Motorcraft semi-syn 5w30, 10,374miles, Sequoia V8

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No heaters. Vehicle lives near Dallas.


I was trying to reason the lower numbers. Makes a bit more sense now.
 
Interesting to see the oil pushed that far. 2UZ wins again.

There is a great UOA on here of a Sequoia, 16K city miles on M1 EP.

My 2UZ-FE is 6.6 qts w/filter change.
 
What is the harm in continuing this same interval with this oil? Blackstone recommended trying 11k based on the remaining TBN and the historical UOA's. How would that be bad for this motor?
 
Originally Posted By: GMZ
Interesting to see the oil pushed that far. 2UZ wins again.

There is a great UOA on here of a Sequoia, 16K city miles on M1 EP.

My 2UZ-FE is 6.6 qts w/filter change.


I use an oversized filter on my Tundra (Wix 51515/MC FL1A) to bump the oil capacity to 7 qts.

OP could use an oversized filter.
 
The NP Gold I have on is the 1516. It specs a 1515. My sump has always taken 7.5 quarts to fill mark. The Denso's I was running were [censored] made. It used to be factory oem stock. At least my Lexus, Sequoia and 4 runner came with them. I will say my oil at draining has never been black in this motor running Denso's, if that means anything.
 
.4 % insolubles. Wouldnt go over 10K. I bet a semi-syn (which is just conventional) does better than a syn for 1Ok.
 
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Nasty? Please explain. The sample didn't "look" nasty. It still wasn't black! Then again, maybe the color of sump oil is meaningless. No one answered my last question. And therein lies the answer???
 
I do not know if it would be bad. Its only another 700 or so miles. But I also do not know if it would be worthwhile. You did get your money's worth out of this fill.
 
Looks to me like the OP got his money's worth, and ended up right where he should.

Wear looks reasonable for 10k miles; TBN just about used up; contaminants not outrageous (silicon conversation acknowledged).

I'd say 10k miles is spot on, if he can repeat with some consistency.

The "best" approach would be to repeat the cycle several times; same brand/vis of oil, same filters, same duration, etc. Track the ranges and trends; see if the results can statistically become viable. If so, then he's actually used his noodle, balancing his wallet and his vehicle maintenance plan to the perfect point.

Unfortunately, as a BITOGer, he'll end up tinkering with success, as our natural tendency is to mess with what works, because we can't leave well enough alone ...
 
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Originally Posted By: theophile
Nasty? Please explain.
I think AJ was referring to the comment above saying,
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I bet a semi-syn (which is just conventional) does better than a syn for 1Ok.

I don't know about that but, though I've never done a UOA with the MC syn blend, I've used the 5W20 on a 01 Civic since new and considered it a very good oil. Your report goes a long way towards confirming my belief.

It may (or may not) be "just a conventional" IDK, but it's a darn good dino and seems to live up to the only standard conventional dino that uses the term syn-blend right on the bottle. Add to that, the great everyday price at Wally, and you have a great value. Just wish they would make jugs in weights other than the 5w20.

I do agree with others that 10k seems to be the sweet spot for your vehicle and MC, at the great value, not much to be gained by pushing it. Thanks for posting.
 
I haven't been able to get my last report posted in it's entirety. Otherwise the board could see 4 UOA's with this combo at increasing intervals. Wear numbers are very similar to the one above. Alas, the more I read here the more tempted I am to stick M1 EP and go 15-20k. Yes, maybe what I'm doing now is a good value. Well, if the oil is twice the price (ie M1 EP) and so is the interval (20k vs 10k)....then less time I spend on maintenance without any additional risk to the motor? And whatever benefit, real or otherwise, running a full syn would bring to the table would also be realized. Assuming I go that route, what viscosity? Swap filter halfway through the interval? Timewise, 20k would be around 16 months.
 
Napa Gold or Purolator Pure One oil filter, PP 10w30 for no more than 10k miles. UOA it on after the second OCI.

Try Terry Dyson for a UOA. The depth of his analysis will really tell you what that oil and your engine is doing. Good luck.
 
Not interested in using a synthetic for only 10k. My curiosity is not that great. I am interested in not changing oil as much and not wasting $$$$. So the best value syn for 15k or 20k OCI? M1 ep 5w30? 0w40? Can someone tell me specifically what Dyson provides that Blackstone doesn't and for how much? Thanks.
 
For the battery of tests that Terry performs, his service is a bargain. The same testing (which some could not be done) from Blackstone, the cost would be much more. He's $100 now. Very keen insight (not the best term) "into" what's going on. He's pulled quite a few surprises on me where he's said something ..almost intuitively (that is, appearing to see something he couldn't quite articulate at the moment) and have it turn up later on. He pondered that a fuel reading in Bruce's 0w-10 might not be fuel ..but some aromatic in the blend. It later disappeared from the next analysis confirming his suspicion. Other tells on fuel were not present.

I could not afford to use him on this round with my 0w-10 testing, but it was basically a rehash of previous data. I'll save for the extended drain (7-10k) testing.

You can get your scale of economy. As (I think) I said (might not have) one year is doable in your sleep. 16-18 months would be required for you to reach your 20k goal ..or so I reason. I think it will require an oil with a stout TBN at the onset.
 
Does that oil go through a hose any place? I ask because my 1986 Toyota 4Runner came from the factory with silicone house's under the hood. I think they only did it that year because i never came across another one quite like it! Mine was built at the Landcrusier plant though when they had a fire in the plant that was originally set up to build the 4Runner. Once they fixed the plant they went back to making them their. I noticed that mine had different brake rotor's, different hub's and bearings and slightly different axle's etc.....Even my local Toyota dealership would get the wrong parts for me unless I gave them the date of manufacture and the vin. Mine even had different wells right patern but completely different wells my wheels where true magnesium wheels!Even some of the under hood parts where different. I always got the wrong parts from dealerships and parts stores on a lot of common items unless I took the date and vin with me.

It was a Toyota Regional Service rep that told me that mine had been built at the Landcruiser plant after production started and a fire broke out in the plant.... So they basicly took all the production parts they had that where good then took parts from other markets to finsih hand building these ones until they got the plant back up.

So if Toyota is passing this oil through a silicone hose some place it wouldeasily pick up silicone like made. Normaly in Domestic vechiles Police models like Interceptors will use silicone hose's!
 
Originally Posted By: theophile
Thanks for the reply, Gary. So, which OTC synthetics for 20K in this app?


For OTC ..I'd probably go with M1 in the EP line. Their 15k rhetoric has some fudge factor in it. I'd say some HDEO synth, but you'll never find it in a lower viscosity. I would probably just go one year at first and do another UOA.
 
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