My Saab 9-5 loves MMO...

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When I put MMO (4oz/10gal) into my 2004 9-5 I get an immediate 10% mpg boost. From high 20's to low 30's highway mpg...happens everytime I use it. It's my wife's DD so I only use it occasionally. MMO only goes in it when I use it. Car was bought new, has 150,000+ miles on it.

I'm thinking about starting to use MMO full time on the car. Will 2-stroke TW3 (2oz/10gal) probably have the same result? But just be a little cheaper to use?
 
Originally Posted By: Foch
When I put MMO (4oz/10gal) into my 2004 9-5 I get an immediate 10% mpg boost. From high 20's to low 30's highway mpg...happens everytime I use it. It's my wife's DD so I only use it occasionally. MMO only goes in it when I use it. Car was bought new, has 150,000+ miles on it. I'm thinking about starting to use MMO full time on the car. Will 2-stroke TW3 (2oz/10gal) probably have the same result? But just be a little cheaper to use?


No experience with TW3. The forumlation of TW3 is quite different than MMO. If you look around, you can find MMO pretty cheap. A chain called Menards in our area has it cheaper than just about anybody. Look at farmers' and tractor supplie stores and similar places.

Many years ago, a part-time Army job took me by several area high schools with auto shops. At the time, I was driving an MGB-GT - straight-4 cast-iron OHV engine, upright, very accessible spark plugs. I had a Marvel inverse oiler mounted in the vehicle that was putting MMO into the engine at the rate of ~1 quart per 1000 miles (works out to ~1 quart per 40 gallons of fuel). The hose from the oiler (1/4" reinforced fuel line) went to a Tee - then down into the intake streams, just behind two side-draft SU carburetors. Typical engine cylinder pressures were in the ~165-170 psi range.

On several occasions, a shop teacher (who knew about MMO and inverse oilers) demonstrated the following to a class: You could measure the engine compression. Next, you could block the oiler (pinch the hose - see that it stopped dripping). Drive the vehicle around the block. Measure engine compression and it would drop ~6-8 pounds per cylinder. Finally, you could reverse these steps: unblock the oiler hose, drive the vehicle around the block again, measure the cylinder pressures again and they would be up again. If you work through the numbers, the increased cylinder pressures simply meant more power or greater efficiency. Your vehicle is behaving in the same way.

My B-GT originally came with a smog pump (a truly bad idea) and it had a voracious appetite for exhaust valves - which is why I put an inverse oiler on in the first place. A grizzled old machinest in Sparta, Wisconsin knew about oilers and, after rebuilding my cylinder head at 20,000 miles, said that I really needed one. He was right, for more reasons than he knew.
 
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
is this ECU calculated or you filling up at the pump with a calculator?



Both
 
No experience with TW3. The forumlation of TW3 is quite different than MMO. If you look around, you can find MMO pretty cheap. A chain called Menards in our area has it cheaper than just about anybody. Look at farmers' and tractor supplie stores and similar places.

Many years ago, a part-time Army job took me by several area high schools with auto shops. At the time, I was driving an MGB-GT - straight-4 cast-iron OHV engine, upright, very accessible spark plugs. I had a Marvel inverse oiler mounted in the vehicle that was putting MMO into the engine at the rate of ~1 quart per 1000 miles (works out to ~1 quart per 40 gallons of fuel). The hose from the oiler (1/4" reinforced fuel line) went to a Tee - then down into the intake streams, just behind two side-draft SU carburetors. Typical engine cylinder pressures were in the ~165-170 psi range.

On several occasions, a shop teacher (who knew about MMO and inverse oilers) demonstrated the following to a class: You could measure the engine compression. Next, you could block the oiler (pinch the hose - see that it stopped dripping). Drive the vehicle around the block. Measure engine compression and it would drop ~6-8 pounds per cylinder. Finally, you could reverse these steps: unblock the oiler hose, drive the vehicle around the block again, measure the cylinder pressures again and they would be up again. If you work through the numbers, the increased cylinder pressures simply meant more power or greater efficiency. Your vehicle is behaving in the same way.

My B-GT originally came with a smog pump (a truly bad idea) and it had a voracious appetite for exhaust valves - which is why I put an inverse oiler on in the first place. A grizzled old machinest in Sparta, Wisconsin knew about oilers and, after rebuilding my cylinder head at 20,000 miles, said that I really needed one. He was right, for more reasons than he knew. [/quote]

Thank you for the reply and information...
 
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