ye that i remember from my 550whp sti days,it was 15 years ago and was a blast,even back then that whp killed head gaskets all the time today 550whp is nothing for an sti.today im married,2kids,house and a mazda but sill got to know everything is spot on with my ride.
moly for quiet ride
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Originally Posted by avi1777
ye that i remember from my 550whp sti days,it was 15 years ago and was a blast,even tho back then that whp killed head gaskets all the time today 550whp is nothing for an sti.today im married,2kids,house and a mazda but sill got to know everything is spot on with my ride.
ye that i remember from my 550whp sti days,it was 15 years ago and was a blast,even tho back then that whp killed head gaskets all the time today 550whp is nothing for an sti.today im married,2kids,house and a mazda but sill got to know everything is spot on with my ride.
Originally Posted by avi1777
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by avi1777
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought that you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
not at all ive been using only m1 for the past 5.5years in my cts,besides the last couple of times that i used redline,i think this time with the mazda im going to go valvoline synpower or m1 ep.
Originally Posted by avi1777
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought that you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
not at all ive been using only m1 for the past 5.5years in my cts,besides the last couple of times that i used redline,i think this time with the mazda im going to go valvoline synpower or m1 ep.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Valvoline Advanced 5w30 (in USA market) says the Noack is 9.3%. Probably the same stuff you see over there (SynPower, which is what Advanced use to be called). It's also dexos1 Gen2 SN Plus rated, and has HTHS of 3.2. All the good stuff, and has some Moly in the formulation. Just try some and see how it works, that's the only way you're going to see - all the advice here just goes in circles after awhile.
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
It's great that this info is shared freely online for the Valvoline oils!
I also found recently that Warren is very open with info on their MAG 1 oils, which might also be useful for ST and amazonbasics oils depending upon the grade involved.
I'm thinking hard about running Valvoline AFS 5W30 this summer, but am also thinking about trying M1 10W30 HM now that it is SN+ (Noack loss unknown for that one, unfortunately).
Valvoline Advanced 5w30 (in USA market) says the Noack is 9.3%. Probably the same stuff you see over there (SynPower, which is what Advanced use to be called). It's also dexos1 Gen2 SN Plus rated, and has HTHS of 3.2. All the good stuff, and has some Moly in the formulation. Just try some and see how it works, that's the only way you're going to see - all the advice here just goes in circles after awhile.
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/3aa410a1-0bbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
It's great that this info is shared freely online for the Valvoline oils!
I also found recently that Warren is very open with info on their MAG 1 oils, which might also be useful for ST and amazonbasics oils depending upon the grade involved.
I'm thinking hard about running Valvoline AFS 5W30 this summer, but am also thinking about trying M1 10W30 HM now that it is SN+ (Noack loss unknown for that one, unfortunately).
M1 EP is very good.
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by avi1777
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought that you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
not at all ive been using only m1 for the past 5.5years in my cts,besides the last couple of times that i used redline,i think this time with the mazda im going to go valvoline synpower or m1 ep.
I get the lowest oil consumption (refer to Gokhan's definition) with M1 EP and PP in our Hyundai Tuscon (2.4L gdi). It hardly uses any oil. I can let it go for the entire oci without adding any oil but I do add since I like to be at the full mark.
Interesting thing is that the car uses more oil with dino. Maybe much higher noack!
I don't think one or two percentages of Noack up or down makes huge difference in the big picture. I don't chase %6 Noack and stay away from %15.
Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by avi1777
i do appreciate your comment but why am i here if not to learn..tnx a lot guys i do appreciate your time and effort.
Sometimes people take it the wrong way. They thought that you were attacking Mobil 1 for making false claims...
not at all ive been using only m1 for the past 5.5years in my cts,besides the last couple of times that i used redline,i think this time with the mazda im going to go valvoline synpower or m1 ep.
I get the lowest oil consumption (refer to Gokhan's definition) with M1 EP and PP in our Hyundai Tuscon (2.4L gdi). It hardly uses any oil. I can let it go for the entire oci without adding any oil but I do add since I like to be at the full mark.
Interesting thing is that the car uses more oil with dino. Maybe much higher noack!
I don't think one or two percentages of Noack up or down makes huge difference in the big picture. I don't chase %6 Noack and stay away from %15.
Originally Posted by Bill_W
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
I think you will find that is a old analysis. It has changed quite a bit with just over 100ppm of Moly in the SN version.
Moly is not the end all to be all.
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
I think you will find that is a old analysis. It has changed quite a bit with just over 100ppm of Moly in the SN version.
Moly is not the end all to be all.
Originally Posted by Bill_W
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
Its formulation keeps changing. The one I used had the same © 2015 on the bottle as the one on the PQIA site with 787 ppm moly, magnesium, and apparently a GTL base oil, but my UOA showed no magnesium and only 93 ppm moly -- probably still the old Group III SN formulation. No one knows what the formulation of the latest batch is.
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
Its formulation keeps changing. The one I used had the same © 2015 on the bottle as the one on the PQIA site with 787 ppm moly, magnesium, and apparently a GTL base oil, but my UOA showed no magnesium and only 93 ppm moly -- probably still the old Group III SN formulation. No one knows what the formulation of the latest batch is.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by Bill_W
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
Its formulation keeps changing. The one I used had the same © 2015 on the bottle as the one on the PQIA site with 787 ppm moly, magnesium, and apparently a GTL base oil, but my UOA showed no magnesium and only 93 ppm moly -- probably still the old Group III SN formulation. No one knows what the formulation of the latest batch is.
It might depend on who makes it. Mobil makes TGMO for the No America domestic market. Idemitsu makes it for Asia. It's possible that some of the Idemitsu product gets imported. The other possibility is that Mobil transitioned to the TN moly but the other formulation was still in the distribution pipeline.
I've seen both of those analysis and it is confusing. This is the only explanation I can think of.
I wish each analysis that PQIA does would include the manufacture date rather than purchase date.
Originally Posted by Bill_W
Genuine Toyota Synthetic has 787 ppm of moly and is made by Mobil.
Its formulation keeps changing. The one I used had the same © 2015 on the bottle as the one on the PQIA site with 787 ppm moly, magnesium, and apparently a GTL base oil, but my UOA showed no magnesium and only 93 ppm moly -- probably still the old Group III SN formulation. No one knows what the formulation of the latest batch is.
It might depend on who makes it. Mobil makes TGMO for the No America domestic market. Idemitsu makes it for Asia. It's possible that some of the Idemitsu product gets imported. The other possibility is that Mobil transitioned to the TN moly but the other formulation was still in the distribution pipeline.
I've seen both of those analysis and it is confusing. This is the only explanation I can think of.
I wish each analysis that PQIA does would include the manufacture date rather than purchase date.
Exxon Mobil is currently (since the October 2010 SN/GF-5 transition) the exclusive distributor of all TGMO SAE viscosity grades in the US. In any case, you can easily tell from the bottle with the Exxon Mobil QR codes, bottle shape, even explicit wordings, etc.
Exxon Mobil always used Infineum trinuclear moly in TGMO 0W-20 SN except for that high-moly batch on PQIA, which used Vanderbilt Molyvan.
Unfortunately, usually, the date codes on the bottles are hard to decipher.
Exxon Mobil always used Infineum trinuclear moly in TGMO 0W-20 SN except for that high-moly batch on PQIA, which used Vanderbilt Molyvan.
Unfortunately, usually, the date codes on the bottles are hard to decipher.
Originally Posted by Gokhan
In a healthy engine, oil evaporation is only about 1/3 of the total oil consumption.
Even that might be very generous, given what some OEMs consider "normal" usage. Back in the day, there were taxis that used no oil between oil changes, or very little, and Noack numbers were far from stellar in some of those multigrades back then.
In a healthy engine, oil evaporation is only about 1/3 of the total oil consumption.
Even that might be very generous, given what some OEMs consider "normal" usage. Back in the day, there were taxis that used no oil between oil changes, or very little, and Noack numbers were far from stellar in some of those multigrades back then.
Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by Gokhan
In a healthy engine, oil evaporation is only about 1/3 of the total oil consumption.
Even that might be very generous, given what some OEMs consider "normal" usage. Back in the day, there were taxis that used no oil between oil changes, or very little, and Noack numbers were far from stellar in some of those multigrades back then.
Good point. I have and had old cars that didn't burn any oil with dino. I assume with high noack. maybe fuel dilution and water helps the balance!
Originally Posted by Gokhan
In a healthy engine, oil evaporation is only about 1/3 of the total oil consumption.
Even that might be very generous, given what some OEMs consider "normal" usage. Back in the day, there were taxis that used no oil between oil changes, or very little, and Noack numbers were far from stellar in some of those multigrades back then.
Good point. I have and had old cars that didn't burn any oil with dino. I assume with high noack. maybe fuel dilution and water helps the balance!
No, In my 2018 Mazda 3 skyactive, I have only used Mazda oil made for skyactive. If I was not using that, I would probably buy the Idemitsu oil that is pretty much the same thing. If not for that, I would probably try valvoline 0w20 or Castrol 0w20.
Yes in my older Mazdas All mobil 1 burns off at a higher rate whether it be EP or not. Valvoline tends to have the least burn at around 1 quart per 2k miles compared to castrol that is slightly higher and M1 that tends to do around 1 quart per 1k miles.
Yes in my older Mazdas All mobil 1 burns off at a higher rate whether it be EP or not. Valvoline tends to have the least burn at around 1 quart per 2k miles compared to castrol that is slightly higher and M1 that tends to do around 1 quart per 1k miles.
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Good point. I have and had old cars that didn't burn any oil with dino. I assume with high noack. maybe fuel dilution and water helps the balance!
I thought of that, but the taxis ran on LPG and almost never got shut off, so no condensation and no gasoline in the oil.
Good point. I have and had old cars that didn't burn any oil with dino. I assume with high noack. maybe fuel dilution and water helps the balance!
I thought of that, but the taxis ran on LPG and almost never got shut off, so no condensation and no gasoline in the oil.
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