Flash point of 232c
Ultra high VI of 186
NOACK 7%
Density kg/L 0.846 the lower the more true synthetic it is.
And you want to dispute the PAO content of it? If anything this oil would rank amongst the best Grp IV / Grp V synthetic oil.
Show me a "synthetic" castrol or any other mainstream brand that can compare to the above characteristic of Kixx PAO1
Besides GS is a big respectable company.
Last edited:
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