Need To Replace AC Compressor - Should I replace Condensor As Well?

[Fitz98]

I need to replace my AC Compressor on my 2003 Suburban.
I did not have a catostrophic failure, but the performance was poor in hot weather. I think partly because of a worn clutch.
If $$$ is not as much of an issue as increasing performance, would it be wise to replace the original factory condensor (Visually looks good still externally), or keep the OE condensor?

 

[nthach]

Do you see any signs of Black Death or shrapnel in the system? Condensers and evaporators are kinda hard to flush, if there’s no debris, you’re OK replacing the compressor + drier.

 

[LazyDog]

The orifice tube is easy to replace too

 

[zzyzzx]

I need to replace my AC Compressor on my 2003 Suburban.
I did not have a catostrophic failure, but the performance was poor in hot weather. I think partly because of a worn clutch.
If $$$ is not as much of an issue as increasing performance, would it be wise to replace the original factory condensor (Visually looks good still externally), or keep the OE condensor?

Is there a higher performance orifice available for your vehicle? I'm specifically referring to the type that produce colder A/C at idle.

 

[zzyzzx]

Should I replace Condensor As Well​

If you see bent fins, unbend them, and clean out any debris for better air flow.

Also make sure that your fans are working as they should.

Also check voltage at idle with the A/C on. I saw a Youtube video where someone installed electric fans on their non-electric fan vehicle and they also did an alternator upgrade for better voltage at idle, so the fans would spin faster, which resulted in better A/C

 

[jetman]

No.
In 2018 I changed the ac compressor (locked up) and accumulator filter drier on a 02 surburban we had. Disconnected all lines and blew a cleaner designed for the job (Autozone) thru the inside of everything.
Put it together with the new parts (Autozone) and could hang meat in it from then on.

 

[Urshurak776]

Should I replace Condensor As Well​

If you see bent fins, unbend them, and clean out any debris for better air flow.

Also make sure that your fans are working as they should.

Also check voltage at idle with the A/C on. I saw a Youtube video where someone installed electric fans on their non-electric fan vehicle and they also did an alternator upgrade for better voltage at idle, so the fans would spin faster, which resulted in better A/C

In some vehicles, a cheaper alternative is to install a big 3 mod, which replaces the cables with heavier guage cable. I have seen that a lot in the car audio industry. An advantage is better performing A/C at idle.

 

[Cujet]

Probably not necessary to replace the condensor. Some Ford products have the dryer integral with the condensor, and do require a long session with the vacuum pump to ensure no moisture remains.

Sometimes a weak AC is related to the blend door foam deteriorating and mixing in a little heat.

 

[zzyzzx]

Sometimes a weak AC is related to the blend door foam deteriorating and mixing in a little heat.

I know for a fact this happened on my car.

 

[Chris142]

if the orifice is clean no need to replace the condenser. You should replace the accumulator too though.

 

[Fitz98]

Should I replace Condensor As Well​

If you see bent fins, unbend them, and clean out any debris for better air flow.

Also make sure that your fans are working as they should.

Also check voltage at idle with the A/C on. I saw a Youtube video where someone installed electric fans on their non-electric fan vehicle and they also did an alternator upgrade for better voltage at idle, so the fans would spin faster, which resulted in better A/C

Funny you say this. I got a replacement AC clutch from an 05 truck in the junk yard (This did not work..separate post about this).
But I noticed that donor vehicle had electric fans but the water pump still had the threaded nut for a conventional fan. The pump looked new, so I thought it was a different pump used for that vehicle, must have been the fan conversion you are referring to. It was a dual fan setup...looked like a good idea, but was scratching my head as to why this was like this on that vehicle.

FWIW, I just replaced my fan clutch with GM Original, so it is working as originally intended.

 

[Fitz98]

I know for a fact this happened on my car.

I can see how this would happen. When replacing my actuators, the foam on the doors I could see was still in tact. Not new, but not deteriorated badly yet. When it blew cold, it blew really cold on 75 degree days. I don't think it was a blending issue, but I did have to replace my fresh air intake actuator, so I was getting outside air blending issues.

 

[Fitz98]

if the orifice is clean no need to replace the condenser. You should replace the accumulator too though.

Thanks,
I guess a good place to start is to recover the existing freon and check the orifice tube.

 

[johnmyster]

Two years ago I did my 2000 Silverado. It was leaking from the service port at a rate that it wouldn't make it through the summer. Compressor also sounded like a box of rocks, so I decided to do it too rather than de minimus.

I replaced the compressor. Did every o-ring on the system. Did the orifice (mine wasn't dirty), dryer, and service port. I flushed two cans of the cleaning solvent through the components and dried with compressed air. Held vacuum on it for a day and recharged. Worked great.

So no, you don't need to replace the condenser. OTOH, a replacement isn't that expensive or hard to swap either.

 

[Chris142]

Two years ago I did my 2000 Silverado. It was leaking from the service port at a rate that it wouldn't make it through the summer. Compressor also sounded like a box of rocks, so I decided to do it too rather than de minimus.

I replaced the compressor. Did every o-ring on the system. Did the orifice (mine wasn't dirty), dryer, and service port. I flushed two cans of the cleaning solvent through the components and dried with compressed air. Held vacuum on it for a day and recharged. Worked great.

So no, you don't need to replace the condenser. OTOH, a replacement isn't that expensive or hard to swap either.

i would keep the oem condenser as long as possible . The afternarket ones often are not as well built.

 

[Chris142]

Funny you say this. I got a replacement AC clutch from an 05 truck in the junk yard (This did not work..separate post about this).
But I noticed that donor vehicle had electric fans but the water pump still had the threaded nut for a conventional fan. The pump looked new, so I thought it was a different pump used for that vehicle, must have been the fan conversion you are referring to. It was a dual fan setup...looked like a good idea, but was scratching my head as to why this was like this on that vehicle.

FWIW, I just replaced my fan clutch with GM Original, so it is working as originally intended.

gm went to electric fans on the 1/2 ton trucks areound 05.

 

[Nick1994]

I’d be willing to bet you just have a bad fan clutch. My grandparents fought this years back with their Trailblazer.

 

[paulo57509]

For reference. Compressor failure evidence on the orifice tube.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

I’d at least change the receiver drier. On some newer cars it’s in the condenser and costs almost what the drier loaded condenser costs.

I’ve never done it, but I’ve seen video of people who charge with propane, run it for a few days, pull the orifice to inspect for debris, and repeat until the screen is clean. Then they use the proper refrigerant. Not sure which lubricants propane is compatible with, so verify before attempting.

 

[Fitz98]

Orifice tube looks pretty clean compared to other pics I have seen. There is a little gunk at the top of the 1st ridge on one side as shown in the 3rd pic.
Is it worth flushing condensor or evaporators?
My main concern is how much oil to add if I only replace compressor and accumulator.
I have no idea of the history before I got the vehicle at 66k miles or if any oil has been added at previous services or if any was removed when the system was evacuated for this project.
I don't have any experience on AC component flushing.