NAPA rotor warp : Anyone experiencing this ?

Have them on the '13 FIT , good so far . Hopefully they'll remain that way . Not so for others . Do have their pads as well .

The biggest issue I've seen is no one cleans the hubs enough when installing new discs/rotors. And then, they don't even use a gauge to measure run-out, making sure the hub and rotor are mating perfectly. They complain later about vibrations. No one ever measures the run-out even when they complain about vibrations. So no diagnosing just complaining and blaming the rotors.. Yes there are junk parts out there but installing the rotors correctly is most important.
 
Coated ( polymer ? ) rotors and pads were replaced by independent service center and purchased from local NAPA . Do break them in properly .
 
Agree w/ @researcher - I think most DIY crying is mis-installation in the majority of cases.

Local NAPA lost my OEM rotors (well, their 3rd-party shop, not NAPA itself) when I took them to be turned. They replaced them with theirs. I wan’t thrilled with that, but after a few years of occasional (e.g. - “whenever I can get away with it) hard use and no issues. I installed them myself, ceramic pad, and did a proper break-in procedure. N=1 here, but no issue at all.
 
Absolutely need to make sure the hubs are free from rust and debris, and also note you should use a good high temp brake grease (or anti seize ) to put on a thin layer to prevent future rust. Over time, rust between the hub and rotor can cause a problem. Also note that thickness variation is probably a bigger problem than warpage due to pad composition and/or environmental conditions.
 
I agree sounds like installation issues, defective brake components or just a terrible driver. Basically all rotors come from the same overseas foundries with just different names on the box so doubt NAPA is to blame and he would prob have the same issue with another brand.
 
Have them on the '13 FIT , good so far . Hopefully they'll remain that way . Not so for others . Do have their pads as well .

Sounds more like pad material buildup on the surface, rather than warped rotors. There is an ASTM (IIRC?) bedding procedure where you get the vehicle going 55-60 and basically do panic stops without triggering ABS down to about 5mph or so (no stopping!) then accelerate back up to speed and do it again about 10 times, and then you drive around for 10-15 minutes to let everything cool without ever stopping with the pads in contact. This gets the brakes and pads scorchingly hot, and is also useful for removing deposits from bad pads as well. My brother who’s been a mechanic for almost 25 years tipped me off to this trick when I thought my rotors had warped. I’ve done this procedure several times on my and friends’ vehicles, and only one of them wasn’t fixed by it, the pads were completely gone.
 
Sounds more like pad material buildup on the surface, rather than warped rotors. There is an ASTM (IIRC?) bedding procedure where you get the vehicle going 55-60 and basically do panic stops without triggering ABS down to about 5mph or so (no stopping!) then accelerate back up to speed and do it again about 10 times, and then you drive around for 10-15 minutes to let everything cool without ever stopping with the pads in contact. This gets the brakes and pads scorchingly hot, and is also useful for removing deposits from bad pads as well. My brother who’s been a mechanic for almost 25 years tipped me off to this trick when I thought my rotors had warped. I’ve done this procedure several times on my and friends’ vehicles, and only one of them wasn’t fixed by it, the pads were completely gone.
Yep - all true. I bed every brake job I do and have saved a few brake rotors from it as well. If you just do a pad slap without proper bedding it is a good chance you will have the shudder in short time due to the old pad deposits.
 
Absolutely need to make sure the hubs are free from rust and debris, and also note you should use a good high temp brake grease (or anti seize ) to put on a thin layer to prevent future rust. Over time, rust between the hub and rotor can cause a problem. Also note that thickness variation is probably a bigger problem than warpage due to pad composition and/or environmental conditions.
I use a spray grease Muscle Grease. It was mentioned on a You Tube video. Maybe South Main Auto.
 
Have them on the '13 FIT , good so far . Hopefully they'll remain that way . Not so for others . Do have their pads as well .

Many aftermarket parts are made like junk these days quality control really has diminished greatly so when purchasing it’s really a luck of the draw. Could have been poor hardening, casting or both. Many diy or weekend warriors may skip steps or not see a flaw in the part and finish their install just to be surprised later down the road. Absolutely a brake job well done is a thorough inspection, thoroughly cleaning all old braking material and road debris off and getting all mating metals thoroughly coated with an anti seize. Coat your pins clean your boots and properly torque all bolts.

Brake kleen and wire brushes both steel and nylon will be your best friend
 
Probably 98% true. If the rotors have been turned (which almost no one does these days) actual warping is possible.
All the brake manufacturers do not agree with you. If you cut the rotors you remove thermal mass, if you are still using the same pads you'll end up with the same issue all over again but easier.
 
All the brake manufacturers do not agree with you. If you cut the rotors you remove thermal mass, if you are still using the same pads you'll end up with the same issue all over again but easier.
I would always suggest replacing the pads. I thought when people turned rotors it was part of a brake job but less expensive that new rotors.

I would not suggest someone just turning the rotors to try and eliminate vibration or pulsing when braking.
 
I remember the good old days of solid rotors . Would have them turned and shaved ( if needed ) in time .
 
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