Motor Oil For Vintage Air Cooled Triumph Motorcycle?

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Sep 23, 2020
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With concerns over reduced zinc and phosphorous levels in current motor oils, what would be conventional (non-syn) motor oils recommended for our vintage, air cooled, flat tappet cam Brit bike in 20W50 weight?

One option I came across is Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil (blue bottle).
Another might be Penngrade 1 V2 4 stroke motorcycle oil, but I can't find specs on the zinc and phosphorous quantities.

I'd like to find something that doesn't need zddp to be added to it.
 
I'd use Valvoline, which will undoubtably have the correct amount of zinc and phosphorous. No need to worry on its amount or to add any additive to boost it. Penngrade will work fine, too and there is no need to play county auditor looking for its zinc and phosphorous levels.
 
Valvoline VR-1 for an auto oil...I'm sure their M/C oil is also fine. Is the Triumph a shared sump or older model? Penngrade is probably a safe bet given the info on their website.

Pic please!
 
I'd use Valvoline, which will undoubtably have the correct amount of zinc and phosphorous. No need to worry on its amount or to add any additive to boost it. Penngrade will work fine, too and there is no need to play county auditor looking for itbecas zinc and phosphorous levels.
Thanks for the input.
I have used the Valvoline.
Disagree about the "county auditor" comment though. Not risking my engine for lack of technical information.
Valvoline VR-1 for an auto oil...I'm sure their M/C oil is also fine. Is the Triumph a shared sump or older model? Penngrade is probably a safe bet given the info on their website.

Pic please!
Yes, the VR-1 warns not to use it with a wet clutch, which I have, so I crossed that off the list. There is always trouble enough with the old Brit clutches as it is.
 
Need to know more info

Traditionally Triumphs were 3 holes, but in 1969 for the 1970 650 twins, the engine and primary were made common by omitting the drive side crank oil seal, drilling 3 small holes in the crankcase for oil return and primary level and relocating the breather.to behind the top of the clutch assy, through a valve to a large dia pipe which tee'd off to the oil tank and exited through a long pipe clipped to the lower portion of the left hand of the rear mudguard

HTH, Bonnie John
 
Need to know more info

Traditionally Triumphs were 3 holes, but in 1969 for the 1970 650 twins, the engine and primary were made common by omitting the drive side crank oil seal, drilling 3 small holes in the crankcase for oil return and primary level and relocating the breather.to behind the top of the clutch assy, through a valve to a large dia pipe which tee'd off to the oil tank and exited through a long pipe clipped to the lower portion of the left hand of the rear mudguard

HTH, Bonnie John
You are a bit early. I'm talking about 750 OIF models in the '70s.
The clutch shares engine oil in the primary case.
 
We have a brand called Penrite which offers quite a range for specialised and classic/vintage vehicles

I know it can be bought in many countries, not sure if it's available in yr neck of the woods

One of their products which may be of interest is HPR 30, a 20w60 mineral oil, sm/cf, non friction modified, 1600 ppm zinc etc

Quite popular here for both old bikes and cars
 
To wrap up, M1 15W-50, VR1 20W-50, Delvac MX 15W-40, Delvac Extreme 15W-40 and Rotella 15W-40 are all equally robust with more than enough Zn, so it comes back to your taste and the price tag.
 
Need to know more info

Traditionally Triumphs were 3 holes, but in 1969 for the 1970 650 twins, the engine and primary were made common by omitting the drive side crank oil seal, drilling 3 small holes in the crankcase for oil return and primary level and relocating the breather.to behind the top of the clutch assy, through a valve to a large dia pipe which tee'd off to the oil tank and exited through a long pipe clipped to the lower portion of the left hand of the rear mudguard

HTH, Bonnie John
This guy Triumph's.
 
To wrap up, M1 15W-50, VR1 20W-50, Delvac MX 15W-40, Delvac Extreme 15W-40 and Rotella 15W-40 are all equally robust with more than enough Zn, so it comes back to your taste and the price tag.
I'll take a look but M1 is definately out. Synthetic in vintage vehicle talk fooled me twice but never again.
 
T/y Imp4
The reason i know this is coz i bought a "70 in "79. Learned it inside out. It was a revelation after suffering a 69, 70 and 71 bsa lightnings, all 2nd hand, all 3rd rate
Still got the bonneville, keeps company with 2 bsa rocket 3's, a 750 norton desert sled, a 92 fatboy i bought brand new after seeing Terminatot 2 and a 2016 Softail Slim S, also new, bought when another purchase (family deal) fell through
I love my quirky old poms and yanks. I mean you have to, they are so anachronistic
 
We have a brand called Penrite which offers quite a range for specialised and classic/vintage vehicles

I know it can be bought in many countries, not sure if it's available in yr neck of the woods

One of their products which may be of interest is HPR 30, a 20w60 mineral oil, sm/cf, non friction modified, 1600 ppm zinc etc

Quite popular here for both old bikes and cars
Thanks.
60 weight is definitely out of the question for old knees.
T/y Imp4
The reason i know this is coz i bought a "70 in "79. Learned it inside out. It was a revelation after suffering a 69, 70 and 71 bsa lightnings, all 2nd hand, all 3rd rate
Still got the bonneville, keeps company with 2 bsa rocket 3's, a 750 norton desert sled, a 92 fatboy i bought brand new after seeing Terminatot 2 and a 2016 Softail Slim S, also new, bought when another purchase (family deal) fell through
I love my quirky old poms and yanks. I mean you have to, they are so anachronistic
But the Lightenings were the sharpest looking bikes.
 
With concerns over reduced zinc and phosphorous levels in current motor oils, what would be conventional (non-syn) motor oils recommended for our vintage, air cooled, flat tappet cam Brit bike in 20W50 weight?

Understanding Zinc...

Thanks to BITOG data I think we finding the single most common
misunderstanding about motor oil is that higher zinc levels provide
greater wear protection. fact is more zinc provides longer wear protection...
but thats a moot point given the short oil change intervals owners
favor...

Zinc is not even a lubricant until heat and load are applied. Zinc is
only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine.
At that point zinc must react with the heat and load to create the
sacrificial film that allows it to protect flat-tappet camshafts and
other highly loaded engine parts.

Quote 540Rat

So, modern low zinc oils CAN BE USED SAFELY with flat tappet cam
setups, even in engines with radical cams and high spring pressures.
Simply choose from the higher ranked oils on the list at the end of
this write-up, and you’ll be good to go. I know people who’ve been
using modern low zinc oils in High Performance flat tappet set-ups for
a long time, and they’ve had no issue at all.

Zinc is used/sacrificed in very small quantities at time, so the total
amount present in your oil does not change how much wear protection
the oil provides, as long as you don’t run out of zinc. “Lab Testing”
and “Wear Testing” analysis proves/confirms that more zinc provides
LONGER wear protection, NOT MORE wear protection.

To make a informed decision like an expert you have to understand that
additives like Zinc and Phosphorous are used/sacrificed in very small
quantities over time, so the total amount present in your oil does not
change how much wear protection the oil provides, as long as you don’t
run out of additives “Lab Testing” and “Wear Testing” analysis
proves/confirms that more additives provides LONGER wear protection,
NOT MORE wear protection... just follow the oil change interval
tested and approved by Yamaha's engineers and your prized R1 should
meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

Zinc is used as an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive. But, zinc
“DOES NOT” build-up over time like some type of plating process. For
those who have actually taken an engine apart that has been running
high zinc oil, you know that you don’t find a build-up of zinc that
looks like some sort of coating or sludge build-up. Zinc does NOT work
that way. And zinc is not even a lubricant until heat and load are
applied. Zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact
in the engine. At that point zinc must react with the heat and load to
create the sacrificial film that allows it to protect flat-tappet
camshafts and other highly loaded engine parts.

More from Flat Tappet know it alls...

1. Well known and respected Engineer and Tech Author David Vizard,
whose own test data, largely based on real world engine dyno testing,
has concluded that more zinc in motor oil can be damaging, more zinc
does NOT provide todays best wear protection, and that using zinc as
the primary anti-wear component, is outdated technology.

2. The GM Oil Report titled, Oil Myths from GM Techlink, concluded
that high levels of zinc are damaging and that more zinc does NOT
provide more wear protection.

3. A motor oil research article written by Ed Hackett titled, More
than you ever wanted to know about Motor Oil, concluded that more
zinc does NOT provide more wear protection, it only provides longer
wear protection.

4. This from the Brad Penn Oil Company: There is such a thing as too
much ZDDP. ZDDP is surface aggressive, and too much can be a
detriment. ZDDP fights for the surface, blocking other additive
performance. Acids generated due to excessive ZDDP contact will
tie-up detergents thus encouraging corrosive wear. ZDDP
effectiveness plateaus, more does NOT translate into more protection.
Only so much is utilized. We dont need to saturate our oil with ZDDP.

What about no zinc oils???

As you know most aircraft piston engines are air-cooled, so they tend
to run hot and due to this, they require the use of an ashless oil.
That simply means that when the oil burns, it must burn completely and
not leave any ash behind. Aircraft engines are mostly flat-tappet
engines and they will last 2000 hrs TBO (Time Before Overall) without any ZDDP...
 
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